Broke off bleeding screw on rear drum...how to fix???? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

kickinasphalt · 06-25-2004, 01:21 AM

Was going to bleed the brakes on my 72 4x4 tonight (brakes have been really mushy and thought this would help). After I had it jacked up and had the tires off the back I noticed my driver side bleeder was gone (snapped off). Went over to the passenger side and proceded to snap that one off too. Now I need to figure out some way of getting whats left of it out so I could put new ones in. Any tips??? Thanks.

adamls · 06-25-2004, 01:28 AM

EzeOut, hope for the best. You might take the caliper off the truck and put it on the bench, with some heat

krue · 06-25-2004, 02:12 AM

I would just replace the wheel cylinders. No more than they cost and you will eliminate one possible cause of your mushy brakes.

Bowed · 06-25-2004, 02:15 AM

You said the rear so you might be better off just changing the brake cylinders, they are not expensive and then you are all new . .

gonebad2 · 06-25-2004, 03:03 AM

Good idea to replace them as a pair rather than just one. Usually they can be bought for around $20.00 each

mrein3 · 06-25-2004, 07:36 AM

I always put new wheel cylinders in when this happens. And this happens all the time with all the road salt they use in MN.

Tx Firefighter · 06-25-2004, 07:58 AM

Must be inflation in Nevada.

Around here, they go for about 12 bucks each.

chevroletrucks · 06-25-2004, 10:49 AM

Absolutely replace your wheel cylinders, as for the mushy pedal if you still have it after the wheel cylinders are installed there are a couple different ways to identify the problem. The first thing you have to do is make sure you have no air in the lines front or rear. Then if the pedal is still mushy you can take a pair of needle nose vice-grips and lightly crimp off your rear brake hose. Then check your pedal ,you've now eliminated the rear brakes. Still mushy? Go to the front hoses one at a time. If you have all brake hoses crimped off and still a mushy pedal you know it's your master cylinder.
Remember lightly crimp then off dont crush'em your not freeing a rusted bolt here. Hope that helps

kickinasphalt · 06-25-2004, 11:29 AM

I've never changed wheel cylinders before. What all is involved? While I'm at it I might do drums and pads to (if they look bad).

kickinasphalt · 06-25-2004, 11:33 AM

I went over to Napa's site quick and they offer a wheel cylinder for $10 but they also have a wheel cylinder kit for $7. Is this something I would need too?

junkyardjohn · 06-25-2004, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Must be inflation in Nevada.

Around here, they go for about 12 bucks each.

NAW -- I JUST BOUGHT A PAIR AT AUTOZONE HERE IN CARSON CITY NEVADA. $8.79 EACH SIDE.

JOHN

Dean · 06-25-2004, 12:48 PM

FYI...for future reference I have found that a 3/8" Impact gun on a light setting is excellant for loosening those bleeders. Just take it slow because they will twist off very easy.

I agree with replacing them at this point. They shouldn't be that expensive.

You will not need the wheel cylinder kit. I'm assuming that is to rebuild a cylinder.

Drums use brake shoes; discs use brake pads.

You might possibly need a hardware kit if your adjusters are locked up or need new springs, etc.

Take one side apart at a time so you can reference the other side if you forget how it went together.

Old Dave · 06-25-2004, 01:15 PM

Well said Dean. I always put "Never Seize" on the threads of the new bleeder valves, brake adjuster, and the wheel studs. It makes it a lot easier to get them loose down the road.

junkyardjohn · 06-25-2004, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Dave

Well said Dean. I always put "Never Seize" on the threads of the new bleeder valves, brake adjuster, and the wheel studs. It makes it a lot easier to get them loose down the road.

THAT NEVERSEIZE IS A GREAT IDEA. WELL THATS MY NEW THING THAT I LEARNED FOR THE DAY.

JOHN

Dean · 06-25-2004, 02:57 PM

I agree with the NeverSeize and supposedly you should use the copper based stuff not the aluminum based.

krue · 06-25-2004, 03:03 PM

You are much better off replacing the wheel cylinders instead of trying to rebuild them!

72LOWBOY · 06-25-2004, 03:14 PM

I would also replace wheel cylinders,and as for the mushy pedal go ahead and adjust your rear brakes while your there. Then go about bleeding. good luck

chevroletrucks · 06-25-2004, 05:45 PM

Dont waste your time rebuilding them for the extra 3.00 just replace them. We used to rebuild'em back in the day and I'll tell you for three bucks it's not worth the time. Also if you do replace the shoes definitely replace the hardware. Hardware kits are pretty in-expensive and it's not worth the hassle of having a spring snap on you a month after you do your brakes. When you have all this apart just make sure your adjusters are free and you lube the backing plates where the shoes make contact. If you've never done drum barakes before my best suggestion to you is to do one side at a time so you can peek at the other side to see where springs go. Also the short shoe always faces the front of the truck the long shoe goes in the rear. (I see that all the time at my shop from do it yourself customers) Best of luck

gonebad2 · 06-25-2004, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Must be inflation in Nevada.

Around here, they go for about 12 bucks each.

Guess I need to stop shopping at the GM counter?????? The ones I saw at autozone/kragens said the castings were made in India.......That was true, those ones were about $8.00. If GM Delco is unavailable, I try to stick with Wagner.....Just me being weird I guess....I wonder how much the underpaid workers in India know about Chevy Parts???

Rod · 06-25-2004, 09:42 PM

Hmm I never though about never-seizing the bleed screws also... just did my wifes car a couple weeks back cause I broke both here wheel cylinder bleed screws also.

Good thing I did actually cause then I got to see the wheel cylinders were weeping anyway and needed replacing. And I did the shoes at same time. Drums were OK and within tolerances. While your there you might as well take a look and replace all whats needed.

franko72 · 06-25-2004, 10:55 PM

Replace the wheel cylinders and dont over tighten the bleeder valve screws when bleeding the brakes

06-25-2004, 01:21 AM	#1
kickinasphalt Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: North Dakota Posts: 351	Broke off bleeding screw on rear drum...how to fix???? Was going to bleed the brakes on my 72 4x4 tonight (brakes have been really mushy and thought this would help). After I had it jacked up and had the tires off the back I noticed my driver side bleeder was gone (snapped off). Went over to the passenger side and proceded to snap that one off too. Now I need to figure out some way of getting whats left of it out so I could put new ones in. Any tips??? Thanks. __________________ 1972 K-10 Longbox,6" lift w/35's/350/SM465/NP205/3.73 1972 C-10 Longbox,350/350 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP FOR SALE: 1971 K-10 Longbox,350/SM465/NP205

06-25-2004, 01:28 AM	#2
adamls Gotta Startem Early Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Amarillo, TX, USA Posts: 364	EzeOut, hope for the best. You might take the caliper off the truck and put it on the bench, with some heat __________________ 67 SWB In Progress, one piece at a time, maybe 3 years I will be finished

06-25-2004, 02:12 AM	#3
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	I would just replace the wheel cylinders. No more than they cost and you will eliminate one possible cause of your mushy brakes. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

06-25-2004, 03:03 AM	#5
gonebad2 Merciless Butcher Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: CC Nevada Posts: 1,447	Good idea to replace them as a pair rather than just one. Usually they can be bought for around $20.00 each __________________ Your Bought And Sold....I Got Your Soul!

06-25-2004, 07:36 AM	#6
mrein3 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Center City, MN, USA Posts: 3,253	I always put new wheel cylinders in when this happens. And this happens all the time with all the road salt they use in MN. __________________ '70 cab, '71 chassis, 383, TH350, NP205. '71 Malibu convertible '72 Malibu hard top Center City, MN

06-25-2004, 02:15 AM	#4
Bowed Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: where it's hot Posts: 1,059	You said the rear so you might be better off just changing the brake cylinders, they are not expensive and then you are all new . .

06-25-2004, 07:58 AM	#7
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Must be inflation in Nevada. Around here, they go for about 12 bucks each. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

06-25-2004, 10:49 AM	#8
chevroletrucks Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Northwest,Indiana Posts: 128	Absolutely replace your wheel cylinders, as for the mushy pedal if you still have it after the wheel cylinders are installed there are a couple different ways to identify the problem. The first thing you have to do is make sure you have no air in the lines front or rear. Then if the pedal is still mushy you can take a pair of needle nose vice-grips and lightly crimp off your rear brake hose. Then check your pedal ,you've now eliminated the rear brakes. Still mushy? Go to the front hoses one at a time. If you have all brake hoses crimped off and still a mushy pedal you know it's your master cylinder. Remember lightly crimp then off dont crush'em your not freeing a rusted bolt here. Hope that helps __________________ 67' Chevy C10 Lwb small rear window 71' Gmc 1500 custom 4x4 72' Gmc Grande Sierra

06-25-2004, 11:29 AM	#9
kickinasphalt Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: North Dakota Posts: 351	I've never changed wheel cylinders before. What all is involved? While I'm at it I might do drums and pads to (if they look bad). __________________ 1972 K-10 Longbox,6" lift w/35's/350/SM465/NP205/3.73 1972 C-10 Longbox,350/350 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP FOR SALE: 1971 K-10 Longbox,350/SM465/NP205

06-25-2004, 11:33 AM	#10
kickinasphalt Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: North Dakota Posts: 351	I went over to Napa's site quick and they offer a wheel cylinder for $10 but they also have a wheel cylinder kit for $7. Is this something I would need too? __________________ 1972 K-10 Longbox,6" lift w/35's/350/SM465/NP205/3.73 1972 C-10 Longbox,350/350 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP FOR SALE: 1971 K-10 Longbox,350/SM465/NP205

06-25-2004, 12:48 PM	#12
Dean Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 1,492	FYI...for future reference I have found that a 3/8" Impact gun on a light setting is excellant for loosening those bleeders. Just take it slow because they will twist off very easy. I agree with replacing them at this point. They shouldn't be that expensive. You will not need the wheel cylinder kit. I'm assuming that is to rebuild a cylinder. Drums use brake shoes; discs use brake pads. You might possibly need a hardware kit if your adjusters are locked up or need new springs, etc. Take one side apart at a time so you can reference the other side if you forget how it went together.

06-25-2004, 01:15 PM	#13
Old Dave Is a bullfrog waterproof? Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: OLATHE, KANSAS Posts: 1,130	Well said Dean. I always put "Never Seize" on the threads of the new bleeder valves, brake adjuster, and the wheel studs. It makes it a lot easier to get them loose down the road. __________________ "It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt." Ben Franklin __________________ 1970 Chevy shortbed 2002 Harley Custom Chopper (Long sucker) 1998 K2500 5.7L 5-speed Longbed 1st two are My son's toys...they just live in my garage! 1997 GMC K1500 Suburban 1993 S-10 Blazer 4D (youngest son's daily driver) 2000 Dodge Ram 4WD Ext. Cab (5.9L) Wife is a late year 1951

06-25-2004, 02:57 PM	#15
Dean Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 1,492	I agree with the NeverSeize and supposedly you should use the copper based stuff not the aluminum based.

06-25-2004, 03:03 PM	#16
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	You are much better off replacing the wheel cylinders instead of trying to rebuild them! __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

06-25-2004, 03:14 PM	#17
72LOWBOY Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Coral Springs,FL Posts: 100	I would also replace wheel cylinders,and as for the mushy pedal go ahead and adjust your rear brakes while your there. Then go about bleeding. good luck __________________ 72 Chevy LWB leaf spring rear,SBC 385 Fast Burn,Art Carr built 700r4,3.73 Eaton posi,one piece windows,lowered 4/5.5, 60/40 seat, shaved turn signals,shaved reverse lights,shaved stake pockets, stainless steel 21gall in rear, c-notched, vintage air,ps,pb,currently doing body work. 68 Camaro conv.327,turbo 350,pb,disc brakes,built it for the wife 38 Chevy Coupe on the back burner LIFE IS GOOD! SMILE



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06-25-2004, 05:45 PM	#18
chevroletrucks Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Northwest,Indiana Posts: 128	Dont waste your time rebuilding them for the extra 3.00 just replace them. We used to rebuild'em back in the day and I'll tell you for three bucks it's not worth the time. Also if you do replace the shoes definitely replace the hardware. Hardware kits are pretty in-expensive and it's not worth the hassle of having a spring snap on you a month after you do your brakes. When you have all this apart just make sure your adjusters are free and you lube the backing plates where the shoes make contact. If you've never done drum barakes before my best suggestion to you is to do one side at a time so you can peek at the other side to see where springs go. Also the short shoe always faces the front of the truck the long shoe goes in the rear. (I see that all the time at my shop from do it yourself customers) Best of luck __________________ 67' Chevy C10 Lwb small rear window 71' Gmc 1500 custom 4x4 72' Gmc Grande Sierra

06-25-2004, 09:42 PM	#20
Rod Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Eastern - Manitoba Canada, Winnipeg Posts: 4,369	Hmm I never though about never-seizing the bleed screws also... just did my wifes car a couple weeks back cause I broke both here wheel cylinder bleed screws also. Good thing I did actually cause then I got to see the wheel cylinders were weeping anyway and needed replacing. And I did the shoes at same time. Drums were OK and within tolerances. While your there you might as well take a look and replace all whats needed. __________________ Senior active founding member. 70 3/4 ton GMC Suburban 4x4 250/4 spd. 71 1/2 ton Suburban Chevy 4x4, 350/350 72 Chev 1 ton tow truck 402BB w/Holmes 440 wrecker on propane 2005 FLSTSCI Harley Springer 85 FXSB Harley Lowrider 72 Triumph 650 Bonneville 5spd "Poor people don't have hobbies" Quote from wife.

06-25-2004, 10:55 PM	#21
franko72 Franko72 Join Date: May 2004 Location: Cincinnati,Ohio Posts: 471	Replace the wheel cylinders and dont over tighten the bleeder valve screws when bleeding the brakes __________________ 1972 C20 cheyenne Super 402 BB/400 turbo LWB A/C Tilt, Cruise Control, Saddle tanks, Tach My Home Page Better to burn out than it is to rust

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