1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500

[Second Series]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I like the work you have done so far, and how you think outside the box. also how you aren't afreaid to try making your own stuff. nice inventions so far.

Thanks!

I went after the original mirror bracket holes. There is a reinforcement bracket under the cowl for the mirror bracket. I was unable to get a copper backer on the holes. I cleaned the area and started with the O-A. The upper holes went well, but the heat revealed a good amount of lead, it melted and dripped away. I finished the lower holes. After grinding down the welds, body filler took care of the profile. I used the inside bracket to locate the upper hole with a drill, and then used the new mirror bracket to locate the lower hole. The cowl side vent bracket had to be reattached. I used the MIG for that. It was hard to get access to clean the metal inside the cowl. The welder head wouldn’t fit in much. I tacked the top and bottom of the bracket, it’s satisfactory.

It was warmer for a week. I cleaned up the doors and painted the inside as much as I could, and the interior. I installed the rubber wipers. I read that they could be slid in from the gap in the channel, I tried for 2 seconds. I then placed one edge of the wiper in the channel and worked the other edge into the channel with a large flat blade driver. It went in without much trouble. I cut a hole for the lock retainer in the drivers door.

I wanted the best weatherstrip for the doors so I got some from Steele rubber. I attached it with the 3M adhesive. I had watched a couple videos on the procedure, but they didn’t really cover applying the adhesive. I laid down a bead, but I did not smear it flat. I taped it down but it looks like it could have been a tighter fit towards the door. In the videos I didn’t see how the 20+ foot weatherstrip with adhesive applied was dealt with befor attaching to the door. My weatherstrip was dragging in the gravel at my feet, so I applied adhesive every few inches as I worked it in place. It’s on there now! I worked the hinge pockets to easily accommodate the hinges. It was a struggle removing the door from the hinges, I wanted an easier install. It was easy, attach the hinges to the truck, set the door on the running board, lift up and slide on to the hinges, place bolts. Adjusting the door was interesting. Hinge to truck for vertical, hinge to door for horizontal. The door would not close, weatherstrip is too big! After that I read a bunch of threads about door weatherstrip woes. One solution was to strap the doors closed and increase tension, the weather strip will conform after time, like years. I’ll do that for now, and have the option to swap out the larger weatherstrip for something else if it doesn’t work.

[Second Series]

I have been going over the final details to get ready for paint. I removed the rear doors and hinges. There were some cracks in the rear door sheet metal, I fixed those. I cleaned up the rear doors and Painted the interior. I also painted the last of the interior, the rear door jamb. I removed the runningboard to body seal retainer, that was a miserable chore. I cleaned up the Visor and the rear splash pan. I have a half pint sample of each color so I need some test surface. It was a hot day and I had some time. I mixed up the ½ pint of Windsor Blue and sprayed my test pieces. I checked the pot to see if any paint was left and found it still full! I had prepped the rear doors and sprayed some primer on the rusty areas, but had not fully primered. I decided to try to use up this paint on the doors with a couple coats, and I put another coat on the test pieces. In the end there was still some paint left. I had to stop when my compressor made a noise and stopped working. The belt came off and the motor breaker threw. I fiddled around with the compressor and realigned the motor, it works for now. The rear doors look o.k. but I might shoot some high build primer over the blue since there are some spots that could use something. There are places where the old paint and the original paint have chipped off that show the edge through this new paint. I was impressed with how easy it was to paint with a paint gun, all things considered. The automotive paint with activator and reducer, the temperature is warm, the air compressor size, compared to spray cans it went on clean with no sign of dripping or orange peel.

[olcarguy]

Looking good. Keep at lad your almost done....

[Second Series]

Primer Done! I got a fan for the car tent, and mounted a flood light. Even then there was not enough light and my glasses kept fogging. I made a catwalk to get to the roof, and then pulled it out to do the sides. I had my back on the tent and the sprayer to my chest, not enough room in there. I used FP410 primer, that’s what the paint shop sold me. I loaded the accuspray paint gun and got up on the catwalk and noticed paint dripping everywhere. Back off the catwalk to investigate, I found the liner lip had folded in in my haste to put the lid on. Fixed that and no more drips, just paint all over the gun and cup. It had been overcast and cool, but the weather cleared for a couple days and up to 70 degrees, warm enough, but not too hot. I wore painting coveralls and was sweating everywhere. I think sweat was dripping from my wrists because I saw some liquid drops on the paint a couple times, either that or the air line was dripping. The air couple did have a leak and there is no filter on the line. I shot the body and front fenders in 2 ½ hours the first day, and the 4 doors, hood, and rear fenders the second day in 2 hours. Also the cowl vent covers and window garnish. Still have to prep and prime the grill though. Now that the awesome patina is covered up, the little dings and blemishes stand out. I’ll go over some spots with body filler.

[dsraven]

Looks decent. I hope you consider respiratory protection.

[olcarguy]

Yes respitory protection is definatly needed. And don't scimp on disposable masks...get yourself a proper painting mask. Your lungs will thank you.

[Second Series]

Before I started paint I set up a utility shelf. I have been using the back of the panel truck for supplies. Now it’s masked off for paint and I needed everything in one place. I had purchased a good respirator, and then picked up the cartridges and filters as I found them available. The time came to replace the filters, and I found that the cartridges wouldn’t come off the respirator. I had to get a new respirator that works with the replaceable cartridges.
The primer really brings out all the blemishes. This area on the rear door looked fine with the patina, well that is until I welded some fractures and the paint bubbled. After primer I sanded down the transition between paint and no-paint. Primed again and it looks a little better, but the pock marks are still visible. I proceeded with paint and it doesn’t look great. I had selected Cream medium and had a half pint for a test spray. It looks very yellow. The pock marks are still visible under the paint. I had the paint shop modify the formula a little to try to be less yellow. After I applied more paint to the dried paint, the pock marks were less noticeable.
In the end this will not be a pristine paint job. I’m really happy with the big flat areas of the roof and sides. The rough spots are on the doors and fenders. I’m not going to obsess over the fine details, I could work on perfecting the body for the next year of two. Instead I’ll be driving every day soon. I was showing my 9 y.o. son the primed truck and he asked me “What are you? Are you a Farmer? Are you an Engineer?” I replied “I’m an Artist.” I would have preferred to leave the old patina paint, but there were places that were rusty, places that were shiny steel where the paint flaked off, places with body filler. I’m o.k. with some imperfections showing through the new paint. Classical oil paintings look good, but when you look close you can see the chunky gobs. These classic trucks have their chunky gobs too, particularly the welds in the door jambs for example.
I sprayed the Cream Medium on the top half and fenders. The Cream Medium looks more like buttermilk, but I’m going for the period correct colors. Although two-tone wasn’t available in 1947 a custom order could have been an option. I had originally wanted a very dark purple that looks black, but decided to go with a more family friendly color scheme. Top half is done and masked for the bottom Windsor Blue.
The test Truck is very yellow in the sunlight, but subdued in inside lighting.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by Second Series

Top half is done and masked for the bottom Windsor Blue.
The test Truck is very yellow in the sunlight, but subdued in inside lighting.

It must feel amazing to get that color on! Well done sir.

[olcarguy]

Looks goood.....You have to show some driving shots when the time comes....

[dsraven]

post 157, looks great. sure went from primer to paint fast, wow. curious though, what kind of trees are those in your driveway? the leaves LOOK HUGE!
LOL

[Second Series]

Originally Posted by dsraven

post 157, looks great. sure went from primer to paint fast, wow. curious though, what kind of trees are those in your driveway? the leaves LOOK HUGE!
LOL

Maple leaves, Eh?


The Windsor Blue went on easy. I had a friend help move the hood in to place. I wrangled with the hood for awhile and got it mounted. I decided the old front emblem was too far gone and got a new one. I had previously purchased a mounting pad, but it is too big, so I just went without.
Put the front doors back on, and installed the striker plates and latch mechanism with outer handle.
Attached weatherstrip to the rear doors. I was struggling with the rear door hinge grommets, so I called my friend over again. We gave up after about 10 minutes. I had installed the grommets on the truck and then mounted the hinges on the truck. Installed the grommets on the doors and was trying to get the hinges through the grommets. I removed everything and installed grommets and hinges on the doors. Installed grommets on the truck and was able to get the hinged doors through the grommets on the truck. It was not easy, soapy liquid helped. The grommets tried to roll in on themselves.
My 9 y.o. son offered to help me with the windshield. I got everything ready and removed the new glass from the bubble wrap. He took the bubble wrap and proceeded to pop as I continued to assemble the glass in the weatherstrip. He helped me carry the glass to the truck and tip it into place, before he was off playing with a stick. I worked the glass in to place, it didn’t take too long. The center divider was a struggle, my son pushed on the outside while I turned the screw on the inside. We got the upper 3 screws in. I went to the hardware store the next day and got some more fasteners. I made tool to help install the center divider. A longer bolt got through to the divider and a nut cinched it down. I used duct tape to hold the divider in place while swapping out the bolt. The window trim was next followed by the mirror. Headliner went under the trim, it needed to be modified for the screw holes of the center retainer. I tried to install the second piece of headliner, but it seemed like It needed three arms. I moved on to the sun visor. I used some cord to hang it in place above the truck. I don’t know what kind of visor it is. I got some end mounts for a Dieterich visor. They bolt on to the visor and clamp on to the drip rail. I struggled with those for too long. I got one bolt on each side. The gap on the passenger door was too tight and the visor bracket interfered. I tried to hammer the bracket, but it popped off.

[3drburb]

The panel is looking very good, I see you are making the best out of this nice weather.
I hope to see you on the streets soon.
Great work!

[6DoF]

based on the painted toy, i'll admit i was not sure about the color choice ... but that last pic there looks solid and i now i really want to see a full shot in the sun. i think i'm starting to see your vision and get on board with it!

[Second Series]

Originally Posted by 3drburb

The panel is looking very good, I see you are making the best out of this nice weather.
I hope to see you on the streets soon.
Great work!

Thanks! I was commuting to Auburn about 10 years ago in this. I’ll be glad to get it back on the road.

Originally Posted by 6DoF

based on the painted toy, i'll admit i was not sure about the color choice ... but that last pic there looks solid and i now i really want to see a full shot in the sun. i think i'm starting to see your vision and get on board with it!

I’m not 100% sure about the color either. It’s not exactly what I wanted, but I’m happy with it being closer to done.

I took another stab at the 2nd headliner piece. I set it in place on the passenger side and put a screw in the back. I tried to push the driver side into place and was able to line up the dome light screw holes, I put in those screws. The next day I got the driver side in enough to look good and used single screws in all the mounting holes. Then spent an hour inventorying the rear door fasteners. Next day after work I was at the hardware store for 2 hours picking out fasteners. I painted the heads of some of the bolts.
I was ready to get something done, so I trimmed the headliner and installed the 2 small retainers on each end. The rear retainer went on and it looks good. The front headliner is short on the ends and won’t make it to the windlace retainer, bummer. I decided to ditch the sun visor end brackets and screwed directly to the cab. I used a clamp from one of the center supports and I am happy with how it turned out.
During teardown the left rear door lower lock rod broke in the trunnion of the lock lever. I cleared the bits from the trunnion. I used O-A to weld a bolt onto the lock rod. I heated it up and it fused together. The spring on the lock lever was broken, I got something close. I thought to myself how it’s a good thing that all springs are wound the same way right before I noticed that is not the case here. I made the new spring work. I painted the door latch pieces and installed them. The left rear door closes nicely. The right rear door, I installed the latch mechanism and the handle. It latches but doesn’t close as far as I’d like and the bottom is sticking out. I had found the upper hinge hole was bent on that door. I don’t know how that could have happened since there have always been keepers on both doors. I’m thinking the hinges got bent after teardown. I’ll look at that later.

[Second Series]

Installed windlace on both doors. I was wondering what the hole at each end of the dash was for. Now I know it’s to get at this one windlace retainer screw. The rear glass went in easy. The hood was up a little. I loosened the two bolts under the dash on both sides, loosened the one hinge bolt on the outside a little, and used a hammer and chisel to knock the hinge down on each side. Good results. Rain was forecasted so I had to get the fenders and grill under cover. I mounted the right fender, it will need to be moved up a bit. In anticipation of assembling the doors, I painted the window hardware. The window rollers include a rivet, so I ordered a rivet tool. While I wait for that to arrive I proceeded with the driver side key lock. I compared both latches and hogged out a copy of the key mechanism. I’m still figuring out how to make that work.
Awhile ago I was looking into the card panels in the cargo area. I had located two automotive upholstery shops that said they could get me some cowl board, they even had some with the Rhino texture, like the original. Now neither one of them is playing nice, but one did suggest I get it from Keyston Brothers. They are a local distributor and were happy to supply me with some cowl board. It does not have the texture, so I decided to get some Grey Tolex from a guitar amp supply house. I’ll glue the tolex to the cowl board and with a sound deadening material the cargo area should look and sound good.

[olcarguy]

Looking good......

[Second Series]

The driver side key lock works, I made several versions to finally get to something that works consistently.
I mounted the rear lights, somehow I forgot to paint the door mounted rear light.
After paint I attempted to attach the side cowl door and found it wasn’t closing all the way. I removed the bracket. With the vent door in the closed position, I measured door to hinge at 55°. A simple template helped position the bracket. The original attachment was a weak design. I put Two long bolts through inner and outer cowl. The cowl vent door works good now.
Installed the outer garnish molding on both front doors. On the passenger side I installed the rear window channel and the felt channel. I attached the inner window molding with new cat whiskers to make sure the channel was positioned correctly. I tried to drill through the channel to attach with screws, but kept loosing the hole in that black fuzz. Finally I placed a piece of tape in the channel and drilled through that so I could see where the hole was. The surface of the window opening beneath the felt channel is mostly flat, but angles away toward the inside. The drillbit kept hitting that angled part deflecting instead of cutting. After awhile I removed the inner molding to discover the issue. I biased the drillbit towards the outside and achieved success.
I wrangled the glass into the door for awhile. Also the spring on the regulator broke while wrestling with it. Turns out there is no replacement for that spring. O-A fixed it and I read about how to get it back on. It was not difficult to install the regulator spring with the right set-up. I did everything wrong getting the window and regulator in the door before figuring out the right way. Install the glass first, next the regulator, then put the roller channel on the rollers, last attach the roller channel to the glass. The driver side went smoother, but it was still a struggle.

[Second Series]

The driver side Fender went on easier than the passenger side. I didn’t like how the fender isn’t wide enough to span across the bolt holes. I made some anti-squeak gasket with roofing tar paper for the fender to body. This is a 1 ton truck so the bumper mount is not like the smaller trucks. I had purchased a fender bolt kit awhile ago. Those bolts are too small, this needs the ½” bolts. I got some ½” stainless to get me by for now. I might replace them with something with the chrome caps later. Most of the vendors list them as bumper bolts, but without the size. I did find one vendor that does list the size. I had to reconfigure the Bull Bar supports for the modified frame ends. Still need to paint before assembly.

I installed the running board to body seal on the passenger side and then decided to paint the bolts black. I painted the rest of the bolts and swapped them out. Painted the removed bolts and installed the driver side. It was a struggle to get the running boards on in front of the seals so I tucked the running boards behind the seal with the plan of moving the rubber back later. The rear fenders, running boards and front fenders are in place with all bolts loose. The hood is adjusted and the hood latch works well. Next I’ll adjust the front fenders and tighten everything up. The running boards attach to the rear fenders, but not the front fenders, still I wanted some wiggle room.

I used some spray adhesive to attach Tolex to Cowl Board for the cargo panels. For the first set I slipped the panel under the rear rib and then slid into the lower and front channel so it was a tight fit. For the rest of the panels I added Boom Mat. All but the last rearward panels are installed. The rear lights need to be wired before the last panels can go in. I cleaned up the routing of the wiring harness that goes to the back of the truck, then I proceeded to connect it to the wires at the bulkhead.

I haven’t started the truck in some time. I tried to start it, but the battery was down. I let it charge for an hour and the truck started right up. It ran awhile and then shut down. The battery light and the CEL were illuminated. I started it up again, it ran o.k. but was not as responsive to the gas pedal as it should be. I’ll charge up the battery and add some fresh gas before checking for trouble codes.

[Second Series]

The alternator was bad. I replaced it. The new one had a six rib pulley, my belt has 4 ribs. I swapped out the pulley from the old alternator. I made a trip to the parts yard, but all the trucks were picked away. I found one truck that had some parts left. I got a handful of obsolete junk for $5.00 including and EGR valve and fuel pressure spring. I’ll keep that stuff until it’s needed. I also picked up a timing light and a fuel pressure gauge. I was going to test the fuel pressure, but the truck finally would not start. I put 4 gallons of gas in a year and a half ago. It had ran out, I added another 4 gallons and it started right up and ran strong. It’s starting to get cold and rainy here so I’m trying to get all the crawling around on the ground work done before it turns into a mud pit. Painting weather is over. I mounted the fuel charcoal canister up on the inner fender. The Headlight sockets from the ’88 GMC are the same as the ’47 Chevy, so I can use the donor harness. I did have to cut the harness to feed the headlight wires through the bucket grommet and extend the wires. I painted the buckets, but the weather was not good for that. The headlight adjuster was missing on one side so I’ll have to order one, also might order new turn signal sockets. I had modified the parking lights with two filament bulbs 20+ years ago. I think I can do a better job of it now, I had mounted the sockets with one bolt instead of two as I did not want to drill an extra hole at the time.
There were a couple 70 degree days that I was able to paint the bull bar. I modified the supports to go onto the modified donor frame. I took a break from crawling around on the ground and finished installing the cargo panels, and the wood strip.

[6DoF]

is the bull bar something you made new or something from back in the day? it's rad

[Second Series]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

is the bull bar something you made new or something from back in the day? it's rad

Thanks! It came with the truck. I've seen similar on one or two other trucks. It may have been a dealer option. Each one I've seen is slightly different so I don't know if there was a document of the design, or if a company was producing them.

[vintovka]

I am impressed with your perseverance!! Keep it up. BTW your build makes me thankful mine was in a dry environment for most of its life!!

[Second Series]

I re-modified the parking lights for dual filament, painted the housings and installed/wired up.
Connected the headlight wiring harness to the wires at the firewall. Next is to wire up under dash, the headlight switch, turn signal switch, and brake light switch. I’m cleaning up the original headlight switch, it should work. I modified a wiring diagram to incorporate the original light switch into the donor circuit to help me understand what needs to get connected.

Time to mount the seatbelts. I cut an access hole in a panel for the shoulder harness. The seatbelt kit included some 3” washers so I glued a nut and lockwasher to that and with that taped to a wrench I was able to place it inside the panel. For the retractor I drilled a hole and removed an access plate to feed the hardware into the panel. I ran a fish tape from the hole to the access, pulled a string through. Placed the washer with nut onto the string and tied a screw to pull the washer. Held the washer in place with magnets, removed the string and screwed on the retractor. This was a one-shot process, get it right the first try. I succeeded.

[Second Series]

Originally Posted by Second Series

I started this build thread on 5/30/19. I drove the 1947 panel truck, and the 1988 K2500 to a shop around 9/6/19. It was in the shop for a year. In that time they removed both bodies from the frames. A jig was made to locate the body mounts. The ends of the donor frame were modified and outriggers were attached. The rear axle was moved back a few inches. The ’47 body was set on the donor frame for mock-up. A custom core support was fabbed and the front sheet metal fitted. The Steering Column, Brake and Clutch pedals mounted. Fuel filler relocated to driver side, Parking brake lever bracket fabbed and mounted to the right of the floor shifter. The body and engine were removed from the donor frame and the body mounts were welded on. Frame painted. I reworked the original bed wood. Body and engine back on the frame, and sheet metal set in place. I hauled the project home on 11/4/20.

The second year was slow but steady. I had a custom radiator built and I installed it. I moved the axle bumps, and rear shocks back and fabbed an upper shock bracket for the passenger side, the start of my welding experience with O-A. I fabbed a spare tire mount, and the exhaust, the start of my welding experience with Gmaw. I lowered the gas tank to modify one of the body mounts that was making contact with a fuel line. I fabbed a bracket and mounted the parking brake lines. Installed the front Brake line, and Hydraulic Clutch line. Modified the connecting rods for the Brake and Clutch masters. Fabbed a stiffener plate for the firewall mounted masters. Painted the inside of the dash and the firewall. Painted the interior cargo area and installed the bed wood. Installed a driver seat, Rebuilt the steering shaft with longer dd stock. Modified the power steering lines. Fabbed brackets and installed cooler radiators for the steering and oil. Repaired a broken fitting on the engine for the coolant. Had some hoses made for the oil cooler.

The Third year of the build, 12/9/21 I started to cut wires on the harness. I found the cowl vent conflicted with the brake pedal bracket, so moved the brake pedal bracket over and installed the cowl vent. Fabbed a bracket and installed the gas pedal. Installed the foot starter button and linkage. Fabbed a bracket and mounted a button for the starter linkage. Cut and spliced the engine wiring harness to the cab wiring harness. Wired in a DRAC. Installed a firewall pad. Fabbed a bracket for the T-case shifter, installed it. Cut a battery box into the inner fender. Painted the dash. Fabbed a bracket and mounted the fuse panel. Wired in some relays for the starter circuit. Painted and installed the inner fenders. Restored the heater and installed. Replaced the Distributor, Then the engine fired right up! I mounted the spare tire and rear bumper and drove the truck onto my property on 6/24/22. It had been in the street until then. I burned out the battery running without a voltage gauge or load resistor, so replaced the Battery and installed the donor gauge cluster for the time being. Modified the Brake and Clutch linkages to lower the pedals. Adjusted the door gap with a 2x4 and brute force. Removed the door hinges and striker plates. Painted the hinges. Found the hood threads had been rethreaded for coarse screws, modified some coarse screws with shoulders. Tried to paint the underside of the hood in sub 50s weather.

Getting into the Fourth year of the build, I’ll have to wait for warmer weather for some painting. I’ll work on what I can during the winter.

In the 4th year of the build I used Oxy-Acetylene to fill the old mirror holes in the cowl and doors, and repaired a tear in the rear door sheet metal. I reworked the doors. The rear doors I painted, rebuilt the interior latch system, installed weatherstrip and glass, and mounted on the truck. They close nicely. The front doors I painted, added hush mat, added a key lock to the driver side, installed the glass and rubber etc. These doors close well. I applied primer and then single stage paint to almost everything on the truck. Installed the windshield, external sun visor, cab headliner, and cab windlace. Hood installed and adjusted, front sheetmetal, runningboards and rear fenders in place. Installed rear Bullet lights, and side cowl vent cover. Refinished the interior cargo panels. Mounted and wired the front lights. Installed shoulder seat belts. Currently wiring underdash. I’m just not motivated to work out in the cold, but I am ready to get this on the road, so close.

[nvrdone]

I dont blame you for not working on the truck. I'm in Yakima and right now its 15 deg and snowing. And I have a heated garage !!!