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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 351
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Both windows go up and down very hard...how to fix???
On my new 71 K-10, both windows are VERY hard to crank up or down. What could be the problem? Is something worn out or does it just need a little WD40? Thanks!
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1972 K-10 Longbox,6" lift w/35's/350/SM465/NP205/3.73 1972 C-10 Longbox,350/350 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP FOR SALE: 1971 K-10 Longbox,350/SM465/NP205 |
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#2 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: East Central, MO
Posts: 11,336
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WD works wonders for lots of things.........
![]() or......some white grease on all the pivot points or the regulator and gear... |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 8,855
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Yeah, just remove your door panel and lube up the rollers, track and the scissor lift inside the door
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#4 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Pampa, Texas
Posts: 1,554
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I tryed that very same thing on mine and it made it a little better but not totally (i still have to use my other hand to help the window up) is there aything else you can do??
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#5 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: East Central, MO
Posts: 11,336
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Try spraying silicone on the window tracks (channels).
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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if cleaning and lubricating the mech doesn't work about the only option is to change out to new parts
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#7 |
67-72 Addict!
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The TAX State!
Posts: 7,857
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I thought you had to get ALL the old grease first then apply new grease.
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Northern KY
Posts: 1
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I had this same problem on my 72 GMC. I was going to replace the regulators, which seemed like the logical choice.
After I got the regulator out (which is not the easiest task in the world), I noticed that there was a lot of rust on the slides that all of the grease in the world was not going to help. After a lot of elbow grease and sandpaper and emory cloth, my regulators now move with ease. It took some time to complete, but it did not cost me anything. HTH. |
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#9 |
71 DELUX
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Northern CA / Sac
Posts: 1,056
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WD40 warning!
WD40 is great, but not what you want to use on the regulator. I put some on the regulators of my 1955 F-100 and then I could no longer keep the windows in the "UP" position. They were so lubed and free, they'd rattle down into the door with simple (albeit straight-axle) driving!
I'd say clean the channels very well, get into the door and re-grease the regulators. Just my two cents... |
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#10 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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WD40 is worthless, and induses rust. PB Blaster is a cheap and much better spray lube.
I removed mine, hosed them down with brake clean, then soaked them with PB Blaster. These things roll up and down like a new car...actually easier than my wife's 76,000 mile kroger cruiser...without the "too easy" thing as described above. If they roll down too easily, then you basicly need a new regulater, the spring is probably broken. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Pampa, Texas
Posts: 1,554
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Is there any easier way to get all that stuff out of the door (my arms are too big to move around inside the door!) I can't even see the other side slide channel. are thier some special tools or something i am missing out on?????
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#12 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Pampa, Texas
Posts: 1,554
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ttt.........
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Alabama
Posts: 705
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Check out this older post, Bow-tie-bandit had a step by step that should help.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=82235 Last edited by A few 72's; 05-19-2004 at 01:35 PM. |
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NB
Posts: 3,367
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Make sure nut tn is broke!
Clean em first with something Castrol degreaser is a good product! Then oil em up add some grease here and there and BAMM!
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 2,746
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Also make sure the three nylon rollers are in good shape if not replace them while you have the regulator out. I know most of the ones in my truck and the burb were worn out or gone.
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: cornville, maine
Posts: 659
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On mine, there was a flat spot on the nylon roller. I ended up replacing the whole assembly.
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jku Cornville, Maine 68 C10 burb 42 Willys MB 46 Dodge WF-32 1.5 ton 53 & 56 Olds' 60 Cadillac 22 Dodge Brothers |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Pampa, Tx
Posts: 13
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Three words: White Lithium Grease. Work at a body shop and that stuff is perfect for that kinda stuff. If that doesn't help try loosening the regulator and adjusting, if that doesn't work, the regulator probably has a little of the rusty stuff in thereand needs replaced.
Hope that helps |
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