A few bodywork questions, relating to the windshield area... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**68 Stepside** · 05-09-2004, 04:59 PM

Hey all,

I've got a few rust spots on the 68 that I'd like to take care of, and would like opinions on my options. I don't want to simply fill the holes with bondo, like the previous owner did (thanks a lot Mr. previous owner). Should I just fill the holes with weld, or should I fab a tiny plate to go into the hole, weld it in, and run some filler over it? Also, there's some nasty rust next to the holes, that I'm sure will reveal holes when I clean it up. The rust is on both sides, in the same spot. Any help would be great.

Thanks.

Sweet72 · 05-09-2004, 05:21 PM

I'm welding some small patch panels made from scrap 18ga. sheet metal for the same reason. You'll definitely have to remove the windshield to make the repairs.

68 Suburban · 05-09-2004, 06:38 PM

If you want to cheat, but get good long lasting results, por-15 has a putty that is awsume!

http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=8

mr402 · 05-09-2004, 06:56 PM

I found a good donor piller off a wrecked truck. Cut a few small pieces out of it and welded it in to the problem areas. That way I didn't have to figure out the curves or use too much bondo to create the pathces out of sheet metal. Course these days it is getting harder to find good parts trucks. It the very least I would weld some sheetmetal in there like Sweet 72 suggested. Those holes look to big to jst weld up.

LONGHAIR · 05-09-2004, 07:45 PM

The problem with trying to weld-up a rust hole like that is you end-up chasing it around. The hole looks small from the surface but the rust is more extensive and thins the surrounding area. The heat from welding burns the hole larger..........It can be done, but it takes some practice.

Personally I would Lead it up. Eastwood has everything you need and this is a great area to learn on. It is a small post rather than a big panel that you would have to worry about warping. Take the glass out, cut back into good metal and lead it. It works very well, that's why the factories have done it for so long.

*Gee_Emm* · 05-09-2004, 08:18 PM

Be prepared for alot worse when you take the glass out, once the glass is out and there is just pitting and no actual holes through the metal then I would use the por-15 putty and then put a coat of por-15 over top.

05-09-2004, 04:59 PM	#1
68 Stepside huh? Join Date: May 2000 Location: Washington, Illinois Posts: 5,692	A few bodywork questions, relating to the windshield area... Hey all, I've got a few rust spots on the 68 that I'd like to take care of, and would like opinions on my options. I don't want to simply fill the holes with bondo, like the previous owner did (thanks a lot Mr. previous owner). Should I just fill the holes with weld, or should I fab a tiny plate to go into the hole, weld it in, and run some filler over it? Also, there's some nasty rust next to the holes, that I'm sure will reveal holes when I clean it up. The rust is on both sides, in the same spot. Any help would be great. Thanks. Attached Images __________________ Someday when I'm lonely, Wishing you weren't so far away, Then I will remember Things we said today. RIP El Jay

05-09-2004, 05:21 PM	#2
Sweet72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Alexandria, VA Posts: 1,534	Window frame rust I'm welding some small patch panels made from scrap 18ga. sheet metal for the same reason. You'll definitely have to remove the windshield to make the repairs. __________________ '72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction.

05-09-2004, 06:38 PM	#3
68 Suburban Registered User Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ Posts: 6,802	If you want to cheat, but get good long lasting results, por-15 has a putty that is awsume! http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=8 __________________ Just sitting here contemplating contemplation.

05-09-2004, 06:56 PM	#4
mr402 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Elmira, Oregon Posts: 449	I found a good donor piller off a wrecked truck. Cut a few small pieces out of it and welded it in to the problem areas. That way I didn't have to figure out the curves or use too much bondo to create the pathces out of sheet metal. Course these days it is getting harder to find good parts trucks. It the very least I would weld some sheetmetal in there like Sweet 72 suggested. Those holes look to big to jst weld up.

05-09-2004, 07:45 PM	#5
LONGHAIR just can't cover up my redneck Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 11,414	The problem with trying to weld-up a rust hole like that is you end-up chasing it around. The hole looks small from the surface but the rust is more extensive and thins the surrounding area. The heat from welding burns the hole larger..........It can be done, but it takes some practice. Personally I would Lead it up. Eastwood has everything you need and this is a great area to learn on. It is a small post rather than a big panel that you would have to worry about warping. Take the glass out, cut back into good metal and lead it. It works very well, that's why the factories have done it for so long.

05-09-2004, 08:18 PM	#6
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 4,002	Be prepared for alot worse when you take the glass out, once the glass is out and there is just pitting and no actual holes through the metal then I would use the por-15 putty and then put a coat of por-15 over top.



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