Kabwe's aka Bam's build

[VDOG]

What is Slicksand?

[hotrod1]

And why you love it so much?

[fabguy]

Oh man, that firewall looks sweet.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by VDOG

What is Slicksand?

http://www.eastwood.com/slick-sand-gallon.html

There, now Bam won't chime in and jump all over your ass - like he usually does!

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by VDOG

What is Slicksand?

Originally Posted by hotrod1

And why you love it so much?

Slicksand is a polyester primer that goes on thick way thicker than 2k primer or even high fill primer. Its like spraying a nice thin coat of filler over a panel. Its really great for getting a panel straight. You block it and most of it will end up on the floor just like filler. There are other polyester primers out there I've used slicksand and pcl poly primer. I like slicksand a little better because it gets lighter as you sand it which is like having a guide coat built in.

It goes on top of epoxy primer and should not be used in place of epoxy primer which provides your corrosion protection. Its just a filler primer.

Also thanks fabguy.

Dan I only give Vdog dog a hard time because he is a buddy of mine.

[hotrod1]

looks like I will use it as well. Thanks.

[Low Elco]

Slicksand is proof that God loves us and wants to have laser-straight panels on our hotrods.

If you don't need quite as much fill, Featherfill G2 is the same stuff from the same people, just not quite as thick, and it lays down a wee bit better.

Keep it up, Kab~!

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by hotrod1

looks like I will use it as well. Thanks.

The mixing will confuse you but its easy once I figured it out. For every 32 ounces you only need to use 1/4 of the hardener tube they give you.

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Slicksand is proof that God loves us and wants to have laser-straight panels on our hotrods.

If you don't need quite as much fill, Featherfill G2 is the same stuff from the same people, just not quite as thick, and it lays down a wee bit better.

Keep it up, Kab~!

Thanks for bringing that up. Slicksand is thick thats why I like it most of it will be on the floor anyway. That said slicksand lays down really good with a 2.2 tip. That is unthinned by the way. Your typical 2k primer and high fill primer uses a 1.7 or 1.8 tip that gives you an idea of how thick it is. Also I have noticed no problems with shrinkage with slicksand, at least no more shrinkage than any other primer that is.

[Low Elco]

I also throw a splash (like you're mixing drinks) of lacquer thinner in it. Helps it move through a 1.8 tip, and lays out nicer.

Damn, I need a cannon with a 2.2 tip.

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

I also throw a splash (like you're mixing drinks) of lacquer thinner in it. Helps it move through a 1.8 tip, and lays out nicer.

Damn, I need a cannon with a 2.2 tip.

LOL. Yeah you got that right its a hose.lol

Thinning it is cool, but I shoot it straight out the can no thinner used with a 2.2 tip and it lays down nice. Here is a shot of a fender in slick sand shot that way. The light spots is were I started sanding and you can see how it acts as a guide coat. I only use that build in guide coat for the first round of sanding after that I use the 3m dry guide coat.

[Low Elco]

That 3m dry guide is the bomb! I was tired of breaking nozzles (*^$#$^&*!) off new cans of SEM guide coat. Your work looks great.

This has been, "Moment with bodywork geeks." Now back to your regular programming.

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

That 3m dry guide is the bomb! I was tired of breaking nozzles (*^$#$^&*!) off new cans of SEM guide coat. Your work looks great.

You got that right dry guide coat is another product that I love. Its cool we've had the conversation because others may want to look into these products. There is another dry guide coat out there Mirka Dry Guide coat. I have not used it but I'd bet its basically the same thing and it may be a little cheaper. They sure make life easier.

[Low Elco]

Hell, look in The Astronaut's f-100 thread in Alt. tinkerings. He makes his own dry rub from graphite or something for next to nothing. You think you're obsessive, go check that out. Boy got mad skillz with a Z!

I...can do that...but no. Too many years in production. I've said before, with just a little caution and knowing where to really concentrate, 80-85% of the work will have 95-98% of folks raving about your ride. That last 20 is the hardest and most backbreaking, to please those 2%. But those are the people whose opinions matter the most when you hear them. Plus wherever your personal level of satisfaction may lie.

I've enjoyed the convo as well. Be well, and keep up the good work.

[Kim57]

Looking real nice Bam.
Kim

[FarmerSid]

Does that ever look straight. How thick do you think the filler is when it is done?

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Does that ever look straight. How thick do you think the filler is when it is done?

That depends on how well you did your body work. I use very little filler and hammer and dolly the best I can. I shoot for getting the metal within a 1/16 of an inch before I use regular filler. Slicksand does not take the place of regular filler work. It is to fill small imperfections in the panel. Why I like it is because you can block the heck out of it and really get a panel straight. You use it the same as you would use a 2k primer surfacers because that is what it is a primer surfacer or as some people say a sanding primer.

Oh I forget to mention another reason I like it so much, it sands really easy.

[JML55]

I'm still not getting much truck time lately I hope that changes soon.


Cool work men, well i got over 10 years working on mine

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

......Dan I only give Vdog dog a hard time because he is a buddy of mine.

I know, that's why I said it. If I thought you'd REALLY jump someone seriously I wouldn't be a friend-you've-never-met.

As I tell guys I work with, if I didn't like you, I'd ignore you. It's the guys you like you give a hard time and they give it right back to you. Well, at least that's the way I do it. Others may think that's weird. Oh well!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

....It goes on top of epoxy primer and should not be used in place of epoxy primer which provides your corrosion protection....

By the way, thanks for this explanation.

I know SQUAT about body and fender work but I know how to do hard, repetitive work so I should be good for basic stuff like applying epoxy primer with a Harbor Freight gun and then sanding, and sanding, and sanding...

The info about guide coat stuff is helpful too. Curious: what grit of sandpaper do you usually use on combo bare metal/filler before applying epoxy primer? Or do you put your filler OVER the epoxy primer? Seems like that question is controversial on some posts.

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Curious: what grit of sandpaper do you usually use on combo bare metal/filler before applying epoxy primer? Or do you put your filler OVER the epoxy primer? Seems like that question is controversial on some posts.

First none of this stuff is controversial unless people want it to be. I've done both filler over epoxy and epoxy over filler and both work fine. Filler on bare metal is a mechanical bond (sanding) and filler over epoxy is a chemical bond that is why there is usually a seven day window and you have scuff and shoot another light coat of epoxy if you miss that window. Why because you have lost the chemical bond.

Sanding grit? I use 80 grit on bare metal if I shooting epoxy or applying filler. Its a rough enough grit for the epoxy or filler to bond to. I know people who use 36 grit when applying filler I just don't see it as necessary. By the way I now do filler over epoxy no controversy there it just works better for me as a home builder.

[VDOG]

Thanks Dan: You know I tend to be his punching bag for no apparent reason. LOL

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

http://www.eastwood.com/slick-sand-gallon.html

There, now Bam won't chime in and jump all over your ass - like he usually does!

[Low Elco]

If it's been blasted, etch (really nice panels) or epoxy straight to metal after a wipedown. I mechanically strip with 80 on a da pad in a drill and a wire brush, then 80/150 on a DA to level out. Then filler after epoxying, scrub the work area with 80 for filler tooth. I knock filler down with 80 on a block. If I think it's good, I lightly scrub with 150 to knock the 80 tooth down then SS it. I lay a good spot coat over the bodywork area areas, then a medium coat over the whole thing. Then when it dries, 80 real quick over your worked areas, re-guide if good and 150 the whole panel. Then 1 medium coat with ss, and finish out on that coat. Yellow truck in my sig was done this way.

Sorry to butt in again, Kab.

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Sorry to butt in again, Kab.

Don't be sorry about sharing information.

[VDOG]

Its hard for me to follow the bodywork thing. Filler primer, epoxy primer, 2k primer, primer sealer. All I would know to do is sand the body, shoot some primer on and and paint.

Way too advance for me.