63-87 rack and pinion

[Last_Paladin]

Any ideas on an 18X10 rim offset that clears the bolts on this?

Finally figured out why it was so hard to push this thing.

[elorenzof]

i have a stock 1970 c10. i want to install your rack and pinion kit. My engine is in the "forward" holes on the frame. is there different motor mounts (currently stock) that will allow them to be installed in the "rearward holes" (the mounts) that will free up the "forward holes" w/o moving the engine? any suggestions or other members solutions please!

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by elorenzof

i have a stock 1970 c10. i want to install your rack and pinion kit. My engine is in the "forward" holes on the frame. is there different motor mounts (currently stock) that will allow them to be installed in the "rearward holes" (the mounts) that will free up the "forward holes" w/o moving the engine? any suggestions or other members solutions please!

Look up the page a bit. This what Mjminino and many others have done. Works just the same.

[dirtyjim]

what I've seen with the 73 up trucks was that it would not clear the with the 73 up press in bushing lower control arms, but would work with aftermarket or 72 down screw in bushings. I think there was a few pics showing the clearance issue and I also think I read that it would clear the press in bushing after doing the castor mod to the lower control arm shafts

[aggie91]

I put one of NL kits in an '82. It would not clear with the stock arms with the stock bushings. I switched to the Porterbuilt lower forward arms and had no issues with it after that. Worked out really well and made a huge difference in how the truck drove and handled.

[G8DAN]

Thanks guys for the response. I have some porterbuilt arms already so I will moving forward with this kit.

[Mjminino]

I am running a 5.3 from a 2001 suburban in my 66 C10. I am at a 3.5/5 drop as well as using the control arms from a 64 C10 (so I shouldn't have clearance issues, from what i have read). From my understanding on this thread, the power steering lines i would use are the ones from the 01 suburban and then I would be golden? also since a bunch of you have done this already, what steering shaft and joints did you use. Part numbers would be awesome to just click and buy. Thanks in advance!

Mike

[robnolimit]

everything you have wil work together. And, yes, the OE lines from the '01 Suburban will fit nicely.
When it comes to the steering connection, the question of "What column do you have?" comes in. The stock column can work, but it is pretty long, and forces the max steering angle in the top U-Joint. Here are three ways.

BEST: Call IDIDIT and order a "Short" column for your truck. Tilt, with-or-without a shifter on the column. This will fit in you OE mounts. Use a Borgeson or Flaming River U-Joint that is 3/4" x 36 spline on one side and 3/4" DD on the other. You will need about 16" of 3/4" DD shaft.

Better. Shorten the OE column so that the column outer tube passes through the floor by 1", and the inner steering shaft sticks out 1 1/2" from the tube. This is a LOT of work. see the option above.

Good. Use your OE column, but shorten the steering shaft. Cut the steering shaft appx 1" out from the tube. The OE shaft is 3/4" diameter. Very carefully use a grinder/sander/file to cut two flat spots on the shaft so that you can use a 3/4" DD type U-Joint. Use a 3/4"DD x 3/4"DD U-Joint and 16" of 3/4" DD shaft.

Works. (sort-of). Use the OE column as is. You will need a 3/4" x 36 spline to 3/4" DD u-Joint and 13" of 3/4" DD shaft. This will max out the U-Joint angle, and you may feel a tight spot every 1/2 turn. We don't really recommend this. U-Joint failure may occur with the U-Joint maxed out. - see options above.

Stay away from cheaper columns and U-joints. I know it's more $$ to spend, but this is not the place to cut corners. We have seen many failures with low quality columns and U-Joints.

[Mjminino]

I went with your 'BEST' solution above and got a 32" universal Ididit column. Now every aspect of the trucks steering and suspension is new.

Finally got everything installed. It looks great and I am happy.

Here are a few pictures.


Very good quality.



I had to cut the excess stud off the LCA U-joint

All mocked up.

Getting excited at this point.

Getting EXTREMELY excited now!

Hole for steering shaft, which i still need to weld the front lip.



All done!!!!!!



It caught me by surprise when the power steering lines (3 pieces) were 104$ from Napa. (2 pressure hoses and the low pressure fitting)







Here is a little video of it working. excuse the language, flaming river sent huge set screws. Which I have since gotten corrected.

'66 C10

[robnolimit]

Nice job. Passing through the motor mount is a little more work but mechanically is fine, and lets the motor stay in place. The short column is a big plus. I'm with you on Falming River's extra long set screws, but those are easily replaced with shorter ones. Looks great, i'm sure you will be happy with it. Thanks for posting.

[DieselSJ]

I didn't see these on the No Limit website. I'm looking for a setup for my 87 R30. I read where there were clearance issues on trucks with stock lower arms and press-in bushings. I believe my R30 has screw-in style from the factory. So would one of these fit? Are they still available? I'm looking at a complete rebuild right now and I would love to do one of these swaps instead.

Thanks!

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by DieselSJ

I didn't see these on the No Limit website. I'm looking for a setup for my 87 R30. I read where there were clearance issues on trucks with stock lower arms and press-in bushings. I believe my R30 has screw-in style from the factory. So would one of these fit? Are they still available? I'm looking at a complete rebuild right now and I would love to do one of these swaps instead.

Thanks!

Here is the kit in NL's online store:

http://www.nolimit.net/products#!/C-...tegory=6157532

You are correct that they have issues with the stock press in bushings on the lower arms of a 73-87 1/2T truck. I had to convert my lower arms to Porterbuilt Forward Arms when I did mine.

Given that the C30 arms are similar to the lowers on a 63-72 truck with the screw in steel bushings, it should work ok. I have seen pics of the rack installed on a '66 with factory lower control arms. It cleared the bushings fine.

Your best bet would be to call and talk to Rob at NL to discuss about using his rack on your truck.

[Last_Paladin]

Can we still call in and get forum pricing?

I want to put this on a truck I am building with Ride Tech arms and coil overs.

[robnolimit]

Check the drivers side mount. Some of the early racks had a pocketed rubber bushing. We replace them with a red urethane bushing. (see picts above) if you have the black rubber bushing, contact us and we will wend you a new one. Thanks.

[akdg87]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Check the drivers side mount. Some of the early racks had a pocketed rubber bushing. We replace them with a red urethane bushing. (see picts above) if you have the black rubber bushing, contact us and we will wend you a new one. Thanks.

yup i have the the black rubber one. thanks for the heads up- ill email you guys.

[MeanGreen72C10]

I just bought this kit from no limit web site, I have an early 90s power steering pump with a low pressure return which lines should I order for this to function properly. I spoke with Tina at NO Limit but they just told me lines from a 2000 chevy I dont know if that takes into account a low pressure return line..

thanks guys!

[robnolimit]

The rack also uses low pressure return. So using the 2000 chevy return hose, one end will fit and thread into the rack, the other end can be trimmed to fit and then clamped over the input tube on the pump.

[G8DAN]

I ended up going with a 20x11 with -10 offset. It now clears, but anything in the positive it would not clear.

[smbrouss70]

Rob, I'm finally getting around to getting my rack and pinion that I got from you installed. I have a set of PB control arms that are 1" forward and 1" narrowed. Would there be any benefit (geometry-wise) in spacing the rack forward on the bracket to account for the modified arms? It looks like I can safely space it out about 3/4" before the fluid lines get too close to the front crossmember.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

Rob, I'm finally getting around to getting my rack and pinion that I got from you installed. I have a set of PB control arms that are 1" forward and 1" narrowed. Would there be any benefit (geometry-wise) in spacing the rack forward on the bracket to account for the modified arms? It looks like I can safely space it out about 3/4" before the fluid lines get too close to the front crossmember.

Steven,

I used Rob's rack on the red '82 we built about 7 years ago. We had the original PB forward arms on that truck. I did discuss with Rob this same idea, but he told me to install it the way it was designed. I did, no issues at all and the truck drove and handled great!.

[smbrouss70]

Thanks Karl, that's good to know. I did mock it up with it spaced forward 3/4" and I'm not seeing much difference between the 2 ways, but I figured I would check since I'm not a suspension geometry genius like Rob.

[biketopia]

Rob hasn't been on since October, I would call no limit, they are super friendly and helpful over the phone!

[Skinsman]

Thanks for the heads up biketopia! Yes, I can see Rob is fantastic with being helpful & he is the kind of builder I'd strive to be! Amazing guy!

[tallic68]

Some of the other kits I’ve seen say they may not or will not work with 5.3 truck low mount power steering pumps. Does anyone know if this kit will work with low mount ps pump on 02 5.3 truck LS?

[Custom 68]

Originally Posted by tallic68

Some of the other kits I’ve seen say they may not or will not work with 5.3 truck low mount power steering pumps. Does anyone know if this kit will work with low mount ps pump on 02 5.3 truck LS?

I was going to try to get some pictures but with the holidays it has been busy. I will say that I have this on mine and the stock 02 5.3 PS pump clears. I will also say it is dependent on how and where the engine is mounted. Since the rack portion is mounted to the front cross member this location is fixed. The variable is on the engine placement. There are quite a few options that move them up and down as well as front to rear. Some of these variations could lead to some interference with something. I will try to get some photos in the next couple days as I remember mine was close to something but I don't remember for sure.
I had built my own mounts so mine is sitting different than most others out there.
Long story but yes it will work but some checks will need to be made.
Dave