No Limit '72 C-10

[Alvin]

Rob, you've about got me talked into selling off my air ride stuff and switching to a handling-focused suspension. I'm interested in driving my truck more than anything and I feel the air ride adds complexity and possible problems that offset the cool factor when it's parked.

Needless to say I'm watching this post closely to see what other products you guys come up with.

[67cheby]

aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!! NNNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO cant you have both...without SACRAFICING one or the other ???

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!! NNNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO cant you have both...without SACRAFICING one or the other ???

I'm sure it's possible.. but I highly doubt it's within my budget!

[robnolimit]

don't give up just yet. Once I dial in the ride hieght I want, I plan on swapping the rear coils to bags. This is the only way I can hit my goal of good handling and tow a trailer. A spring is just a spring. And, an air spring has a naturally progressive spring rate. I guess the most important thing is getting the right bag at the right hieght to get the spring rate that you want. You can have it all, it just takes a little homework. To be honest, we fix air ride systems every week, and 99.9% of all problems can be tied to parts choice, or installation. Shocks and sway bars are still important.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

I guess the most important thing is getting the right bag at the right hieght to get the spring rate that you want.

Can you elaborate on the selection process for this? Is there published information on spring rates for 'bags, or will you be taking measurements by way of some sort of testing process?

Thanks in advance -Chris

[skoffice]

Hey Rob, first of all THANK YOU, again, for all of this awesome info! It has been so much help, its unreal! Now, not trying to get off topic (though I'm sure someone else could benefit from the answer as well), but have you found the center of gravity point for JT yet? I'm trying to set up a 4 link in my buddy's truck, but it's not together yet so I really have no way of finding the CG. I know every truck is going to be different, but there should be a rough, general area of where it is on a SWB, truck lowered 3-6", small block, TH400. I read somewhere that the upper half of the bellhousing is a close estimate but that seems a little too far forward maybe? Any insight would be great!

[robnolimit]

I'll see what I can do for ya this week.

[usmcchevy]

Loving this build, keep it coming! Would drop spindles handle better vs. the cut springs?

[gringoloco]

'Nother question while I'm bugging you: How much change in ride height did you see with the swap from the 6082 to the 6102? Any comparison shots wearing the same rolling stock?

Thanks -Chris

[robnolimit]

In my opinion, I would always choose drop spindles overcut (short) springs as a first move. Then springs if needed. The 6102 spring is stiffer, 1015 lb/in. We cut 1/2 a coil. It is about a 1 1/2" drop spring that way. I like the ride, it is controlled but not stiff. By early spring we should have private label springs, but we need more testing to get the rate/hieght perfect. I swapped in some 4" drop rear springs - it had 2", and a 2" block, to get the back down some more. Well, its lower, but it rides like crap - too stiff. But it is close to the RH I'm after, so soon I think I will swap to air.

[Greywolf200]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

I swapped in some 4" drop rear springs - it had 2", and a 2" block, to get the back down some more. Well, its lower, but it rides like crap - too stiff. But it is close to the RH I'm after, so soon I think I will swap to air.

What were the spring rates for the old 2" dropped springs and the newer 4" springs? Thanks,

[Hart_Rod]

Hey Rob any update or pictures of the rear sway bar setup? I'm interested in it as well as the brackets but I would like to see how it all fits together. Thanks,

R/

[robnolimit]

Greywolf, I'll have to test the spring rates and let you know. - next week

HartRod, I'm still waiting on our revised sample bar. Hopefully tue or wed. I'll post up asap.

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

In my opinion, I would always choose drop spindles overcut (short) springs as a first move. Then springs if needed. The 6102 spring is stiffer, 1015 lb/in. We cut 1/2 a coil. It is about a 1 1/2" drop spring that way. I like the ride, it is controlled but not stiff. By early spring we should have private label springs, but we need more testing to get the rate/hieght perfect. I swapped in some 4" drop rear springs - it had 2", and a 2" block, to get the back down some more. Well, its lower, but it rides like crap - too stiff. But it is close to the RH I'm after, so soon I think I will swap to air.

Thanks!

[dirtball]

Ttt

[robnolimit]

It's update time.Now we have a bent frame, and we can straighten it, but we found a pretty good (not perfect) bare frame for $300.00. Since we have a new cab, this seemed like a good move, as we can do more prep work, and still drive and test parts on the JT. We did some basic boxing, and welded in the front crossmember, and all frame crossmembers. The stock rear shock crossmember was bent, so we replaced it with a 1 1/2" tube, - we'll be using our new rear shoch mounts so we don't need them on the crossmember.

[67cheby]

why didnt you go ahead and notch the frame while you were at it ?? it will handle better a little lower wont it ??

[robnolimit]

we did flip the trailing arm mounts, to raise the anti-squat. The coating is called 'Raptor' liner, and its like a spray on bed liner. It's tough stuff, and easy to use. The cab was pressure washed, and sealed. We had to make raise the trans tunnel, so that was done and sealed up too.

[robnolimit]

We set the cab on using urathane mounts, and squared it all up nice. Next, we slid in our used 5.3 and boted it in. Now, I bought an ECE mount for the trans, and I like it a lot. It catches both the top and bottom of the frame, so it would help stiffen the chassis. But, someone welded in some tubes in our chassis, so the ECE mount won't go in. So we used one of ours. Urathane on the motor mounts, rubber on the trans. The oil pan hung down a bit, so we cut it off, shortened the pan 1 3/4", and added to the sump a bit forward. (i'll get some picts) The motor is as far back as we could get it in the stock firewall.

[robnolimit]

Just so you know, the stock exhaust manifolds would not fit. So, we got a set of the new Hedman 3/4 length for LS. When I was a kid, Hedman was not so great. But I have too tell you, these are NICE. 3/8" flanges, 16 gauge tubing, and nice collectors. Here's the best part, they fit GREAT! I can tell we'll be using a lot of these in the future.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

why didnt you go ahead and notch the frame while you were at it ?? it will handle better a little lower wont it ??

Cool. looks I pulled one over on ya. Look at the rear kick. A bit more than a stocker. 4" more to be exact.

[67cheby]

i laughed after i posted that... "me telling you it would handle better lower" like i could tell you anything about handling...sorry

[67cheby]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Cool. looks I pulled one over on ya. Look at the rear kick. A bit more than a stocker. 4" more to be exact.

i see....this young grasshopper still has alot to learn , note to self... look more open mouth less!!

[robnolimit]

We are using the stock ECU and harness. We used the instructions that are on the LS build threads. It took about 6 hrs to do. We sent the ECU out to be flashed for 75 bucks. Once everthing was in place, we hooked up the harness and it lit right off. we're makin good progress, and I'm excited.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

i laughed after i posted that... "me telling you it would handle better lower" like i could tell you anything about handling...sorry

Hey, you were right. We were just a step ahead. lol