The Blue Goose

[slick copper]

Originally Posted by drewskiren

Sorry for being off topic, but who is the cutie in your avatar? We need more pics of cuties and our trucks!

I actually attempted to start a thread of this to honor the beautiful women with our trucks, but found out quickly that the site frowns upon that. Seems it causes problems and people thinking the wrong thing of it even if it's done tastefully. Oh well, guess we can slip one in here and there though in our build threads.

[oldblue1968chevy]

my gf driving the truck

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

my gf driving the truck

Tell her not to be so camera shy!

[oldblue1968chevy]

I showed her, she grinned (i think?) LOL

I fixed my senderunit/oil guage leak. Put a copper line in place of pos nylong/plastic took a 3 mile ride no leaks yet.

Ima scrap the motor and clean it nice and see where the rest of my leaks are (have bad feeling pan/rear main leaks).

Will go with 1 pc rear main felpro blue rubber next time (if there is a next time). Hopefully my trim clips come in this week and i'll get the driver side trim ALL on asap!

Mtn man chad thinks he has some DD trim he'd get rid of. Whats the correct style/colors for a 68 low optioned truck?? Did come with side trim though.

[Hubscrub]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

I showed her, she grinned (i think?) LOL

Ima scrap the motor and clean it nice and see where the rest of my leaks are (have bad feeling pan/rear main leaks).

Your gonna scrap! the motor just because of a leak

[oldblue1968chevy]

woops scrape/clean, I went to a small school and played games in typing class

[oldblue1968chevy]

Cool! the original paper work says truck place din service 10 3 67 murfreesboro tn

i got the original owners adress name lol

whats up with the metal card in the back of the booklet?

[67chevy1series]

its a "protect o plate"

[thelonerife]

I got some grill trim if you want it. You pay the shipping. I'll have to look to see if it has any dents. I think one of them is good.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Oh that'd be great lonerlife! let me know on the condition im going to check the scrapyard (they get 67 72 often but go straight to crusher no matter condition, cheyenne whatever!)

Thanks

Rick-keep exlpaining protecto plates

[oldblue1968chevy]

got 5 push in clips (big old honkers) so hopefully i'll polish trim and put some on (B pillar for sure lol) gotta bring the door back...

i ran home this afternoon on fumes

[Hubscrub]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

i ran home this afternoon on fumes

aka, sailboat fuel (cb slang)

[oldblue1968chevy]

nate-i like hearing all your funny sayings lol

sailboat fuel haha thats good, going on facebook

[oldblue1968chevy]

clips came today!

got the b pillar on, it sticks out a little but i think thats from the dent it had when i got t boned...the clips were sloppy at first but i opened em up so its tighter

Now I gotta bring the driver door back-

Do i have to take the door off to adj the bolts that go into the cab (pretty sure i do) any tips??

thanks

[oldblue1968chevy]

need to get a few more misc clips and get the bed trim on (its ALMOST perfect but the front is messed up but it matches the truck (was trying to find perfect trim, oneday this will get all restored..)

Need to adj door, GET RICKY TO SEND ME A DOOR EDGE CLIP FROM HIS STASH OF 67 68 STUFF, and get a few more bolt style clips

[Hubscrub]

how exactly are you trying to adjust the door in/out or front to back?

[oldblue1968chevy]

not sure hubscrub-

The entire door just needs to move toward the rear of the truck about a 1/4" the door/fender pretty much touch

[jbclassix]

Got some motor cycle ratchet straps? I have a red-neck trick that works...

You need ratchet straps, and something that is the thickness of the gaps you want.

-Take off your fenders
-instert your shims between the doors and body
-ratchet strap the doors through the windows and where ever you can to keep the doors from moving
-loosen the hinge bolts
-adjust the door by using the ratchet straps
-tighten down the hinges
-put your fenders back on
-take off the ratchet straps if you want to open the doors

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

not sure hubscrub-

The entire door just needs to move toward the rear of the truck about a 1/4" the door/fender pretty much touch

To move the door front to rear, you need to pull the fender off to get to the bolts that hold the hinge to the cab pillar. You can also move the door up and down with these bolts loose. To do it right, you will probably loosen and tighten them several times and test fit the door closing a lot. If you need to pull the door in or out away from the cab (bottom of door to rocker is not flush for example) loosen the hinge bolts on the door and push or pull the door in or out.
To get the fender off, take off the cowl panel to find the 2 upper fender bolts, unbolt the hood hinge, one huge bolt in the fender liner at the rear, one bolt at the bottom of the fender at the rocker, and a few at the bottom edge of the radiator support attaching the fender liner, and 2 near the back of the head light on the rad support.

Sounds like about 20 minutes, tops.

[67chevy1series]

drew is spot on but i dont think you want to take the fender off so take a pencil or sharpie and outline around the hinges where they mount to the door then take the hing to door bolts off (6) then once the door is off and its just hinges on the cab take a pencil or sharpie and outline around the hinges then loosen the bolts (6) and slide it back how ever much the door needs to come back then check to see if its equal in the horizontal lines above and below the hinge and tighten then brong the door back and put the hinges directly in the outlines on the door. tighten up WHEN DOOR IS OFF MAKE SURE TO PUT TRIM ON!!!!!!!!! putting the clip on right behind the fender will suck because there is no way possible to tighten the little nut behind the door.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Ricky-Im missing the clip that your talking about, you dont possibly have another one laying around...??

I'll try it sometime, Im a little nervous to be honest I have some other misc projects to tackle...

When I bought the truck it had trim door shut good etc, I took the door off the hinges (left the hinges on cab), should the adj be @ the door/hinge area?

Anyway thanks for the help guys

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

Ricky-Im missing the clip that your talking about, you dont possibly have another one laying around...??

I'll try it sometime, Im a little nervous to be honest I have some other misc projects to tackle...

When I bought the truck it had trim door shut good etc, I took the door off the hinges (left the hinges on cab), should the adj be @ the door/hinge area?

Anyway thanks for the help guys

A quickie rig would be to shim between the hinge and the door???

[67chevy1series]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

Ricky-Im missing the clip that your talking about, you dont possibly have another one laying around...??

I'll try it sometime, Im a little nervous to be honest I have some other misc projects to tackle...

When I bought the truck it had trim door shut good etc, I took the door off the hinges (left the hinges on cab), should the adj be @ the door/hinge area?

Anyway thanks for the help guys

i dont have any that arent on trucks... which sucks because i need 4... no your adjusting needs to be at the hinge/cab area. have you tried moveing the fender just more forward.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Fender sh ould be in factory spec

I'll try'n get my gf dad to help me on it sometime, so can I just align the door to roof/back of cab/rocker and then install the fender?

[oldblue1968chevy]

Theres a junkyard north of me about 30 minutes that had a c20 with lots of trim etc

I need the pieces my sis junked for me