how to get off control arm bolt - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

aggiedave98 · 05-23-2004, 09:28 PM

Any help on how to get the lower control arm bolt off?? I've wd-40'd it and have a 1/2" breaker bar, but that's not enough. I can't get an impact wrench on it b/c of the exhaust is in the way.

LONGHAIR · 05-24-2004, 11:17 AM

Do you have a way to heat it? Even a propane torch may be enough.

grayw0lf · 05-24-2004, 11:37 AM

Longer breaker bar. Heat it & then put a 2-3ft. piece of pipe over your breaker bar. The longer the pipe, the more leverage you have.

1971 Cheyenne · 05-24-2004, 10:25 PM

I used a big pipe wrench and a 4 foot breaker bar with me jumping on the end of it.

Took some work, but i'd have to say getting the new ones on was even more of a chore. LOTS to look forward too

*1972C10* · 05-25-2004, 03:00 AM

Get some penetrating blaster and it will stomp a muddhole where wd40 wont phase it Heat it up with a torch and hit it with some wax that often does the trick on unbearable stuck bolts.

what i always did is put a backer wrench on it and a breaker bar and long pipe if just the breaker wouldnt do the trick, Your not going to break that bolt. So give it hell

cdowns · 05-25-2004, 10:08 AM

just get in there with a small cutoff wheel cut the sucker off and it's good to go . you're not planning on reusing the u-bolts that hold the control arm in place are you??

1971 Cheyenne · 05-25-2004, 12:04 PM

If he's thinking of the same bolt I am, you really don't want to use a cut-off wheel. Are you thinking of the 4 u-bolts that hold the lower control arom on or the 1 3/8 or 1 5/8 inch nuts that hold in the lower and upper control arm shaft?

cdowns · 05-25-2004, 12:18 PM

i was thinking of the u-bolts that mount the control arm to the frame,and i've seen more than 1post from members that have had used ones fail that's why i suggest getting new ones

1971 Cheyenne · 05-25-2004, 09:55 PM

oh, yes you are right then, There is absolutely no reason to reuse those bolts over again, they are cheap!

I was thinking of these nuts (the ones painted silver/gray)

*Sublvr72* · 05-26-2004, 05:28 AM

use PB blaster spray. I soaked mine for a few hours and the loosened up with breaker bar. Have you already seperated the lower control arm from the spindle?

aggiedave98 · 05-26-2004, 11:26 PM

thanks for all the help!!

I was talking about the 1 1/8" bolts, not the u-bolts. I used a 4' pipe over the breaker bar and was able to break them loose.

slam33 · 05-27-2004, 10:51 AM

Those are the A-arm shaft caps. There on with about 250 ftlbs. The shaft kits from Moog are about $50. You can get rebiulds for about a $100. As for the caps, set the truck on a jack stand and use a 4 ft breaker bar. When there loose you can pull the a-arms off and replace the shafts and caps.

05-23-2004, 09:28 PM	#1
aggiedave98 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Sugar Land, TX Posts: 1,007	how to get off control arm bolt Any help on how to get the lower control arm bolt off?? I've wd-40'd it and have a 1/2" breaker bar, but that's not enough. I can't get an impact wrench on it b/c of the exhaust is in the way.

05-24-2004, 11:37 AM	#3
grayw0lf Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Clanton, AL Posts: 1,253	Longer breaker bar. Heat it & then put a 2-3ft. piece of pipe over your breaker bar. The longer the pipe, the more leverage you have. __________________ 85' CUCV M1009!!! The newest addition! 6.2diesel, Th400, NP208, & only 36k miles! 70' C-10 LWB Fleetside - Looking good these days! 05' Dodge Neon 88' Winner Escape Sport 1750 - 4.3v6 94' Seadoo SP 84' Honda TRX200, bare nekkid. Just a frame & tires. Always looking for another project or any good deal!

05-24-2004, 10:25 PM	#4
1971 Cheyenne Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Bellevue, WA Posts: 1,480	I used a big pipe wrench and a 4 foot breaker bar with me jumping on the end of it. Took some work, but i'd have to say getting the new ones on was even more of a chore. LOTS to look forward too __________________ Brian Pal 1971 Cheyenne 10 454/th400-Undergoing a full frame off resto. 1972 Chevy short/step 2wd, 350/th350 1983 M1009 CUCV Military K5 Blazer 1981 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 dually flatbed

05-25-2004, 10:08 AM	#6
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	just get in there with a small cutoff wheel cut the sucker off and it's good to go . you're not planning on reusing the u-bolts that hold the control arm in place are you?? __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

05-25-2004, 12:04 PM	#7
1971 Cheyenne Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Bellevue, WA Posts: 1,480	If he's thinking of the same bolt I am, you really don't want to use a cut-off wheel. Are you thinking of the 4 u-bolts that hold the lower control arom on or the 1 3/8 or 1 5/8 inch nuts that hold in the lower and upper control arm shaft? __________________ Brian Pal 1971 Cheyenne 10 454/th400-Undergoing a full frame off resto. 1972 Chevy short/step 2wd, 350/th350 1983 M1009 CUCV Military K5 Blazer 1981 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 dually flatbed

05-24-2004, 11:17 AM	#2
LONGHAIR just can't cover up my redneck Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 11,414	Do you have a way to heat it? Even a propane torch may be enough.

05-25-2004, 03:00 AM	#5
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	Get some penetrating blaster and it will stomp a muddhole where wd40 wont phase it Heat it up with a torch and hit it with some wax that often does the trick on unbearable stuck bolts. what i always did is put a backer wrench on it and a breaker bar and long pipe if just the breaker wouldnt do the trick, Your not going to break that bolt. So give it hell

05-25-2004, 12:18 PM	#8
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	i was thinking of the u-bolts that mount the control arm to the frame,and i've seen more than 1post from members that have had used ones fail that's why i suggest getting new ones __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

05-25-2004, 09:55 PM	#9
1971 Cheyenne Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Bellevue, WA Posts: 1,480	oh, yes you are right then, There is absolutely no reason to reuse those bolts over again, they are cheap! I was thinking of these nuts (the ones painted silver/gray) __________________ Brian Pal 1971 Cheyenne 10 454/th400-Undergoing a full frame off resto. 1972 Chevy short/step 2wd, 350/th350 1983 M1009 CUCV Military K5 Blazer 1981 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 dually flatbed

05-26-2004, 05:28 AM	#10
Sublvr72 Account Suspended Join Date: May 2004 Location: Simi Valley, CA Posts: 1,387	use PB blaster spray. I soaked mine for a few hours and the loosened up with breaker bar. Have you already seperated the lower control arm from the spindle?

05-26-2004, 11:26 PM	#11
aggiedave98 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Sugar Land, TX Posts: 1,007	thanks for all the help!! I was talking about the 1 1/8" bolts, not the u-bolts. I used a 4' pipe over the breaker bar and was able to break them loose.

05-27-2004, 10:51 AM	#12
slam33 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Long Beach, Ca Posts: 1,432	Those are the A-arm shaft caps. There on with about 250 ftlbs. The shaft kits from Moog are about $50. You can get rebiulds for about a $100. As for the caps, set the truck on a jack stand and use a 4 ft breaker bar. When there loose you can pull the a-arms off and replace the shafts and caps. __________________ 71 LWB 350/350still working on it but it's going tp be sweet. www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html " TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 </A>



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