replacing front yoke seal... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**jamie72** · 06-13-2004, 08:05 PM

i got a 350/205 and the front seal is leaking,how do i replace it???
thnaks jamie

**JIMs70GMC** · 06-13-2004, 08:14 PM

Are you talking the input to the transfer case or the front output of the transfer case?

**jamie72** · 06-13-2004, 08:49 PM

the output to the front drive shaft.

LONGHAIR · 06-14-2004, 01:39 AM

It's a fairly straight forward job. You just remove the drive shaft, then the yoke. (It's just one nut) The yoke should slide right off, maybe a slight tap will be needed......nothing crazy though. The seal is a simple pry out and drive back in with a hammer. Rub some oil on the seal before reversing the process to reinstall everything.

**JIMs70GMC** · 06-14-2004, 08:50 AM

Also the seal retainer can be removed(4 bolts) and you can change the seal then re-install. Mine's leaking on the 71. NAPA has the seal for under $15, autozone has it for a lot less. To me the hardest part is removing the front driveshaft, those 4 bolts are a pain to get to!

**jamie72** · 06-14-2004, 06:45 PM

thanks guys,looks like i got a bigger probem now,i got a 350/205,looks like tranny fluid is leaking out of the xcase!!!
just when i was busting a** to get this truck on the raod for the july board meet..so what seal is causeing this??

jamie

**JIMs70GMC** · 06-14-2004, 08:38 PM

There's a seal in the adapter between the tranny and transfer case. Do a search or start a new thread there's some info on this here somewhere.

**Phuloi68** · 06-15-2004, 08:03 AM

I just changed the seals in my adapter. There are 2 seals in the adapter, one on each side.
Yours will be either National or Chicago Rawhide seals. If you have a bearing supply house near you they can supply what you need way cheaper then NAPA or wherever. Same goes for any bearings. Same manufactures make most seals and bearings and they end up in different boxes for different outlets at substantial markups.
Get old seals out by tapping gently with hammer and punch or something blunt. You can use a screw driver but be gentle because you will want to use the old seal to help install the new seal. Clean the adapter, lightly oil outside of seal and start to install by G E N T L Y tapping with small hammer (make sure seal is correct way) to get it started. Then place old seal over new and use it to drive new one into bore. This way, it helps to drive it in straight and more importantly you don't damage new one causing leak. As anyone who has done a lot of this can tell you, that will make you mad! It is easy to put a little dent or distortion in seal.
For anyone doing seal and bearing work, use a place like Berry Bearing, Motion Industries, Bearing Headquarters, etc. They can cross reference any of this if you give them a number, or measure or take in a sample if you are close, and it will save quite a bit of money, especially on more expensive items. A good bearing supply person can help in other ways. Tech advice, what may have caused bng failure (if it's not obvious) how to install, etc.

P.S. I can give you the Chicago Rawhide P/N of the seals I just installed but you might try to get yours out. I have a 350/205 adapter and they should be the same but this way you will have the proper seal in your hand and should be able to identify it. C/H will have some numbers, National doesn't but you can measure, etc.

**jamie72** · 06-18-2004, 03:40 PM

phuloi68,
could you give me the numbers,of the ones you got, i went to a motion locally and got some seals,just want to make sure i got the right ones..
thanks for the help
jamie

**Phuloi68** · 06-19-2004, 05:43 PM

the seals I installed were CR (chicago rawhide) p/n 19760.
let me know if thats what they gave you. We got the number off of one of the old seals and thats what they supplied.

**jamie72** · 06-20-2004, 05:31 PM

yea those are the numbers,and i got both seals for like 8.50,when napa wanted 10.50 for one.
thanks jamie

**Phuloi68** · 06-20-2004, 08:01 PM

Glad it helped. Anytime a person needs stuff for bearings, seals, etc they should use a bearing house if it's close. It helps save money. Those places can find a lot of parts in the world of power transmission. And that's what cars and trucks are. Power being transfered from the engine to the wheels.

06-13-2004, 08:05 PM	#1
jamie72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: madison indiana Posts: 3,839	replacing front yoke seal... i got a 350/205 and the front seal is leaking,how do i replace it??? thnaks jamie __________________ jamie72 72 BB cheyenne -- Restoration getting started.. member #807 http://www.myspace.com/whitetailobsession www.antlertalk.com

06-13-2004, 08:14 PM	#2
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Are you talking the input to the transfer case or the front output of the transfer case? __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

06-13-2004, 08:49 PM	#3
jamie72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: madison indiana Posts: 3,839	the output to the front drive shaft. __________________ jamie72 72 BB cheyenne -- Restoration getting started.. member #807 http://www.myspace.com/whitetailobsession www.antlertalk.com

06-14-2004, 08:50 AM	#5
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Also the seal retainer can be removed(4 bolts) and you can change the seal then re-install. Mine's leaking on the 71. NAPA has the seal for under $15, autozone has it for a lot less. To me the hardest part is removing the front driveshaft, those 4 bolts are a pain to get to! __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

06-14-2004, 06:45 PM	#6
jamie72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: madison indiana Posts: 3,839	thanks guys,looks like i got a bigger probem now,i got a 350/205,looks like tranny fluid is leaking out of the xcase!!! just when i was busting a** to get this truck on the raod for the july board meet..so what seal is causeing this?? jamie __________________ jamie72 72 BB cheyenne -- Restoration getting started.. member #807 http://www.myspace.com/whitetailobsession www.antlertalk.com

06-14-2004, 01:39 AM	#4
LONGHAIR just can't cover up my redneck Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 11,414	It's a fairly straight forward job. You just remove the drive shaft, then the yoke. (It's just one nut) The yoke should slide right off, maybe a slight tap will be needed......nothing crazy though. The seal is a simple pry out and drive back in with a hammer. Rub some oil on the seal before reversing the process to reinstall everything.

06-14-2004, 08:38 PM	#7
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	There's a seal in the adapter between the tranny and transfer case. Do a search or start a new thread there's some info on this here somewhere. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

06-15-2004, 08:03 AM	#8
Phuloi68 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Valparaiso, In Posts: 1,114	I just changed the seals in my adapter. There are 2 seals in the adapter, one on each side. Yours will be either National or Chicago Rawhide seals. If you have a bearing supply house near you they can supply what you need way cheaper then NAPA or wherever. Same goes for any bearings. Same manufactures make most seals and bearings and they end up in different boxes for different outlets at substantial markups. Get old seals out by tapping gently with hammer and punch or something blunt. You can use a screw driver but be gentle because you will want to use the old seal to help install the new seal. Clean the adapter, lightly oil outside of seal and start to install by G E N T L Y tapping with small hammer (make sure seal is correct way) to get it started. Then place old seal over new and use it to drive new one into bore. This way, it helps to drive it in straight and more importantly you don't damage new one causing leak. As anyone who has done a lot of this can tell you, that will make you mad! It is easy to put a little dent or distortion in seal. For anyone doing seal and bearing work, use a place like Berry Bearing, Motion Industries, Bearing Headquarters, etc. They can cross reference any of this if you give them a number, or measure or take in a sample if you are close, and it will save quite a bit of money, especially on more expensive items. A good bearing supply person can help in other ways. Tech advice, what may have caused bng failure (if it's not obvious) how to install, etc. P.S. I can give you the Chicago Rawhide P/N of the seals I just installed but you might try to get yours out. I have a 350/205 adapter and they should be the same but this way you will have the proper seal in your hand and should be able to identify it. C/H will have some numbers, National doesn't but you can measure, etc. __________________ Phuloi68 Indy survivor Norwood survivor Big Sandy survivor for those who fight for it... F R E E D O M has a price the protected will never know. Last edited by Phuloi68; 06-15-2004 at 08:12 AM.

06-18-2004, 03:40 PM	#9
jamie72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: madison indiana Posts: 3,839	phuloi68, could you give me the numbers,of the ones you got, i went to a motion locally and got some seals,just want to make sure i got the right ones.. thanks for the help jamie __________________ jamie72 72 BB cheyenne -- Restoration getting started.. member #807 http://www.myspace.com/whitetailobsession www.antlertalk.com

06-19-2004, 05:43 PM	#10
Phuloi68 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Valparaiso, In Posts: 1,114	the seals I installed were CR (chicago rawhide) p/n 19760. let me know if thats what they gave you. We got the number off of one of the old seals and thats what they supplied. __________________ Phuloi68 Indy survivor Norwood survivor Big Sandy survivor for those who fight for it... F R E E D O M has a price the protected will never know.

06-20-2004, 05:31 PM	#11
jamie72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: madison indiana Posts: 3,839	yea those are the numbers,and i got both seals for like 8.50,when napa wanted 10.50 for one. thanks jamie __________________ jamie72 72 BB cheyenne -- Restoration getting started.. member #807 http://www.myspace.com/whitetailobsession www.antlertalk.com

06-20-2004, 08:01 PM	#12
Phuloi68 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Valparaiso, In Posts: 1,114	Glad it helped. Anytime a person needs stuff for bearings, seals, etc they should use a bearing house if it's close. It helps save money. Those places can find a lot of parts in the world of power transmission. And that's what cars and trucks are. Power being transfered from the engine to the wheels. __________________ Phuloi68 Indy survivor Norwood survivor Big Sandy survivor for those who fight for it... F R E E D O M has a price the protected will never know.



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