ID '60-'62 POwer Brake Booster Adapter Bracket With A Clutch

[Captainfab]

Two of the pics included with your order show how that is installed as well as all the other linkage components.

[sirJim]

Originally Posted by AngryPirate

Does anyone have a picture of this part installed?

You mean like this?

[AngryPirate]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Two of the pics included with your order show how that is installed as well as all the other linkage components.

Yes, those pictures were helpful, but the one picture with the new inside linkage fitting were should not installed (it was a picture of basically the ordering of the parts with no indication of where the firewall fit into the assembly), so i was a little confused since the step-off of the notched nuts seemed a little more than I would've expected, but if that is the way it goes on, that's great. I was just making sure I had the correct part and was installing it properly before drilling any more holes or holes that were bigger than needed.

Thanks for the response.

[AngryPirate]

Originally Posted by sirJim

You mean like this?

Not those pictures. Those are the old linkage fitting installed.

The new linkage fitting it the one I posted in my question.

Thanks for the response.

[AngryPirate]

I figured it out. Here's a picture of the newer style (past ten years) of linkage installed.

[Carkrazy1987]

anyone installed an lt1 t56 with this bracket? how is the pedal feel. ive put almost 10k on my setup, and i feel like my leg is going to fall off. i thought maybe the clutch was garbage, but i just changed it to a new factory unit, and clutch is still hard. hard enough that i doubt my wife could drive the truck. any ideas?

[Carkrazy1987]

Also after looking at the setup, we are installing the push rod on the lower hole in the pedal. By doing so arent we changing the pedals effective ratio. My quick measurement shows current setup to be 3:1 ratio. Movin the push rod hole up 2in would change the ratio to a better 5:1 but not quite the recommended 6:1 ratio. Am i wrong in my measurements and assumptions here?

[Captainfab]

What bore size is your clutch master? For that hydraulic release bearing it should be a .750" bore. The clutch pedal shouldn't be that hard to push. A hard pedal is often times a clutch master with a bore size that is too large. The object of the linkage assembly on the inside is not so much to achieve a certain pedal ratio but more so to achieve a full pedal travel while not overstroking the clutch master.

[gijoec]

Hey Captainfab - I finally got back on this site and I'd like to order another 60-62 power brake adapter set-up. I want the complete package w/hydraulic clutch master and powdercoated black. Also need the hydroboost plate. Thx!

[Carkrazy1987]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

What bore size is your clutch master? For that hydraulic release bearing it should be a .750" bore. The clutch pedal shouldn't be that hard to push. A hard pedal is often times a clutch master with a bore size that is too large. The object of the linkage assembly on the inside is not so much to achieve a certain pedal ratio but more so to achieve a full pedal travel while not overstroking the clutch master.

I have the 3/4 master that came with the kit. And i understand the reasoning of the lever on the master assembly, i was more referring to the pedal side of the pushrod. If comparing the mechanic leverage from the factory location and the new location, the pedal ratio changes drastically. I will redo my measurements this weekend, but i do think the pedal pushrod should be mounted closer to the pedal pivot

[Captainfab]

PM sent.

Originally Posted by gijoec

Hey Captainfab - I finally got back on this site and I'd like to order another 60-62 power brake adapter set-up. I want the complete package w/hydraulic clutch master and powdercoated black. Also need the hydroboost plate. Thx!

[Captainfab]

I really don't think the mounting point on the clutch pedal is the issue. I have sold over 2000 of my hydraulic clutch conversions and no one else has had this issue that I know of.

Originally Posted by Carkrazy1987

I have the 3/4 master that came with the kit. And i understand the reasoning of the lever on the master assembly, i was more referring to the pedal side of the pushrod. If comparing the mechanic leverage from the factory location and the new location, the pedal ratio changes drastically. I will redo my measurements this weekend, but i do think the pedal pushrod should be mounted closer to the pedal pivot

[Carkrazy1987]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I really don't think the mounting point on the clutch pedal is the issue. I have sold over 2000 of my hydraulic clutch conversions and no one else has had this issue that I know of.

oh i dont doubt the product,i love the product, it does its job. i ended up moving the attachment bolt up 1 in on the pedal. made a big difference in feel, and also i dont have a napping/popping my pedal was doing before. may have been just too much for the lt1 clutch. also i maybe the pushrod more level, and doesnt "push up" on the lever, and more push on it.

[Captainfab]

The pushrod between the pedal and the link bar is supposed to be fairly level in the first place.

[Captainfab]

Here is a link to my new website and online store where you can see and purchase all of the products that I fabricate for the '60-'72 GM trucks.

https://customfab-cda.com

[60short]

I accidentally posted this in the regular bracket thread, but another bump (probably) never hurt!


Hey Captain!

I am definitely a newbie to this whole thing, but can you tell me the difference between master cylinder bore, or how to calculate which one I should use?

I am looking to make minimal changes, but I have a transmission swap coming up ( t5) and I figure this is the only way to keep things straight while maintaining my drum breaks

Thank you

[Captainfab]

To figure the needed bore size of a clutch master I usually look at what GM used as a reference, if you are using a factory clutch slave cylinder or hydraulic release bearing. If you are using aftermarket slave or hydraulic release bearing, the manufacturer typically has a recommendation on what bore size of clutch master to use. If you are keeping the original '60-'62 clutch slave cylinder, you will need a 1" bore clutch master.

Originally Posted by 60short

I accidentally posted this in the regular bracket thread, but another bump (probably) never hurt!


Hey Captain!

I am definitely a newbie to this whole thing, but can you tell me the difference between master cylinder bore, or how to calculate which one I should use?

I am looking to make minimal changes, but I have a transmission swap coming up ( t5) and I figure this is the only way to keep things straight while maintaining my drum breaks

Thank you

[AngryPirate]

Posted via Mobile Device

[AngryPirate]

I finally got everything installed and bled.

Was not easy, but the CaptFab adapter plates made it MUCH less painful.

[Captainfab]

That is a nice clean installation

[AngryPirate]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

That is a nice clean installation

Thank you, sir. :-)

[Matt's k5]

Hey Captain Fab, I'm on your website right now. I'm confused of some of the options of this kit looking to purchase his kit for my 62,

[Captainfab]

What options are you confused about?

[Matt's k5]

its saying remove booster bracket is that talking about hydro boost? i also emailed you

[Matt's k5]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

What options are you confused about?

you are welcome to pm me as well , do you still take paypal? i have ordered from you before