Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Brian, you know Vic well enough half aceing isn't part of his repertoire . Nice work Vic!

LOL! He knows I gotta poke him in the ribs from time to time.
Vic is a good engineer and a good engineer builds robustness into his designs, trust me he knows it was overkill because it's obvious two bolts would have done the job just fine, which is why my remark is funny and I'm sure at the very least I got a half smile out of it.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Xeen

LOL! He knows I gotta poke him in the ribs from time to time.
Vic is a good engineer and a good engineer builds robustness into his designs, trust me he knows it was overkill because it's obvious two bolts would have done the job just fine, which is why my remark is funny and I'm sure at the very least I got a half smile out of it.

Yep, Brian, sometimes cosmetics overrides practicality.

Speaking of cosmetics, I've been tinkering with the radiator cover the last couple of days. The fan controller sits on top of the shroud and is adjustable, so my first thought was to build a cover with a window in it that would allow me to easily access the box. To do that, I built a stair-stepped panel which fit around the controller okay, but looked way too busy. So onto the junk pile it went. Plan B looks nicer but will require that I remove the panel for any adjustments. That shouldn't be an issue once the limits are set... if they even need to move from the vendor settings.

And the reason I used five fasteners was due to a screw up. Failed to notice there was a large hole in the core support right where I drilled one of the fastener holes. So (full disclosure) there are four tapped holes and one dummy. Well, two if you count me.

[nuke1]

Truck is turning out amazing!!! hope to get mine that nice once again!!!!

[Low Elco]

Whatever you do, Don't let Vern see that cover. You'll be busier than you wanna be!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Whatever you do, Don't let Vern see that cover. You'll be busier than you wanna be!

You know I'll drop whatever I'm doing if Vern wants a cover for the Jimmy. You been massaging it any this winter?

[Low Elco]

Nope, it hasn’t moved since October. I’ve been.... busy.





Hope this works.

[knomadd]

CRLS is looking good Vic! Keep it up, you'll get it done in no time (or it will seem like it to you, once you've finished it). That's how it feels for me now... the wife reminds me that is not the case... She told me this past weekend it's been "2 years since you last drove it." I had to remind her it was only 17 months.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by knomadd

CRLS is looking good Vic! Keep it up, you'll get it done in no time (or it will seem like it to you, once you've finished it). That's how it feels for me now... the wife reminds me that is not the case... She told me this past weekend it's been "2 years since you last drove it." I had to remind her it was only 17 months.

Thanks, Duane! We plan to attend the LMC Truck show in Fort Worth the first of May, so I have a solid deadline now. We passed the five year mark this month, but who's counting, right?

The wiring job is slowly winding down. I modified the console slightly and test fit it over all the bundles of snakes this morning and it looks like it will clear everything. I still have a few questions on the GMPP harness that came with the powertrain. The info is out there, I'm sure, but it's tough to find. Most build threads are geared toward modifying OEM harnesses but my GMPP unit has a few undocumented features.

There are three pigtails shown in the attached photo.

One has four wires labeled A-BRK LIGHT, B-CAL A/B, C-CANCEL O/D and D-DYNO. I don't think I need any of these for my setup.

Another has a VEH SPD label on it and has a purple/white wire and a green/black wire. According to the internet, the purple is VSS high and the green is VSS low. Pretty sure they feed into the Classic Instruments SN74Z interface box and provide the pulses for the speedometer.

The third pigtail has three loose wires for engine oil pressure, speed out and RPM. I figure the oil pressure feed won't play nice with the Classic Instruments gauge, so I installed their sender instead and will truncate the GMPP wire. The speed out wire is needed for the Hot Rod Therapy cruise control. I'm hoping the RPM signal will drive the tach. I think it sends pulses consistent with a 4 cylinder and as long as you set the tach for that, it will work. At least I hope so. The SN74Z interface box can do either speed or tach but not both. Don't even want to think about buying another one.

[Vic1947]

My "Painful" wiring project is just about done. Mostly just the amps and speakers left to do. Hard to believe how much is needed for all the gizmos. The radio has a microphone for the Bluetooth and VR, and I failed to route the wire inside the A-pillar like I did for the camera and map lights. So it gets routed up next to the door seal where it will clip on the visor. Won't be able to tell hardly at all when it's done. I'll hook up the push button start after the truck is running and sorted out.

Need to get the glass guys out to install the windshield and back glass. I could do it myself if I didn't mind them leaking.

[rustytruck50]

Really like the treatment on the gauges & glove box door!

[jeh]

That dash with the black looks great!!!!

[Low Elco]

Slowly, but Surely....

[knomadd]

Looks great Vic! Keep it up, you're almost there.

[Vic1947]

Thanks, everyone. I've been going back over fittings and re-tightening them all. The power steering reservoir is full and I used the vacuum fill tool to check for leaks in the cooling system (none) and then load the system with DexCool antifreeze. Worked like a charm... probably the first time I've ever performed that task without making a mess.

The outside mirrors arrived recently. They're APR GT3 carbon fiber pieces. I weighed one on the digital scale and it came in at 5.6 oz. I hope I can mount them in the small triangles that came with the one piece windows.

I need to bleed the brakes and put in some 93 octane and I think I'll be ready to fire off this puppy in a few days. I haven't been able to get in touch with the guys that installed my last two windshields... think they may be out of business. I'm probably going to just do it myself. I've done a few (many years ago). Mostly Chevy cars, but the principle is the same. I'm thinking about upgrading to the windshield gasket with the stainless reveal molding. Was wondering if anyone has any experience with that (good or bad)?

[rustytruck50]

You've got to be getting pretty excited! Looks great!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

You've got to be getting pretty excited! Looks great!

Yep, won't be long now, hopefully. Still have a few things to do, though. Today was devoted mainly to the brakes. Scott came over this afternoon to assist, but it seems like all we did was chase leaks. Unlike the cooling system, I think 9 out of 10 connections leaked. I'm not sure why all the issues. Everything in the system is new. Hard lines, rubber lines, fittings, brakes, m/c... you name it. Not one used part in the whole dealio. Some of the connections had to be tightened 4-5 times to get them to stop weeping. Way back, I thought about converting all the double flare connections to AN. Now I wish I had. I reckon when the hydraulic boost pressure hits the system, I'll be back chasing leaks and cussing again.

And to add insult to injury, I still have no brake pedal. Bled the m/c till all the air bubbles were gone, then reverse bled the lines till no bubbles. Pedal goes all the way to the floor and won't pump up. So there still has to be a significant amount of air in it somewhere. The tool I'm using can force fluid thru the orifices in the m/c, so I may try that tomorrow... or gravity bleed, although I've never had much luck with that. One way or the other, I'll get 'er done.

[Jason7121]

Hi Vic thought I would chime in on the window moldings. After several attempts with mine and 4 different glass shops I got mine done. The trick for us was to use precision brand weatherstrips and factory stainless trim that we polished. Aftermarket trim fits terrible. There were 2 different used on these trucks a deep groove and shallow groove trim the deep one works better to hold trim in the gasket. Whatever trim you get make sure gasket matches either deep or shallow. As far as brakes go I had same issue your having. I had luck bleeding the system with engine running and using the hydroboost to help push fluid through the system and also adjusting the hydroboost push rod until there was 1/2 Freeplay. Hope this helps your build looks great!

[rustytruck50]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

And to add insult to injury, I still have no brake pedal. Bled the m/c till all the air bubbles were gone, then reverse bled the lines till no bubbles. Pedal goes all the way to the floor and won't pump up. So there still has to be a significant amount of air in it somewhere. The tool I'm using can force fluid thru the orifices in the m/c, so I may try that tomorrow... or gravity bleed, although I've never had much luck with that. One way or the other, I'll get 'er done.

That brake stuff is/can be unnecessarily frustrating. I fought that last summer with my '72. The m/c that the parts store swore up & down was correct turned out to be wrong. I couldn't get the brakes to bleed by gravity or with a hand vacuum pump. Once I looked it up myself on another parts store website & had them cross check the number, the problem was solved & reassured myself that I did remember how to do brakes! You may have been given the wrong master on yours to have it do the same thing....just a idea. I'm sure you'll get it figured out.

[rustytruck50]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

And to add insult to injury, I still have no brake pedal. Bled the m/c till all the air bubbles were gone, then reverse bled the lines till no bubbles. Pedal goes all the way to the floor and won't pump up. So there still has to be a significant amount of air in it somewhere. The tool I'm using can force fluid thru the orifices in the m/c, so I may try that tomorrow... or gravity bleed, although I've never had much luck with that. One way or the other, I'll get 'er done.

That brake stuff is/can be unnecessarily frustrating. I fought that last summer with my '72. The m/c that the parts store swore up & down was correct turned out to be wrong. I couldn't get the brakes to bleed by gravity or with a hand vacuum pump. Once I looked it up myself on another parts store website & had them cross check the number, the problem was solved & reassured myself that I did remember how to do brakes! You may have been given the wrong master on yours to have it do the same thing....just a idea. I'm sure you'll get it figured out.

[Jason7121]

Yeah check push rod between hydroboost and master cylinder for adjustment if pushrod is to shallow pedal will have alot of Freeplay and go to the floor.

[Aberdare]

Originally Posted by Jason7121

Yeah check push rod between hydroboost and master cylinder for adjustment if pushrod is to shallow pedal will have alot of Freeplay and go to the floor.

Yep... probably the single most overlooked item when mating new parts together. After mating the master cylinder to booster, adjusting the pedal to booster rod free play should bring everything into proper working order.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Jason7121

Hi Vic thought I would chime in on the window moldings. After several attempts with mine and 4 different glass shops I got mine done. The trick for us was to use precision brand weatherstrips and factory stainless trim that we polished. Aftermarket trim fits terrible. There were 2 different used on these trucks a deep groove and shallow groove trim the deep one works better to hold trim in the gasket. Whatever trim you get make sure gasket matches either deep or shallow. As far as brakes go I had same issue your having. I had luck bleeding the system with engine running and using the hydroboost to help push fluid through the system and also adjusting the hydroboost push rod until there was 1/2 Freeplay. Hope this helps your build looks great!

Thanks, Jason, your advice on the trim is what makes this forum so valuable. I've been on the fence about converting to the reveal trim as I think it looks very nice. However, like anyone else that's purchased aftermarket trim from the various vendors, I figured it might be tough to work with... not to mention the heartburn if it doesn't turn our well. I had to go great lengths to get the aftermarket stainless drip rail trim to fit, so I'm thinking maybe I'll give the windshield trim a pass. Besides, apparently they don't make the matching trim for the small rear window so it would be plain anyway.

How are things in Visalia? I bought my first '69 GTO RA4 Judge from Arnold Wiebe there when I was stationed in Lemoore. Had to bribe Kathy with ice cream to get her to "just go look at it".

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

That brake stuff is/can be unnecessarily frustrating. I fought that last summer with my '72. The m/c that the parts store swore up & down was correct turned out to be wrong. I couldn't get the brakes to bleed by gravity or with a hand vacuum pump. Once I looked it up myself on another parts store website & had them cross check the number, the problem was solved & reassured myself that I did remember how to do brakes! You may have been given the wrong master on yours to have it do the same thing....just a idea. I'm sure you'll get it figured out.

Fortunately, I got the entire unit (hydraulics, m/c, linkage, etc.) from CPP so it's all correct. Turns out the problem was mainly air in the system. I have a Phoenix Systems "one man" bleeder setup. They make it look easy, but I can't seem to achieve the same results. It does fill the lines quickly, but there's always residual air. Today, Kathy and I used the old reliable method of one person pumping the brake pedal and the other cracking open the bleeder valves. Two trips around the truck and we had pretty good pedal. Will give it one more go after the engine is running and the hydraulic assist is functional. The really good news was that there were no new leaks. At least until the assist kicks in.

Originally Posted by Aberdare

Yep... probably the single most overlooked item when mating new parts together. After mating the master cylinder to booster, adjusting the pedal to booster rod free play should bring everything into proper working order.

I may need to revisit the free play once it's running. I adjusted the threaded rod coming out of the back of the Hydra-Stop just to where there's no preload. I can rotate the rod maybe a half turn back and forth between the spots where it tightens up, so I split the difference and snugged up the jam nut.

Rest of the day was spent sorting out a few electrical gremlins. The only thing left is the E-Stopp parking brake. It worked great when I tested it during the installation. However, when I applied power to it the the other day, it partially set the brake and quit. Now it just beeps. So I'll be on the hook with them tomorrow to see if they have any suggestions.

[Jason7121]

Everything is good here in Visalia that dealer you mentioned is no longer there. I worked at Visalia GMC for several years now in Selma at Chev dealer. I forgot you had small rear window so your right no molding��

[ChuckLee]

I had those APR GT3 mirrors on a RX7 last year. They look sweet....just hope you never need to use them in any functional way lol.

[knomadd]

It's been too long since I've been on the forum, I had some suggestions for you on the window trim and the brakes, but everyone else has already said them, and you've pretty much figured it out. That's why this forum is so great! So many members willing to help out when they can.

Oh, to add to the window trim info, I've found out the '70 and older stuff is the better windshield stainless. The tab is centered in the gasket, not just deeper. The '71 & '72 trim has an offset and shallower tab, and my glass guy swears they are a pain in the rear to get seated properly. And he told me if I bought aftermarket stuff he wouldn't touch it. I haven't had him install my trim yet though. I need a new windshield first. I'm just enjoying driving it too much to pull it apart again.