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Old 05-24-2004, 10:54 PM   #1
69c10Lwb
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Location: san antonio,texas
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Shortening A Frame

i know this has been asked before but im going to ask again, a buddy and i were kicking around ideas about my 69 lwb and he suggested we cut the frame down, i told him about doing it under the cab and he swears he did it by moving the cross member up in the frame and cutting off the excess from the rear frame . i went and looked at my lwb frame and im not sure it can be done that way. im beginning to think we had a few too many beers and must be missing something. let me know before i end up needing a new frame...
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1973 pro-street nova back halved 632 cid 9inchford, disc brakes,2stges of spray,t-400 w/brake . almost done.
1952 chevy pick up soon to have a 468 bbc (hopefully momma will be happy with it and let me play with my toys more)
nds.1983 ford bronco 400m auto matic 4wheel drive (war wagon, seen many battles and lost most )
another 1969 lwb project.
suspension ??
motor ?? driveline ?? when you get it for free you dont turn it down... right???? 1992 suburban 4x4 no mods yet
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Old 05-24-2004, 11:01 PM   #2
1972ChevyGuy
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If you only cut from the rear the back tires will be like 2" away from the rear bumper. There was a truck posted here on ebay like that and IMO it looked pretty gay (no offence to anyone who might have done that )
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Old 05-24-2004, 11:11 PM   #3
69c10Lwb
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maybe i need to explain, he saying to cut the rivets and move the crossmember for the trailing arms up further in the frame and cutting off the excess from the rear frame and using a standard swb box.
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1973 pro-street nova back halved 632 cid 9inchford, disc brakes,2stges of spray,t-400 w/brake . almost done.
1952 chevy pick up soon to have a 468 bbc (hopefully momma will be happy with it and let me play with my toys more)
nds.1983 ford bronco 400m auto matic 4wheel drive (war wagon, seen many battles and lost most )
another 1969 lwb project.
suspension ??
motor ?? driveline ?? when you get it for free you dont turn it down... right???? 1992 suburban 4x4 no mods yet
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Old 05-24-2004, 11:49 PM   #4
glock35ipsc
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Take a close look at this LWB frame, and draw your own conclusions about your friends "theory." Take a close look at where the top of the coil spring is to the frame, then imagine where it would set if it were to move 12" forward. Also, follow the shock up and you will barely see the top of that crossmember. Imagine where that would set in the frame as well. Now, follow the contour of the top of the frame from the axle centerline and imagine where that would be if moved forward 12". Also, NONE of the box bolts would match up to anything, and I am sure new holes would have to be drilled, and maybe some new towers too. The only "proper" way is to remove 12" from the area directly in front of the rear body mounts, then move the rear body mounts back 12", and remove 8" straight off the rear of the frame.

Study these pictures:



The frame narrows about 4" from the upper shock crossmember (about 38 1/2" wide) to the rear of the cab (34"):

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1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!!
1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck

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Last edited by glock35ipsc; 05-24-2004 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 05-25-2004, 02:49 AM   #5
1972C10
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I cut mine foot under the cab and 8 inches off the back Came out awesome Here are pics of where i cut mine






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