Brake booster questions - need help!

[BossHogg69]

I pulled the black painted booster off my '69, and I have no idea if the truck originally came with power brakes or not. For a little background, my grandfather restified the truck back in '91, adding a/c, a 454 (had 307), turbo 400 (had pg) and made the interior look like a '72 (door panels, wood grain decals on dash/glovebox). He even used the '72 only BB motor mounts when he swapped in the 454. So for all I know, he may have added power brakes during this process. I am now completely going through the truck and updating everything. So, that being said, I don't even know what a factory '69 power brake booster looks like. It looks like if you put the mounting surfaces together, the rod to the brake pedal on the new booster would still be too short.

Anyway, I ordered a brake booster from CPP after mine took a crap, and it's nothing like what was on my '69. Hopefully someone can offer some insight or help identify what the black booster in the pic came off of, or if i can make the CPP one work without too much trouble. I ordered the new booster months ago, so I doubt I'll be able to return it. I'm not in a serious bind, as the motor and tranny are out of the truck and I'll be converting it do 4 wheel discs, but I do need to know if this booster will work or not, or if I have the wrong booster altogether.

Thanks in advance for any insight offered here.

[Boog]

Hogg I think what you have here is the difference between a Delco/Moraine and a Kelsey Hayes booster.I don't know which is which,both were used back then. Somebody will no doubt jump in with more info for you.

[clinebarger]

your new one is a replacment booster. your old one looks like a later booster 73 up. i have two P/B trucks they have a bell-crank style linkage between the booster and firewall. you need to get the bracket and bell-crank off a factory P/B truck. ill take some pics if needed?

[BossHogg69]

yeah, I had a sneaky feeling the one i pulled off was a 73-up, but i wasn't sure. yes, any and all pics of a stock booster setup would be welcome. My pedal assembly is all stock, so I just need to know what to do to make this work. Thanks guys for the help so far!

[clinebarger]

heres some pics of my 70 it has a brace from the backside of booster to the firewall that my 69 CST 10 doesnt?

[clinebarger]

The 69

[clinebarger]

another of the 69 had to resize

[mbgmike]

It looks like they sent you a 11" single diaphragm booster (delco Style)
The black one looks like an 11" dual diaphragm booster Delco .
The black one was used from 1972 until the early 1990.'s like 1993.
CPP sent you a booster probably based on what you told them. That is a correct replacement booster for a 1/2 ton pickup no matter the motor size
Not quite sure on the rod that is used on the Black one. the one from CPP should use a Kz rod. if used with the bracket shown in the posts below it will work fine.

The black one is more for 3/4 tons . If you want one we have them in stock.
If you have brake problems email us

If you need the bell crank assembly we have those to in stock

It was also used on the 1500 silverados and ss 454

[BossHogg69]

Thanks for the pics clinebarger, and thanks for the info mike! I will probably go back with what is proper for a '69 half ton, since I already have the booster and mike offers the bellcrank assembly. Hopefully I can dig up the bracket somewhere. I just hope everything works okay when I get it all swapped to 4-wheel discs. I have the motor out now, and just finished pressure washing and degreasing the frame today. I also have some wiring issues to sort out, but after I get my block back from the machine shop and patch up my jacked up wiring harness, brakes and suspension will be next.

Thanks again for all the help, pics and comments. I'll keep ya'll updated.

[mclairmo]

Encountered same thing on my 68 C10, PO installed a 73 and up booster. I bought a thrashed used 72 booster off Ebay for about $40 with all the brackets and push rod and then bought a rebuilt 67-72 booster from Autozone for $100, painted the old brackets from the used one I bought off Ebay and put it all together to give me a rebuilt factory correct booster assembly for about $140.

[BossHogg69]

I'm thinking I'll probably go that route to if I can find a decent one to rob the brackets from. I already have $150 in the booster, so there's no turning back now!

It's been quite a learning experience so far, since I starting taking this truck apart - my grandfather passed away before I got the truck from my dad, so I have no one to ask what was done and why. I'll have some pics posted of the tear down so far. I pressure washed and degreased the frame today, last weekend I pulled the motor and trans. I have a pile of engine parts and CPP suspension parts sitting in my garage along with plenty of junkyard scouring to do!

[310lissik_70'C10]

hey wats up man? hows that truck lookin? i have the same prob i bought a booster from AutoZone and it me and my budy couldnt figure out y there was screws sticking out of the booster and the firewall... soooo we thought 2 take out the screws for the firewall,mind u this is my first project. And so no i have a firewall that has screws b.c i grinded them out.
So now that i have read this i feel like a eDoT!lol, should i weld in the screws again? or should i buy some screws and and nuts for a bracket? b.c i need that bracket...... did u find one? ebay? and any tips on wat i should do w. the truck? im a noob. but love the classics and ect.

[fryed_1]

Better to revive and old thread than start a new I guess?

Got this same 73+ setup including internal rod and all from a late 80's 2500 burb given to me over the weekend. Booster with the bracket riveted on. I can see how to make the adapter work to the firewall, but will I need the brake pedal setup from a donor truck or will this work with the existing pedal setup on my 71 c10 that didn't have power brakes originally equipped?

[Z10]

The first thing I would do is send the junk CPP booster back. I sent 2 of them back because they leaked and the third one did too, but I just gave up and bought a Tuff Stuff Booster from Summit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...del/c10-pickup

Also, their master cylinders leak also. Not a CPP fan.
The problem you'll soon run into is that when you try and return this leaky booster, ugly customer service will raise it's ugly head.

[davischevy]

Originally Posted by Z10

The first thing I would do is send the junk CPP booster back. I sent 2 of them back because they leaked and the third one did too, but I just gave up and bought a Tuff Stuff Booster from Summit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...del/c10-pickup

Also, their master cylinders leak also. Not a CPP fan.
The problem you'll soon run into is that when you try and return this leaky booster, ugly customer service will raise it's ugly head.

X2.

The last four boosters I have bought have leaked. They came from various suppliers, but I assume the same manufacturer in China.

[samkost]

I purchased from POL for my new Cadmium/Zinc plated Brake Booster.
Not installed yet on my 72' C10 restoration. Will be soon though.
I hope I don't have any issues with the quality of the part they offer.
Here is their link....https://www.performanceonline.com/home.php
Hope this helps as another possible avenue for you.
Good luck,
Sam

[Lowenuf]

both the Bendix and Delco-Moraine boosters are the same dimensions from NAPA, and are smaller than the originals.. I just replaced my D-M unit with one from NAPA, the only issue was that I couldnt reuse the booster brace from the firewall to the bolt where the master cylinder bolts on...

[davischevy]

Originally Posted by samkost

I purchased from POL for my new Cadmium/Zinc plated Brake Booster.
Not installed yet on my 72' C10 restoration. Will be soon though.
I hope I don't have any issues with the quality of the part they offer.
Here is their link....https://www.performanceonline.com/home.php
Hope this helps as another possible avenue for you.
Good luck,
Sam

Not to ruin your day, but the one I bought from POL was the first one that leaked. It is over here on the shelf. Looks good, but leaks. If I were you I would do a vacuum test before I installed it. They were no help at all. Said it was the vehicle. I detailed the original black one, and put it back on.

[BossHogg69]

Originally Posted by fryed_1

Better to revive and old thread than start a new I guess?

Got this same 73+ setup including internal rod and all from a late 80's 2500 burb given to me over the weekend. Booster with the bracket riveted on. I can see how to make the adapter work to the firewall, but will I need the brake pedal setup from a donor truck or will this work with the existing pedal setup on my 71 c10 that didn't have power brakes originally equipped?

All you 'should' need to do is change the pedal ratio/pivot from where the manual brake rod is attached to the pedal arm to the position where it would be for power brakes, then you'll probably have to whip up a pedal rod or adjuster to adapt to the booster. If I'm wrong on this, someone please correct me.

[BossHogg69]

Originally Posted by Z10

The first thing I would do is send the junk CPP booster back. I sent 2 of them back because they leaked and the third one did too, but I just gave up and bought a Tuff Stuff Booster from Summit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...del/c10-pickup

Also, their master cylinders leak also. Not a CPP fan.
The problem you'll soon run into is that when you try and return this leaky booster, ugly customer service will raise it's ugly head.

I ended up using a different booster, but I will add, I've bought quite a few things from CPP over the last 8 years and never had any problems, but I do understand their issues are well documented. Here is what I ended up with for a brake booster since originally posting this thread...

[samkost]

Thanks Larry for the heads up.
It's unfortunate that these nice looking boosters and brackets might not be up to par.
How would I go about testing this new booster.
A vacuum test or pressure test?
What are my best options to have this done.
I will need some direction to get this tested.
Restoring theses trucks with aftermarket resto parts can be challenging
Thanks again,
Sam

[Z10]

Here's what I'm using. Tuff Stuff booster and Wilwood master & proportioning valve.

[fryed_1]

Originally Posted by BossHogg69

All you 'should' need to do is change the pedal ratio/pivot from where the manual brake rod is attached to the pedal arm to the position where it would be for power brakes, then you'll probably have to whip up a pedal rod or adjuster to adapt to the booster. If I'm wrong on this, someone please correct me.

Yeah that's what I thought I just haven't climbed under the dash to look. Everything else looks like it should bolt up with very little work. I'll make sure to grab pics when I do it. Maybe not the *best* setup in the world, but definitely better than stock and for less than $50 at your average you-pull junkyard it is a cheap and easy upgrade.

[E.TexasTwister]

when you change to Disc-Disc you will need
a Disc-disc proportioning valve

[willij]

I had some of the same problems. Truck was stolen and striped from the radiator to the rearend,. including the booster mastercylinder and bracket. Had booster and master cylinder from a 1971 1/2 ton but mine is a 1970 3/4 ton with shoes front and back. First booster for 70 would not work because the ajuster was to short by about 1 1/2 inches, I was able to get a dual diaphram booster 10 1/2 inch that was for a 1971 front disks but shorter in length by two inches and it all went together fine.