Replacing the dash - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

shortshift · 06-25-2004, 08:24 AM

I am going to replace the dash on my 70 GMC Fleetside and need to know how hard it will be to do. Is it bolted to the firewall? Will I have to remove the windshield to do this? Any information on this will be appreciated. The original owned cut the dash for a radio and also drilled holes into it for switches for fog lights and other things and it really looks bad.

*Gee_Emm* · 06-25-2004, 09:11 AM

You can slice it behind the dash pad then re weld it back in. The hard part might be at the sides. It bolts in there but it is also spot welded sometimes. The spot welds are VERY hard to get out since you can't really get a drill in there. Here is a pic of one half out. I slit it along the top behind the dash pad, I also removed some of the excess metal in an attempt to get at the spot welds on the sides.

67chevemall · 06-25-2004, 11:21 AM

Sweet chair! Is that a OEM 7-11 special?

silvertonguedevil · 06-25-2004, 11:33 AM

Is that it's current condition or do you have more done since the photo was taken? I was planning on doing something similar but this kinda has me scared.

**Classic Heartbeat** · 06-25-2004, 11:44 AM

I cover the A/C dash swap in my "Panel Project" page of my website. I cut the dash under where the dash pad goes and unbolted it on both sides. Pretty strait forward, except when you run into the problems that I ran into. I also didn't run into the spot welds that Gee_Emm has discribed. Here is are a couple of pictures:

WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

silvertonguedevil · 06-25-2004, 11:50 AM

I'm not trying to take over your post here shortshift but Wes, couldn't a person just make templates and cut out the holes for the AC stuff. Seems to me that it would be less work.

**Classic Heartbeat** · 06-25-2004, 11:56 AM

Sure you could. I know someone who did, however I suspected rust under the end of the dash and the only way to find out for sure was to remove the dash. Good thing that I did to, I would have hated for that to surface on a finnished truck. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

junkyardjohn · 06-25-2004, 11:57 AM

I USUALLY JUST CUT HORIZONTALLY UNDER THE DASH PAD AREA, & VERTICALLY THRU THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER HOLE , & THRU THE GLOVEBOX HOLE. MY WELDING LOOKS LIKE DUCK SH!T, & THIS KEEPS ALMOST ALL OF IT OUT OF SIGHT.

JOHN

**Classic Heartbeat** · 06-25-2004, 11:59 AM

Here is what I found under the L/H side of my dash.

67chevemall · 06-25-2004, 12:09 PM

I have rust and a hole! Does this go through into the cowl vent area?

**Classic Heartbeat** · 06-25-2004, 12:19 PM

Yes that is part of the cowl vent area. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

*Gee_Emm* · 06-25-2004, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silvertonguedevil

Is that it's current condition or do you have more done since the photo was taken? I was planning on doing something similar but this kinda has me scared.

I initially took the dash out to replace it and to weld in a new windsheild frame but I gave up on that idea so that whole cab is long gone.

*Gee_Emm* · 06-25-2004, 01:39 PM

Also another option would be to take the windshield out and drill out the spot welds along the bottom of the frame. Then the entire dash would come out in one piece.

shortshift · 06-25-2004, 09:36 PM

WOW...this seems to be more complex than I thought. Maybe I should just cut and weld in the section where the radio goes, then just fill the holes that were drilled. This seems like the easiest solution. I will have to give this more thought. Thanks everyone for the imput!

krue · 06-25-2004, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shortshift

WOW...this seems to be more complex than I thought. Maybe I should just cut and weld in the section where the radio goes, then just fill the holes that were drilled. This seems like the easiest solution. I will have to give this more thought. Thanks everyone for the imput!

Probably the easiest way to go about it!

red71cheyenne · 06-25-2004, 11:18 PM

I did remove the whole dash on mine. It was labor intensive, but I wanted to be sure that the A pillars were solid inside. All I had to do was drill out all the spot welds and then split the seams, remove the dash side bolts and it all comes out in one piece. To reassemble, just line up both sides and bolt it in loosely, line up your seams on either side and then start welding it back together. Its labor intensive, but actually hard to screw up. I'm famous at screwing things up and this went back together like a dream. I wish I had pics, but my digicam sucks. I did not however, try to convert from non A/C to A/C, so I don't know how that whole thing would go. Good luck, Jeff.

pat · 07-18-2004, 04:22 PM

Does anybody know where all the spot welds are?

RON WOODGEARD · 07-18-2004, 06:00 PM

The only spot welds I found were under the windshield rubber. So you have to remove the windshield ! The dash panel connects to the outside body panel there. The tack welds are about every 6" apart. There is a drill bit made to drill through the dash panel, but not the outer panel, except for a small less then 1/4" pilot drill hole.. I was going to go with an A/C dash, but after taking one out of a wrecking yard donor, ( without the bit I mentioned) I decided I don't think I'll go with Air, or at least not factory Air.. because the holes in the firewall are also different.

If I were going to swap dashes, I would cut them where Wes did, and go that route.

06-25-2004, 08:24 AM	#1
shortshift Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 7	Replacing the dash I am going to replace the dash on my 70 GMC Fleetside and need to know how hard it will be to do. Is it bolted to the firewall? Will I have to remove the windshield to do this? Any information on this will be appreciated. The original owned cut the dash for a radio and also drilled holes into it for switches for fog lights and other things and it really looks bad.

06-25-2004, 11:21 AM	#3
67chevemall Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: NB Posts: 3,367	Sweet chair! Is that a OEM 7-11 special? __________________ 1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD

06-25-2004, 11:33 AM	#4
silvertonguedevil Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Seaside, Oregon Posts: 1,789	Is that it's current condition or do you have more done since the photo was taken? I was planning on doing something similar but this kinda has me scared. __________________ -Greg My Chevy trucks, past and present: 1962 C10 SB Fleetside 1964 C10 LB Fleetside BBW 1966 C10 SB Fleetside 1966 C10 SB Fleetside BBW 1968 C10 SB Fleetside 1971 C10 LB Fleetside 1971 C10 SB Fleetside 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1972 C10 LB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1974 C20 Cheyenne 1979 K5 Blazer Cheyenne 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Custom Deluxe 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Scottsdale 1986 C10 SB Fleetside Silverado 2008 Silverado 1500 4x4

06-25-2004, 11:44 AM	#5
Classic Heartbeat Project Junkie! Fishing Poor!! Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Olympia,Wa. 98512 Posts: 10,770	I cover the A/C dash swap in my "Panel Project" page of my website. I cut the dash under where the dash pad goes and unbolted it on both sides. Pretty strait forward, except when you run into the problems that I ran into. I also didn't run into the spot welds that Gee_Emm has discribed. Here is are a couple of pictures: WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com __________________ On-line catolog Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts WEHEPP@comcast.net Call us Toll Free (888) 338-2502 Like Us on Facebook No appointment necessary. 72 BB Chevy Custom Deluxe / Custom Camper 67 I-6 (Soon to be 5.7 LS1) Panel 68 BB Chevy Short Bed 72 6.0 LQ9 Short Bed Chevy 4X4 Olympia's fastest growing truck parts supplier. Olympia's home for Wayward Chevys

06-25-2004, 11:50 AM	#6
silvertonguedevil Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Seaside, Oregon Posts: 1,789	I'm not trying to take over your post here shortshift but Wes, couldn't a person just make templates and cut out the holes for the AC stuff. Seems to me that it would be less work. __________________ -Greg My Chevy trucks, past and present: 1962 C10 SB Fleetside 1964 C10 LB Fleetside BBW 1966 C10 SB Fleetside 1966 C10 SB Fleetside BBW 1968 C10 SB Fleetside 1971 C10 LB Fleetside 1971 C10 SB Fleetside 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1972 C10 LB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1974 C20 Cheyenne 1979 K5 Blazer Cheyenne 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Custom Deluxe 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Scottsdale 1986 C10 SB Fleetside Silverado 2008 Silverado 1500 4x4

06-25-2004, 09:11 AM	#2
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 4,002	You can slice it behind the dash pad then re weld it back in. The hard part might be at the sides. It bolts in there but it is also spot welded sometimes. The spot welds are VERY hard to get out since you can't really get a drill in there. Here is a pic of one half out. I slit it along the top behind the dash pad, I also removed some of the excess metal in an attempt to get at the spot welds on the sides.

06-25-2004, 11:56 AM	#7
Classic Heartbeat Project Junkie! Fishing Poor!! Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Olympia,Wa. 98512 Posts: 10,770	Sure you could. I know someone who did, however I suspected rust under the end of the dash and the only way to find out for sure was to remove the dash. Good thing that I did to, I would have hated for that to surface on a finnished truck. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com __________________ On-line catolog Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts WEHEPP@comcast.net Call us Toll Free (888) 338-2502 Like Us on Facebook No appointment necessary. 72 BB Chevy Custom Deluxe / Custom Camper 67 I-6 (Soon to be 5.7 LS1) Panel 68 BB Chevy Short Bed 72 6.0 LQ9 Short Bed Chevy 4X4 Olympia's fastest growing truck parts supplier. Olympia's home for Wayward Chevys Last edited by Classic Heartbeat; 06-25-2004 at 12:20 PM.

06-25-2004, 11:57 AM	#8
junkyardjohn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SOMERSET KY. Posts: 6,427	I USUALLY JUST CUT HORIZONTALLY UNDER THE DASH PAD AREA, & VERTICALLY THRU THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER HOLE , & THRU THE GLOVEBOX HOLE. MY WELDING LOOKS LIKE DUCK SH!T, & THIS KEEPS ALMOST ALL OF IT OUT OF SIGHT. JOHN __________________ junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST

06-25-2004, 11:59 AM	#9
Classic Heartbeat Project Junkie! Fishing Poor!! Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Olympia,Wa. 98512 Posts: 10,770	Here is what I found under the L/H side of my dash. __________________ On-line catolog Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts WEHEPP@comcast.net Call us Toll Free (888) 338-2502 Like Us on Facebook No appointment necessary. 72 BB Chevy Custom Deluxe / Custom Camper 67 I-6 (Soon to be 5.7 LS1) Panel 68 BB Chevy Short Bed 72 6.0 LQ9 Short Bed Chevy 4X4 Olympia's fastest growing truck parts supplier. Olympia's home for Wayward Chevys

06-25-2004, 12:09 PM	#10
67chevemall Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: NB Posts: 3,367	I have rust and a hole! Does this go through into the cowl vent area? __________________ 1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD Last edited by 67chevemall; 07-09-2010 at 02:29 PM.

06-25-2004, 12:19 PM	#11
Classic Heartbeat Project Junkie! Fishing Poor!! Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Olympia,Wa. 98512 Posts: 10,770	Yes that is part of the cowl vent area. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com __________________ On-line catolog Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts WEHEPP@comcast.net Call us Toll Free (888) 338-2502 Like Us on Facebook No appointment necessary. 72 BB Chevy Custom Deluxe / Custom Camper 67 I-6 (Soon to be 5.7 LS1) Panel 68 BB Chevy Short Bed 72 6.0 LQ9 Short Bed Chevy 4X4 Olympia's fastest growing truck parts supplier. Olympia's home for Wayward Chevys

06-25-2004, 01:39 PM	#13
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 4,002	Also another option would be to take the windshield out and drill out the spot welds along the bottom of the frame. Then the entire dash would come out in one piece.

06-25-2004, 09:36 PM	#14
shortshift Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 7	WOW...this seems to be more complex than I thought. Maybe I should just cut and weld in the section where the radio goes, then just fill the holes that were drilled. This seems like the easiest solution. I will have to give this more thought. Thanks everyone for the imput!

06-25-2004, 11:18 PM	#16
red71cheyenne Back in the sticks Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Fordland, MO Posts: 3,188	I did remove the whole dash on mine. It was labor intensive, but I wanted to be sure that the A pillars were solid inside. All I had to do was drill out all the spot welds and then split the seams, remove the dash side bolts and it all comes out in one piece. To reassemble, just line up both sides and bolt it in loosely, line up your seams on either side and then start welding it back together. Its labor intensive, but actually hard to screw up. I'm famous at screwing things up and this went back together like a dream. I wish I had pics, but my digicam sucks. I did not however, try to convert from non A/C to A/C, so I don't know how that whole thing would go. Good luck, Jeff. __________________ 1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty

07-18-2004, 04:22 PM	#17
pat Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Lindsay, TX Posts: 1,245	Does anybody know where all the spot welds are? __________________ 68 Chevy 383/350 w/shift kit, 380hp/425ft-lbs, 4.5/5 drop, 17" TT2s 64 Cadillac Sedan DeVille



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07-18-2004, 06:00 PM	#18
RON WOODGEARD Resident Young Old Dude ! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Nevada Posts: 1,948	The only spot welds I found were under the windshield rubber. So you have to remove the windshield ! The dash panel connects to the outside body panel there. The tack welds are about every 6" apart. There is a drill bit made to drill through the dash panel, but not the outer panel, except for a small less then 1/4" pilot drill hole.. I was going to go with an A/C dash, but after taking one out of a wrecking yard donor, ( without the bit I mentioned) I decided I don't think I'll go with Air, or at least not factory Air.. because the holes in the firewall are also different. If I were going to swap dashes, I would cut them where Wes did, and go that route.

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