Fixing your own radiator? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Baralheia · 05-19-2004, 05:40 PM

I want to repair the radiator in my truck (it's a Copper/Brass 2-row for a 1985 truck W/5.0L W/AC W/AT) but I don't really know where to start. The two main places where it's leaking are at the tube-to-header joints (with some solder bloom inside the tank on the tubes) and at the tank-to-header joints. What kind of preparation do I need to do to the inside and outside of the radiator to clean it and ready it for the propane torch and solder?
Also, what kind of solder should I use - 60/40, 95/5, etc?

I eventually plan on purchasing a new radiator for this truck, but I don't have the funds to buy a new one right now - so I hope to try and repair it myself.

Anyone have any tips or pointers about how to clean and re-solder this radiator together?

Also, what are these radiators painted with, just a flat black primer?

Detailed repair proceedures would be greatly appreciated, either here or via a link.

Thanks in advance, guys.

87 STEPPER · 05-19-2004, 07:25 PM

The best tip i can make is to take it to a rad shop and have them repair it for you they don't charge that much for repair's.

Or if your dead set on repairing it your self then id'e use some kind of two part epoxy like JB weld.

Aloooooooong time ago i tried to do a solder repair on a leaky rad and when i hit it with the torch i melted all the solder around the end tank and i had a big mess on my hand's.

I then took it to the rad shop and they repaired it for me for like 20 bux.

As for the paint iv'e all way's used plain flat black.

Oh yeah welcome to the board

*1972C10* · 05-20-2004, 01:06 AM

use 60/40 and for flux get C flux and dillute it with water put flux on the area with a brush heat a litlte then brush some more on C flux cleans really well then solder it up with 60/40 if you can get 50 50 get that but its harder to find thatn 60/40
Do not try to use 95/5 requires way too much heat to melt it you would unsolder everything else in the process.

mhicks · 05-20-2004, 10:00 AM

Take it to the radiator shop. It shouldn't cost much. I tried it once and it was a disaster. I bought a new one for my 73 and it was like $100.00.

DBLSPRT68 · 05-20-2004, 10:42 AM

Hey, I've got a leftover radiator from my swap, I'd sell you. It was a 83, 305,at, w a/c. Ran cool when in truck. Now it's out and I don't need it. Check my sig. at bottom for details. Had 2 trucks, now making 1 good one. My 3/4T had a big 4 core, so keeping that one. Let me know. David

05-19-2004, 05:40 PM	#1
Baralheia Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 13	Fixing your own radiator? I want to repair the radiator in my truck (it's a Copper/Brass 2-row for a 1985 truck W/5.0L W/AC W/AT) but I don't really know where to start. The two main places where it's leaking are at the tube-to-header joints (with some solder bloom inside the tank on the tubes) and at the tank-to-header joints. What kind of preparation do I need to do to the inside and outside of the radiator to clean it and ready it for the propane torch and solder? Also, what kind of solder should I use - 60/40, 95/5, etc? I eventually plan on purchasing a new radiator for this truck, but I don't have the funds to buy a new one right now - so I hope to try and repair it myself. Anyone have any tips or pointers about how to clean and re-solder this radiator together? Also, what are these radiators painted with, just a flat black primer? Detailed repair proceedures would be greatly appreciated, either here or via a link. Thanks in advance, guys.

05-19-2004, 07:25 PM	#2
87 STEPPER STILL PLAYS WITH TRUX Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Melbourne, Fla. Posts: 2,764	The best tip i can make is to take it to a rad shop and have them repair it for you they don't charge that much for repair's. Or if your dead set on repairing it your self then id'e use some kind of two part epoxy like JB weld. Aloooooooong time ago i tried to do a solder repair on a leaky rad and when i hit it with the torch i melted all the solder around the end tank and i had a big mess on my hand's. I then took it to the rad shop and they repaired it for me for like 20 bux. As for the paint iv'e all way's used plain flat black. Oh yeah welcome to the board __________________ ~~Bruce~~ MY 87 STEPPER MY 99 2D/WD TAHOE

05-20-2004, 10:42 AM	#5
DBLSPRT68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Ft. Mill, SC USA Posts: 931	Hey, I've got a leftover radiator from my swap, I'd sell you. It was a 83, 305,at, w a/c. Ran cool when in truck. Now it's out and I don't need it. Check my sig. at bottom for details. Had 2 trucks, now making 1 good one. My 3/4T had a big 4 core, so keeping that one. Let me know. David __________________ PROJECT TRUCK: 1985 SWB C10 Silverado Black/Charcoal, 1990 V2500 Suburban, 2018 Suburban, 2005 GMC 2500HD CCSB, 2014 Toyota Camry SE, HAD.....1968 Camaro RS/SS Family owned since new; 350 3 speed SOLD

05-20-2004, 01:06 AM	#3
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	use 60/40 and for flux get C flux and dillute it with water put flux on the area with a brush heat a litlte then brush some more on C flux cleans really well then solder it up with 60/40 if you can get 50 50 get that but its harder to find thatn 60/40 Do not try to use 95/5 requires way too much heat to melt it you would unsolder everything else in the process.

05-20-2004, 10:00 AM	#4
mhicks Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Weatherford,Tx Posts: 747	Take it to the radiator shop. It shouldn't cost much. I tried it once and it was a disaster. I bought a new one for my 73 and it was like $100.00.



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