Jesses' 48 PU

[Jesse49chevy]

I used 3/16 metal and welded them on the rear with the nut secured on the inside for easy install.

[Jesse49chevy]

I got some new toys!!!

Eastwood TIG welder and plasma cutter...

The plasma made fast work of cutting the 1/8 metal. No more noisy cutting wheels

[Jesse49chevy]

Used cardboard to draw out the pieces. Transferred them to 1/8 metal and cut them with my plasma....

Did I mention I got a new toy???

[Jesse49chevy]

I tried TIG welding, but I need practice and this is not a piece I want to take that chance so MIG'd them.

[Jesse49chevy]

Left side, spot welded in for now. Will make some square 3/16 washers for final install.

[Jesse49chevy]

Right side, ran out of time so I will tackle to crossmember next weekend.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Jesse49chevy

Left side, spot welded in for now. Will make some square 3/16 washers for final install.

Looking real good. A thought on mounting the cab. Most of the builds, including mine, use a prothane bushing between the cab and frame. Before bolting it down for good, you may want to look into some of those. I think I just used some generic 2" discs for mine.




Plasma cutter looks like its doing real nice!

[joedoh]

holy strong floor!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Jesse49chevy

.....This way my nuts are centered.

Well, would ANY man tolerate off center nuts?

(Sorry, I couldn't pass up the lead in)

Really enjoying what I've read so far.

Question: What type of MIG welder are you using? I ask because I have a Hobart 140 that is supposed to be able to weld up to 3/16" but I have doubted if it can really get penetration on that thick material.

[Jesse49chevy]

Thanks guys...trying to do what I can to keep it going. I use my Millermatic 135 to Mig weld. I bevel the edges to get as much penetration and run it a bit hotter than suggested. I have yet to use my new Eastwood Mig 250. I bought it a while back but was put up all of this time. I finally put it together and as my luck would have it, it didn't work right so I sent it back. Just got the replacement but have yet to unbox it. Kinda skeptical now, but my Millermatic is old and acting up so guess I'll break it out soon...

[Jesse49chevy]

I fab'd and welded the new cross member/brace with the loop for driveshaft clearance. I had a piece of 2x5 with 1/8 thick wall laying around. Bought the loop from Jegs and got busy. Turned out okay I guess... Tried my Tig skills again, but failed, need practice... I was thinking of closing in the bottom to make it a solid piece, just feel it will flex with the bottom part open.

[Jesse49chevy]

OH yea, you can see the rear cab mounts I fab'd. I haven't welded them in just yet as I want to make sure nothing changed when I removed the original cross member. Oh and even worse, I have a huge dilemma... My rear axle is one inch off center... I realized that when I put in the driveshaft... Rookie mistake I guess. So now I get to redo that too... It's a 10 bolt I bought off craigslist came off a 2000 S10 blazer. A friend said I should cut one inch off one end and either add it on the other or add a wheel spacer if it clears the frame.
I'm thinking if I'm going to do all that, might as well cut up a 9 inch or 8.8 Ford diff..
Need advise guys, what is my best option. I am running an LS engine with a 4L60.

[Jesse49chevy]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Looking real good. A thought on mounting the cab. Most of the builds, including mine, use a prothane bushing between the cab and frame. Before bolting it down for good, you may want to look into some of those. I think I just used some generic 2" discs for mine.




Plasma cutter looks like its doing real nice!

Yes sir... I plan on using some polyurethane bushings...

[Jesse49chevy]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Well, would ANY man tolerate off center nuts?

(Sorry, I couldn't pass up the lead in)

Really enjoying what I've read so far.

Question: What type of MIG welder are you using? I ask because I have a Hobart 140 that is supposed to be able to weld up to 3/16" but I have doubted if it can really get penetration on that thick material.

Lol... I was wondering when someone would comment on my centered nuts...

[dsraven]

don't cut up the axle, just get a centered one or deal with the offset. if you do wanna cut up an axle might as well make it a tougher unit. the 8.8 is plentiful compared to the 9". if buying all new stuff it wouldn't matter. the 8.8 is usually offset except in mustangs. lots of guys just redrill the axles and rotors for a chevy pattern. some cut the long side and make it the same length as the short side then use a short side axle in the cut off side. 8.8 comes with 3.73 ratio and posi with discs and an easy park brake set up. it's almost a 9" and is a copy of the 12 bolt almost too.
if using the offset diff you really have to look closely at the driveline angles both from the side and from the top view.
curious on the center cross member. do you plan to have a full circle (oblong) on the driveshaft loop?

[Jesse49chevy]

Originally Posted by dsraven

don't cut up the axle, just get a centered one or deal with the offset. if you do wanna cut up an axle might as well make it a tougher unit. the 8.8 is plentiful compared to the 9". if buying all new stuff it wouldn't matter. the 8.8 is usually offset except in mustangs. lots of guys just redrill the axles and rotors for a chevy pattern. some cut the long side and make it the same length as the short side then use a short side axle in the cut off side. 8.8 comes with 3.73 ratio and posi with discs and an easy park brake set up. it's almost a 9" and is a copy of the 12 bolt almost too.
if using the offset diff you really have to look closely at the driveline angles both from the side and from the top view.
curious on the center cross member. do you plan to have a full circle (oblong) on the driveshaft loop?

Dsraven, thanks for the advise. I have a decision to make but this axle is not worth the time cutting it up. It's a full inch off so, I'm afraid it will wobble, and damage the u-joints or other parts. I'll either find a centered one or go with a 8.8 as you mention. As far as the loop, at first I did not plan in closing it up, but after I welded it in, I think it will flex so was thinking of closing in the bottom side to make it rigid. Thoughts?

[HAULIN' IT]

When you say "its an inch off center", are you talking the measurement from the frame to the wheel flange from one side compared to the other or are you talking the pinion is an inch off center (to the Right) in the frame when the rear end is properly centered in the frame? Lorne

[Jesse49chevy]

Hey Haulin'It, it's an offset diff. I failed to realize that when I bought it. The rear end is centered on the frame, but the pinion is one inch to the left. I ran a string from the center of the rear to the center of the engine. You can see how the driveshaft is off to the passenger side.

[Jesse49chevy]

The pinion is offset

[Jesse49chevy]

Did something different today, my job requires that I travel, so when I'm home on the weekends I try to split my time between family and truck/projects. My daughter blessed us with our first grandchild last year. She sent me a text with a picture one day this week and asked "dad can you build this?" It's for the baby.

[Jesse49chevy]

When my only daughter asks and says its for my only grandchild....well I guess everything else can wait.... I pulled out the saws, drills and a quick trip to Home Depot and waalaaaa!!!!

[Jesse49chevy]

[oldman3]

Nice job...Jim

[slammed57]

came out great!

[HAULIN' IT]

Originally Posted by Jesse49chevy

Hey Haulin'It, it's an offset diff. I failed to realize that when I bought it. The rear end is centered on the frame, but the pinion is one inch to the left. I ran a string from the center of the rear to the center of the engine. You can see how the driveshaft is off to the passenger side.

Ok, That is what I expected, just wanted you to confirm. You threw me off for a second there with the part about: "One inch to the Left". That is going to get you in trouble working on vehicles. The passenger's side is always the RIGHT. Doesn't matter if you are looking at it from the front or back, sitting in it or sitting on the couch talking about it...the passenger's side is always the RIGHT.

On to the rear end. There is nothing wrong with what you have. That will go MANY miles just like that without ever giving you a problem! What is important is that you have the driveline angles correct or real close to correct, the U-joints phased on the driveshaft, ect. If your truck has a vibration when its done, look elsewhere because the off-set is not going to be the problem.
Think of it this way...your engine/transmission & rear end are most likely not exactly the same height off the ground. Basically no vehicle is. There will be
variation up/down. Likewise proper alignment for a street driven vehicle does not point the transmission directly at the pinion.
Envision if you turned your truck on its side...you would have the same thing you do now...the engine/transmission would be one inch higher than the pinion, Correct? That's what U-joints are for. Click on the link below, that photo has been around forever & shows what you're looking for. It shows the off-set to the driver's side but that is just for reference...what matters is the parallel units, engine/trans & rear axle. Put er together! Lorne
https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...j_RJH8bYgAAAA&