07-06-2004, 09:05 PM | #1 |
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double flaring tools?
What is a good brand for a double flaring tool? I purchased one from Napa and it is so hard to use and does not produce very good flares. Is there any better ones out there?
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07-06-2004, 09:20 PM | #2 |
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Ridgid makes a good one, model 345, I special ordered through HomeDepot in Roseville, had it in two days. Teagarden Motorsports in Rancho Cordova has them in stock as well as the 45 degree tool for AN fittings. The 345 does a great job, I've used mine on standard tubing as well stainless steel.
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07-06-2004, 10:32 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
I use a Snap-On double flare set. It does a very good job.
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07-06-2004, 10:35 PM | #4 |
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at work we have a hand held hydraulic one made by Mastercool. complete set that will even do the push connect fuel lines. they are kind of spendy though ($375). I told him that if he wanted to repair brake lines either he does them himself with the old fashioned piece of crap or buy this.
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07-06-2004, 11:17 PM | #5 |
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I have had the same bluepoint dbl. flare tool for over ten years and it's always done the trick for me.
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07-07-2004, 01:07 AM | #6 |
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thanks ljbear, I will try to get down to Rancho this weekend and check that motorsports place out.
Besides the hydraulic one (which by the way I would love to have if I had the money ) do they all work the same, mine seems poorly designed it takes me 15 mintues to finish one flare and by the time I am done my hands are killing me.
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07-07-2004, 01:13 AM | #7 |
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Oh by the way what are AN fittings?
Does anyone know where I can buy snap-on tools? I don't know a dealer, can I buy from their website?
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1956 Chevy Napco 1972 Cheyenne Super 1970 K20 |
07-07-2004, 11:54 AM | #8 |
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AN fittings are aircraft stuff. They are 37 degree flare. Normal automotive stuff is 45 degree flare.
Snap_on tools are the best tools in the world. They are also almost the most expensive too. You can buy from their website.
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07-07-2004, 12:00 PM | #9 |
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Not 100% true. If you're flaring stainless steel you can't double-flare. It'll crack, so you're stuck with a single flare at 37 degrees. I know because I've tried it, and couldn't figure out why the tubing kept breaking until I asked someone.
I got my double-flaring tool and cutter as a kit from Eastwood. It works great on everything but stainless like I said. If I did it again though I'd probably go with Rigid. Snap-on is of course top of the line, but get your left arm ready to be lopped off.
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07-07-2004, 12:02 PM | #10 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
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What's not 100% true? I don't follow you.
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07-07-2004, 12:05 PM | #11 |
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I'm just saying that both kinds aren't mutually exclusive to aircraft and automotive. If you want to use stainless steel lines you're stuck with single flared 37 degrees.
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07-07-2004, 12:06 PM | #12 |
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Stainless is very hard to flare. I bought the hydraulic tool used on e-bay. It will do double flares in 3/16 stainless, if the tube is "soft stainless" . I had good luck with the the stuff from Inline tube.
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07-07-2004, 12:12 PM | #13 |
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Didn't know you could get "soft stainless". I ended up buying my lines pre-bent and pre-flaired from Inline Tube after my failed experiment. The flaring tool worked great on standard steel, but not on the stainless stock I bought. I guess next time I'll look into getting a different kind, or getting a 37 degree tool.
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07-07-2004, 12:14 PM | #14 |
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The AN stands for Army Navy. The 37 degree flares are used on Government contracts. It is supposed to be a better design and you can get the fittings from hotrod places. I thought of doing it with my ss lines, but was advised that the way to do them on trucks is to do a double 45 degree flare, and then use the 37 degree tool on it. It seemed to me that if I could do a good 45 degree flare I'd stop while I was ahead.
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07-07-2004, 12:25 PM | #15 |
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??? Yeah I agree. I thought you either do one or the other.
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07-07-2004, 10:31 PM | #16 |
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When you buy the SS tubing you also have to get the stuff that doesn't have the weld proud of the inside dia. for single flaring. It will leak at the weld because the flaring tube won't smooth the joint. The inside dia. is the sealing surface for the connection.
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