Finally my 49 s10 frame swap ls1/t56

[49chevy3100]

Do plan on getting a bigger cam for turbo set up not sure which one yet maybe one from Brian tooley racing. But want to make sure heads are ready to go.

[OutlawDrifter]

Originally Posted by 49chevy3100

Do plan on getting a bigger cam for turbo set up not sure which one yet maybe one from Brian tooley racing. But want to make sure heads are ready to go.

Dual springs wear faster, just food for thought. You can get beehives that will easily support .600" lift, I'm running a set in my Z28, and the cam is .595/.585 and 230/232 duration. I wanted to avoid having to change springs every 10k miles, 40k+ on a set of beehives appeals to me much better.

Not trying to derail your vision, just playing devils advocate.

I left the LQ4 in my '49 is bone stock(aside from intake setup). It idles great, has fantastic street manners, and is dead reliable. I went overboard on the Z28, the clutch is probably the worst part, it's in or out, no slipping it. Not fun in stop and go traffic.

In all the BTR cams I've looked through, I want to try the Level/Stage 2 Truck Cam. Can still use a stock stall converter, LS6/LS2 valve springs, stock push rods, and it has just enough "lope" to know it has a cam. I think a 5.3 with a set of 243/799 heads and a Level 2 Truck Cam would be a fun cruiser set up. Lots of low to mid range torque, and near stock drivability and reliability.

[49chevy3100]

Will definitely look into that, coming from building fast turbo Hondas always used dual valve springs never had an issue so that’s why I was looking into dual valve springs set up will see what I can manage to buy tryna keep it low cost but building an engine is never cheap haha

[49chevy3100]

Took out the cam rollers out today super sludged up but all looked good no marks and camshaft looked great well from what I could see by looking down got looks of cleaning to do still. Piston walls still have cross-hatch marking so maybe piston stamping from it being rebuilt at some point

[OutlawDrifter]

I have pulled numerous LS blocks apart with 130k+ miles on them that still had perfect crosshatch in the bores.

[49chevy3100]

Originally Posted by OutlawDrifter

I have pulled numerous LS blocks apart with 130k+ miles on them that still had perfect crosshatch in the bores.

Only reason I mention maybe rebuilt pistons look like the 5.3s but mission the T marking in the middle and they have numbers stamped into it but nothing clear comes up when googled just two websites for turbo pistons

[49chevy3100]

More engine photos more sludge, was able to pick up some parts from a local for cheap alternator bracket 2 complete intake manifolds stock exhaust manifols and power steering pump ac pump with bracket

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by 49chevy3100

More engine photos more sludge, was able to pick up some parts from a local for cheap alternator bracket 2 complete intake manifolds stock exhaust manifols and power steering pump ac pump with bracket

Call Mike Rowe. That's a dirty job!

[49chevy3100]

I got a lot of parts cleaned and prepped for paint valve covers,oil pan, timing cover. I got the oil pick up tube cleaned and Windage tray cleaned won’t be painting these also have the heads cleaned out, haven’t ripped into the block yet. I did manage to finish the cab mounts and get them spot welded onto the frame will be getting the 2x1 inch square tubing later today to finally test fit the cab and fully weld in the mounts. Will post pictures later today

[joedoh]

oof you need a big ultrasonic machine full of diesel for that sludge. maybe fill a 55 gallon drum halfway and bolt a washing machine motor with an offset bolt on the shaft so it vibrates, and just let it run for a week haha.

[dsraven]

i'm sure you know already but keep the lifters in order so they go back in the same place, they get "sister'd" with a wear pattern to the cam so to prevent premature wear when assembling it is a good idea to keep the lifter in the same hole. a piece of 2x6 with some holes drilled to fit the lifters works pretty good, just remember to mark front
oven cleaner and hot water (after sitting with oven cleaner for a bit) works pretty good for sludge but don't get it on any bearings that you will be using again.

[49chevy3100]

Yea too bad the heads where already taken apart when I got the engine I recieved a box full of parts push rods, lifters and coils so just thinking if I should just get all new parts or just go ahead and just reuse em all they hardly have any markings

[49chevy3100]

Finally got cab test fitted cab sits high enough that I will have room to weld them in

[49chevy3100]

Back again, the 5.3 is all finished up plans changed on the t56 will be doing a AR5 transmission out of a 2007 Colorado 5 speed fabbot sells the kit that allows you to use the 4l60e bell housing to mount up the transmission to a LS style engine. So far cleaned up front half of the frame primered and painted, installed brake booster and lines installed the ford 8.8 rear end bleed the brakes all working fine, installed the wilwood clutch pedal. Mocked up engine, mocked up steering column will have to move 2” to left since some how I missed that while reading the S10 HOW TO. Already have radiator support made will have to lock up and redo mounting since I changed my mind about the front bar style mount and will do the side mount instead.

[49chevy3100]

Finally getting back to it rough time but finally got access to a lift at the shop I work at so since then I now have all the turbo parts already upgraded to a walbro 450 fuel pump bought turbo truck style manifold gt45 turbo front mount intercooler 1200cc injectors 60mm waste gate, tail blow off valve, Holley terminator x ecu with 3.5” hand held also bought the 7” display for my gauges, black leather bench seat from Acura mdx fits nice. Installed 2/3 lowering kit came with shocks spindles and lowering blocks for the rear. Some pics of the turbo cross over need to wire wheel and ceramic coat it

[49chevy3100]

Mocking up down pipe for fender exit also started to mock up the wastegate off the manifold and filling down pipe to fender exit will have more pictures Monday

[49chevy3100]

Finished partial mock up of down pipe installed cross-over pipe and wastegate dump tube, removed front grill to finally align the fenders and do the brackets for radiator support. Once that is done I’ll use 3.5” hole saw on lower rear of fender gif the down pipe exit and finish that off with support brackets and hangers. Also intercooler mounting and pipe routing coming up

[49chevy3100]

Got the radiator support brackets welded up and more parts installed front end aligned intercooler mounted up, intercooler piping get here today so will be installing those tomorrow

[jjzepplin]

Oh boy! I have to read this whole thread.

[49chevy3100]

Had forgot to mention that I got engine running prior to deciding to just turbo instead of going all motor, I noticed the 706 heads I had installed had the infamous casting crack or bad casting and passenger head was spotless and had coolant build up so removed heads got a new set ended up doing trunion kit up grade ls7 lifters pac 1219 springs ls9 5 layer head gaskets and sloppy stage 2 cam. Forget what heads I ended up picking up 802 I think got resurfaced and engine went back together.

Present day Update got my hands on a 3D printer and been messing around with it found acouple files on thingaverse like Holley 7” display mount and terminator x bulkhead firewall brackets so printed those out including a 3.5” display mount.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by 49chevy3100

Present day Update got my hands on a 3D printer and been messing around with it found acouple files on thingaverse like Holley 7” display mount and terminator x bulkhead firewall brackets so printed those out including a 3.5” display mount.

You know darn well that's an air fryer from Costco man, that ain't no 3D printer!!

[dsraven]

ive never worked with 3d printed parts, how much heat can they handle? is the plastic filament expensive, like how much filament would it take to build one of your spacers?

[49chevy3100]

Originally Posted by dsraven

ive never worked with 3d printed parts, how much heat can they handle? is the plastic filament expensive, like how much filament would it take to build one of your spacers?

You would have to use abs filament or one of the other filaments high heat resistant, I bought a 2 lb roll for like 20$ and been making A lot of stuff and I’m barely hitting half way if that even been making a lot of action figures for my son �� they have a lot of super mario files with move able parts so he enjoying the printer more than I am but I did see they have the radio delete plate file to print so I might print that and drill holes for switches or just have for replacement

[49chevy3100]

My friend got back from his vacation and was able to weld blow off flange for me my aluminum tig welding skills still need practicing 😂 and finished up the rest of the intercooler piping routing now just waiting on fuse/relay box to show up and can start install the Holley harness and wire up the cooling fan.

[dsraven]

thats a lot of stuff packed into a small area. will you fab up some inner fenders or just leave that area open?