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Old 05-31-2004, 11:31 AM   #1
buckola
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Timing Cover Install

I know... it would be easier if I had of pulled the engine but...
anyway when re installing the timing cover what is the best method of sealing it to the oil pan. I have loosened the pan nuts enuff to remove the cover and have heard several ways to reseal it. should I get one of the gaskets a silicone it up or just use silicone or ????
I am making good progress on the vortec install and to avoid any major setbacks i thot it best to check with you guys ( and girls) first.


thanks
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Old 05-31-2004, 11:46 AM   #2
crazy longhorn
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The way that works best for me, is to toss the rubber seal, & load the groove with RTV crazyL
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Old 05-31-2004, 12:13 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy longhorn
The way that works best for me, is to toss the rubber seal, & load the groove with RTV crazyL

Yup, best way to do it is load it with a silicon gasket maker to make a better seal.
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Old 05-31-2004, 06:29 PM   #4
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Yeah those rubber seals suck I had one leak there and it was due to using that rubber seal after that i put nothing but silocone in it whether the engine is on the stand or in the truck and it seals. neat thing about it you can pop the cover off an put it back on without loosening the oil pan.
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Old 05-31-2004, 06:30 PM   #5
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O and be sure that the silocone is smooth and covered on the outside you can stop a leak before it starts putting silocone over a slight hole while its still wet not so when oil has leaked out of it.

and b-12 helps prep the area for silocone.
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Old 05-31-2004, 06:35 PM   #6
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Any special silicone?

Thanks for all the help guys.
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1970 GMC Custom
Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Crane 272 Energizer, Hedman Full Length HTC Headers

2006 Dodge Charger SRT8. 1/4 mile 13.3

1973 Z1 900 Kawasaki ( all original)
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Old 05-31-2004, 06:37 PM   #7
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I use the black RTV, works great.
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Old 05-31-2004, 06:38 PM   #8
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I like the orange or the grey
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Old 05-31-2004, 06:56 PM   #9
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Also there is the lips or ledge that is on the cover. that causes you to have to get more clearance going back in and may times it what causes a tear and a leak. Grind off and 45 both the outer edges put some silicone on each edge that you ground line it up and take a rubber mallet you want it to go in as even as possible then start your bolts. have done several that way no problems. Told to me by a very experienced old mechanic
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Old 05-31-2004, 07:05 PM   #10
crazy longhorn
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Yes! grind part of the back lip off, it helps with assembly & does not cause any trouble i use red RTV myself, & dont worry about repainting. crazyL
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Old 05-31-2004, 07:06 PM   #11
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Make sure I got this right...
Grind the hole lip off ( inner and outer) and then chamfer a 45 degree angle on the again both the outer and inner edges?

If i got this right it sounds like a good idea
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1970 GMC Custom
Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Crane 272 Energizer, Hedman Full Length HTC Headers

2006 Dodge Charger SRT8. 1/4 mile 13.3

1973 Z1 900 Kawasaki ( all original)
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Old 05-31-2004, 07:31 PM   #12
crazy longhorn
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Inner lip.....you dont need to grind it all off, but just enough to let it slip into place easily. Leave the front lip alone, & load the groove with rtv (after you know it fits) the RTV will make as good as ....or a better seal than that stock rubber POS made crazyL
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Old 05-31-2004, 07:35 PM   #13
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gothcha


thanks
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Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Crane 272 Energizer, Hedman Full Length HTC Headers

2006 Dodge Charger SRT8. 1/4 mile 13.3

1973 Z1 900 Kawasaki ( all original)
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