4" tuff country lift

[BurnoutNova]

i was reading on suspensionconnection.com, and want to go with a 4" or maybe 6" lift.

i would go rear blocks, just because i dont want to spend extra for the rear springs.

i have a 69 3/4 ton with a T-221 t-case and closed knuckle front axle, and i hear the front driveshaft needs to be lengthened with either 4" or 6" and the raised steering arm wont work for the closed knuckle 44 for some reason.


AND i have factory blocks in the rear already, so i'll have to have 1" bigger block than comes with either kit, and i cant stck them, can i?


what else will i run into? i have tpo know as much as i can before i buy a kit because im on a tight budget, and dont want to have to buy the wrong parts over and over.

[JIMs70GMC]

Are you going to buy it from JC whitney? I have the discount code. You could add a "long" add-a-leaf (not as stiff as a short one) to make up for the factory block. Or find someone cutting up a 71 or 72 4wd frame and snag the front spring hangers for the rear springs, they hang down further. As for the steering you can get a 2" drop pitman arm, i have one on my GMC. Other option is a 4" drop drag link, but cost more. You really don't want to stack the blocks.

[BurnoutNova]

yeah if i get one online, it will probly be from jc whitney. they seem to be the best deal.

what does the t-case drop consist of, and whats it really do?

[Mudder]

My transfer case bolts had one inch sparcers aready on them. ( top of frame). I just dropped the cross member under the frame and used the spacers between the frame and cross member. Be care to not crash your distributor!!!!! If you let it down too far it will hit the firewall.

[JIMs70GMC]

the spacer(drop brackets) helps with rear driveshaft angles, not going to work for you because of the carrier bearing. Zach you either need to find a one-piece rear driveshaft or have one made. Don't order it with out me giving you the discount code. (15% off orders over $200)

[JIMs70GMC]

Discount code AJGN686 enter at checkout. Good until 8-31-04. 15% off orders over $200.

[Yukon Jack]

I initially did a 4" lift on my 69 3/4 ton and I did have to have my front driveshaft lengthened then found out I was going to have to have a CV joint so had to pull the driveshaft again to have one added. I'm sure you will need one too so plan for that from the get go so you don't run into the problem I had.

Yes the raised steering arm won't work with the factory 69 Dana 44. I went with the adjustable drag link by Skyjacker. Works great.

I did not have to modify my rear driveshaft.

You will need to modify your front brake lines. I dropped mine by adding more hard line.

Your emergency brake cable should be fine.

Of course you must do shocks.

I went with the shackle flip from www.offroaddesign.com and had to modify my exhaust a little because it hit the rear shackle.

You will get different opinions on whether you can stack the lift block on the factory block. It would be my preference to not stack them if possible.

[BurnoutNova]

what company did you go thru?

i am leaning towards tuff country EZ ride.

what is your current set up yukon jack?

[Yukon Jack]

I bought all my parts for the lift from OffRoad Design. I am currently running the shackle flip and some extra leaves for the rear springs, bring the total rear lift to about 7 1/2" or so. The front lift uses 6" Tuff Country but I added the extra leaf that you can get that makes the 4" lift a heavy duty style rather than the ez ride style - adding that extra leaf changes the 6" spring to a 7" spring. I did that because I wanted a little extra spring strength/rate as I am running a 454 now. The rest of my lift comes from a body lift that I had to use to clear the 454. It is presently 4" aluminum pucks but I will reduce it down to 2" pucks when I'm ready for another project. So right now, 11" of lift. Sits pretty dang high - wondering how I will ever jump in it - course I won't have to worry about that until I get my truck back on the road.