Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
07-10-2004, 09:53 PM | #1 |
LED King
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,087
|
Return of A/C and Quadrajet tuning
I finally got my A/C working again! Here are the parts I bought:
Orifice VALVE $22 Accumulator $44 Retrofit Kit $30 High pressure cutoff switch $10 Extra can of R134a $8 Extra can of Esther oil $8 Flush $14 Belt: $11 Junkyard compressor $45 Rebuilt compressor $138 Total: Around $325. Without my junkyard mistake you can save yourself a good $65. The extra can of oil and R134a is because I thought a junkyard compressor would work, but I gambled and lost as its front seal was bad. Had to use the extra stuff to make up for the oil and refrigereant I lost seeing that it didn't work. The tools needed are simple hand tools like wrenches, a manifold gauge set, vaccum pump, and flush canister. You also need access to shop air. My A/C now blows colder than I had ever had it and alot of people say this is the first retrofit that they have seen (felt) that actually cools as good as it did before. I think it is due to the orifice valve instead of the normal $2 orifice tube. If anyome need part numbers, I have them! I got the tools from my cousin's uncle who runs a farm and has all the equiptment to work on A/C systems. I started getting 3 mpg this week so I finally got to putting on a replacement stock electronically controlled quadrajet. I'm having a few problems. First, my original carb was a double pumper that turns off when the engine heats up. The replacement doesn't The plug to go to the control solinoid is different too so for now it stays unplugged. The truck will idle at 700rpm but if I rev it it gets stuck at 1700rpm and won't come down. Back the idle screw down and it will go to 500rpm. My fuel line is leaking where the flare from the fuel pump meets the fuel filter inlet. I'm trying to get a new line for it, but noone carries it. Only place that does is the chevy dealer. Anyone have the part # for that line? Any tips on adjusting this thing is also greatly appreciated.
__________________
Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32 |
07-11-2004, 06:15 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Hodgenville, Ky
Posts: 735
|
I have heard of using the orifice tube out of a F*ud to cause the retrofitted systems to blow cooler, but never a true valve. Where did you get it?
|
07-11-2004, 07:13 PM | #3 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
|
i'll be doing that same thing when i can afford it and whenever i find a better compressor that doesnt take away so much power
|
07-12-2004, 02:48 PM | #4 |
LED King
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,087
|
I got the orifice valve from Autozone. I usually get stuff from Kragen but they didn't even have it listed in the computer.
Eric - A/C compressors only use horsepower when they are on. Otherwise it is just an idler pully that might take 1/64 of one horsepower away. Basically nothing.
__________________
Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32 |
07-12-2004, 02:53 PM | #5 | |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
|
Quote:
|
|
07-12-2004, 02:58 PM | #6 |
LED King
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,087
|
Geo power eh?
__________________
Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32 Last edited by apstguy; 07-14-2004 at 01:40 PM. |
Bookmarks |
|
|