For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

[mjensen]

Great score on the wheels, and meeting an axle guru

Now, git'r'dun

[swamp rat]

Just a heads up, the 14 bolt conversion brackets do bolt right up to the Eaton as well, then all you need to do is get some front replacement disks for a 71 or 72 3/4T and longer studs, then use the stock Eaton rear hubs and your done. Be sure to get the 1 1/4 width rotors not the thin ones, then make sure when you buy the calipers they don't accidentally have the wrong width caliper in the correct box, it happened to me.

But you are correct about there being more available parts for the 14 bolt, all the bearings and seals are still available for the Eaton but the Pinion bearing is quite large and last i checked they said it was about $400 but don't quote me on that. Its the drums and brake parts and gears that are getting hard to get.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Just a heads up, the 14 bolt conversion brackets do bolt right up to the Eaton as well, then all you need to do is get some front replacement disks for a 71 or 72 3/4T and longer studs, then use the stock Eaton rear hubs and your done. Be sure to get the 1 1/4 width rotors not the thin ones, then make sure when you buy the calipers they don't accidentally have the wrong width caliper in the correct box, it happened to me.

But you are correct about there being more available parts for the 14 bolt, all the bearings and seals are still available for the Eaton but the Pinion bearing is quite large and last i checked they said it was about $400 but don't quote me on that. Its the drums and brake parts and gears that are getting hard to get.

Yeah, I read that. And like you said, if I could get the 3.73 gears and pinion bearings, Id keep it. But looking at this as an ease to repair/fix down the road, I would rather have the ability to find the part easily.

So you kept your Eaton and did a disc brake swap?

Im also trying to lock down my engine/trans decision now to decide if having 3.73 gears over the 4.10 will make a difference. Going to make a post to the general forum for input. Hope to hear you chime in.

[swamp rat]

Yes i did keep the Eaton and put Disks on it, if i had to do it allover again I'd use different brackets, the Ruff stuff look nice, i was also looking at a set from DYI, they have a gusseted bend and mutable positions. had to send mine back and have him re drill the holes as they were too close to the disk, i would have rathered he just made another set but..

http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?rout...&product_id=35

[Jahloha]

Now I am trying to get the dang shafts out of the control arms, was able to muscle loose one nut from one of the UCAs, but couldn't get the second. Gonna borrow a bigger socket from a neighbor and try again.

PS. I bought new shafts from POL

[MAC71]

I could not get my ball joints separated with the fork I had because it was to thin. I had to weld a bunch of beads on top and grind it to shape to be have the thickness that would work well.

[REEDS 72]

Looking super nice you are doing a great job keep up the good work all be watching this one.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by MAC71

I could not get my ball joints separated with the fork I had because it was to thin. I had to weld a bunch of beads on top and grind it to shape to be have the thickness that would work well.

Yeah man, these are seriously PITAs to get out haha. I am happy these are gone, sorry I didnt call you back the other night, two young kids proves to be crazy. I definitely want to swing by and check out your project!

Originally Posted by REEDS 72

Looking super nice you are doing a great job keep up the good work all be watching this one.

Reeds, thanks a lot! I remember seeing your thread and wishing there were more pictures. Looks like I gotta swing by and check it out.

Same with yours Michael.

[mjensen]

Good work Jason!

I really need to find a magic motivation potion to get working on mine

[REEDS 72]

Let me know when you're going to be in the area and I will PM my address to you.

[Jahloha]

I finally found the article that tells the story on how Gramps won his truck for a $1 raffle ticket back in 1970. He is a great man and will be framing this article, alongside a license plate and keys as a momento to him in my office.

Short read, enjoy.

[mjensen]

That is an awesome story to go with the truck for sure!

[Mustard72]

Really is a cool story.

Nice progress, too, Jason.

[MAC71]

Any updates?

[swamp rat]

Wow that's a big change in a hurry! Knowing you moved the truck too at least means you haven't lost interest, looking forward for more updates after the dust settles.

[mjensen]

Glad you made it Jason! Keep us posted.

[Mustard72]

Not every build thread has a relocation to Hawaii in the middle of it...

Good to here the truck made it mostly unscathed.

[Aus69c20]

Subscribed. Hope you're settling in well.
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[Jahloha]

EVERYONE I need some serious help. First of all, no I am not dead haha.

It has been over 2 years since my last post and Gramps' truck is still with me and in my garage. I won't give all the reasons but I have a very serious inquiry that I hope to get real answers to.

What price am I looking at to have my truck restored for me?

I am talking that a 25' arrives at the doorstep of a restoration service and they handle it from there.

Looking for real world guesstimates.

And yes I know it will cost a hell of a lot, so please don't bother with "smart a" remarks haha. I wouldn't ask if I wasn't serious.

Ready. Set. Go!

PS...I'd love to say in the future "built not bought", but I'd also like to drive this truck and help my kids have memories in it like I did with Gramps

[Jahloha]

And nothing has changed since I shipped my truck out to Hawaii with me. Its a frame, body parts, and thats it.

Have a rear end but seriously wouldn't mind just buying one from the restorer to keep things simple.

I am literally talking taking the truck corpse and making it drive again with crate motor, single piece drive shaft, new electrical, etc etc

[nds1968]

Hey Jason, That number can be all over the place. Do you know of a reputable shop that is local? You can talk to them about a budget and timeline. I'm throwing in the towel on my truck also and will be having someone do the rust repair. I picked a reputable shop with reasonably quick turn around times so that it won't get stuck in paint jail...

[Jahloha]

STILL LOOKING.

I am getting closer to being financially ready (lump sum of cash) to get my truck shipped to a shop and finished.

If anyone has any recommendations of shops anywhere along the west coast, please let me know of their names.

Looking to ship the truck to a shop before summer (May-ish).

Mahalo.

[Jahloha]

Well I figured that if the time is now, restoration shop or not, I will get back onto my Gramps build.

Got the DS UCA and LCA installed. Those bushings nuts are intense, but totally doable with the right sockets. I ran to O'reilly and got one for the uppers and lowers.

When reassembling I put the original spacer back onto the appropriate UCA shaft, but was curious if this will even make a difference haha. I assume once its all back together things will be drastically different. Either way I did it.

I also ordered larger u-bolts for the UCAs per the common recommendation on this forum; luckily, I didn't even have to expand the holes to make these fit.

PICS:

[Jahloha]

For my UCA/LCA rebuild I used this killer thread by John Lee:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=599579

A perfect example of how valuable our forum is.

I used his notch technique and pregreased all bushing before install.

This really helped.

[BigDaddyV]

Glad to see you working on it again, it sure is a nice truck. Keep up the good work bud.