replaceing trailing arm bushings..HOW TO???

[SWINGSAX68]

Okay there are two types of bushings I can get from CHEVYDUTY....the polyurethane ones that make a note of "you must reuse the original outer sleeves".....and the original rubber bushings that look like they come with the outer sleeve. What I want to know is.....HOW do they differ when installing them. which are easier to install on the control arm???? Is a press needed for removal and installation, or can it be done under the vehicle????
thanks guys...

[Shane]

you are gonna have lots of fun with this one!

My recommendation is go with the factory replacements ... the poly requires that you "re-use" the outer shell of the old ones ... which you will destroy attempting to remove in the first place.

Find yourself a vise and a big freekin' hammer ... or a friend with a hydraulic press.

[SWINGSAX68]

Do i need to remove the trailing arms completely???? or can I just undo them from the cross member while still attached to the rear end??? can this work be done under the truck????

[64fleetside]

Remove arms, set bushings on fire using torch, let rubber drip out, leave metal shells, pop frozen urethane bushings in while arms are still warm. Brian

[SWINGSAX68]

Originally Posted by 64fleetside

pop frozen urethane bushings in while arms are still warm. Brian

Are you suggesting that the urethane bushings be frozen prior to liquifying the older ones to insert the new ones?????? Also can the bushing nuts and bolts and trailing arm ubolts and nuts be reused with out any problems???????

[alta-aj]

I have a 72 Jimmy that I've had for 4 years or so and I've been working on it. When I first got it, it was hardly driveable as it wandered so bad. It has since received a power steering system from a late 70's 2wd. Blazer, a new idler arm, both lower ball joints and a wheel alignment. All the tie rod ends, pitman arm etc. are tight and in good shape. Although it is now a LOT better, it still wants to wander. That is, you constantly have to be correcting one way or the other when you are driving down the road. Is there a chance that the trailing arm bushings could be the problem? How do I test them to find out if they are warn?

[64fleetside]

yeah, the temperature difference negate the need for a press, they will drive in w/mallet or hammer/block of wood. Brian

[bucket]

when i replaced mine, i went with the poly bushings. used a propane torch to melt out the old ones. the new bushings came with a lubricant. eased right in with help from a 'c' clamp.

[bucket]

and yes, i did replaced them while on the truck.

[PTS Kustoms]

Do not get in a hurry! You will screw up the outer shells. New GM bushing with shells are not cheap unless you run urethane which utilizes the factory outer shell. I did what everyone else did! Burn the rubber out with a torch.

[1972C10]

I took a torch already suggested. melted the old ones out let it cool then took a wire brush on a die grinder and cleaned out the hole the new ones popped right in . I think i used prothane or energy suspenion Prolly energy since thats what most everything else on the truck is.

[incoma]

Well, I did it the hard way. I pressed my old bushings out using a press at work. I had my arms powder coated, then I pressed in the new ones. If you use the stock bushings be careful to press them in the correct way. One of the ends of the shell is a larger diameter than the other end. Again, i did this the hard way... One's installed permanently backwards. Everything seemed to line up correctly though. I'll find out for sure next month when I get it on the road..