Starter Motor Questions

[Lippyp]

After my starting problems on Sundy I charged my battery right up and went over to see an exhaust shop about getting some new tailpipes made up and again, she refused to start afetr I had just shut her off, so it seems that my problem is starter motor related rather than battery, as after an hour cooling down she fired up fine. It's always suffered a bit from heat soak but it seems she's really bitten the dust now. So I now need to replace the starter.

1: I have been told that there are two possible bolt patterns on the starter, it's a 69 350 sbc, does anyone have a picture of the two different types to help me identify which one I have. Is this information correct by the way and are the flexplates on a TH350 a standard number of teeth.

2: Is there anything else I should be aware of when replacing the starter motor, any tips or hints that might help me? Should it just be a straight pull and replace?

3: I also intend to fit a heat shield to try and preserve the new starter, is anyone using the Mr Gasket one and is it OK?

Anything else I need to know?

As always thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[JimKshortstep4x4]

The starter should be a straight pull and replace. Sometimes shimming is needed but personnally I have never had to do it.

If you look at the starter it will have two mounting bolts. One pattern is where the two bolts are straight across from each other 90 degrees to the starter. The other pattern is where the two mounting bolts are diagonal to the starter. Just match up the bolt patterns. Most if not all trucks had the diagonal starter mounting unless they were sticks.

I have not used the heat shield and have not had a problem. We use 800 plus cranking amp batteries with #1 size battery cables or #0 size. Original cables are #4 I believe which is a little on the small size.

A remote mounted solonoid is another option.

Jim

[passthebuck]

Lippyp - you may only need to change the solenoid to solve the heatsoak problem. The two starter noses are for the two different flywheel/flexplate sizes (14" & 12"). Dont worry about getting the wrong starter, just as long as you get a chevy starter you can just swap the nose with your old one. Its super easy. You could rebuild the starter yourself too. all you need is the kit. Questions? post here!

[Lippyp]

Thanks guys, I've ordered a new starter (mine appears to have the straight across pattern, but then the engine is a '69 engine and not original to the truck, from the numbers I've found so far and the head castings it appears that it may be a 300HP car lump originally. I'll keep the original one as a spare to rebuild if I need to. I have a heat shield blanket that's supposed to reflect something like 90% of the heat that'll get wrapped around the new one to prolong its life.

I struggle to get a battery that size in the right size casing, mines a 680 cranking amps and is the biggest capacity in that size casing I could find over here, I may ahve to go to a specialist and buy an import.

[Project1970]

680 is the best you can find? I've got an Interstate in my truck that does 1000 CA / 800 CCA, I think it's the MTP65. It's the exact same case/specs as the MTP24, except that it has sideposts as well.

Cranks beautifully with a fresh Autolite remanned starter...my new (four years ago) ACDelco stripped itself internally.

[MACKL]

While working on the starter, If you have not recently, I would not pass the opportunity to replace that battery cables. I have seen many frustrated people replace multiple starters to find the cables were the cause.

The correct action would be to test the entire system. But you have to have access to the right tools. Battery load tester, Voltage gauge and Amp meter (with an inductive pickup. There are a series of test to check every componet in the system.

Battery load test should be 1/2 of the CCA for 15 seconds with a minimum reading of 9.6 when above 70 degrees. expamle 660 cca, load at 330 amps for 15 sec.

The starter amp draw while cranking the vehicle (With the ign disabled so it will not start) should be less than 250 amps.

To check the cables, attach the pos end of a DVOM (Digital volt omh meter) to the bat side of the pos cable, the neg end of the DVOM to the tab comming out of the sol going into the starter motor. (This will check the entire circuit.) With the ign disabled, crank the engine and read the meter. Reading should be less than .05 volts. If it is higher than .05, move the neg end of the meter to where the pos cable attaches to the starter sol and retest. If the number comes down below .05, the sol is bad, if it stays above .05 the cable is bad.
For the neg cable, put the pos end of the DVOM on the neg bat term and the neg end of the DVOM on where the cable bolts to the engine. Disable the ign and crank. This reading should be less than .02. If higer, replace the cable.
Make sure you run this test with the engine warm, but not to the point that your engine will not turn over.

Every one of these test are testing the system with a load applied, it is the most accurate test to use.

Hope this is a help to you.