Dumb question about painting an engine?

[jorgensensc]

Kinda a dumb question, but here it is:
I noticed alot of guys and engine builders put a block together with pan, timing cover,heads, and even the fuel pump then paint the whole thing one color. Does doing this help seal the motor and all the gasket interfaces? I only ask because I personall like it when the block is one color (maybe orange), the heads a different color (maybe black), timing cover, etc.
I am not putting anyones work down at all, I'm just curious as to the thought process or tecknique being used if any. Or is it just easier and that is why builders do it?
Thanks and I hope no one takes offense to this thread if your engine looks like this, because mine does too, but it drives me crazy.
Shawn

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Paint should be how YOU like it. I painted front cover and pan the same because its easier and you dont see much of them in the truck. I'll most likely do the heads Black.

[jorgensensc]

I hope you don't think I was targetting you or your engine! I was asking because My engine was done the same way and I didn't know if there was some sealing property associated with painting everything or if it was easier to do. I truly hope you didn't take offense to the post, it was not directed at you. BTW that is a great looking engine. I have always loved bright orange blocks!
Shawn

[Tx Firefighter]

I use only POR-15 engine paint or normal automotive urethane paint on my engines. I feel that painting it all together does help to stave off leaks somewhat.

For me, the secret is to never use rattle can engine paint. Once you've painted on with normal car paint and a paint gun, you'll never go back.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

No offence taken, thanks for the compliments

[stickshift_or_walk]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

For me, the secret is to never use rattle can engine paint. Once you've painted on with normal car paint and a paint gun, you'll never go back.

Tx,

I'm about to step up from the rattle can mode myself, and I can see from your previous pics/posts that you seem to have it pretty well figured out. Got a recommendation on a gun?

Thanks...SSOW

[Tx Firefighter]

I have a 500 dollar pro gun and a 69 dollar Harbor Freight gun....

see ya at Harbor Freight.....

It shoots as good as I can. The 500 dollar gun is a deadly weapon in the right hands, but for my skills, the cheap one kicks booty just as well.

It's the gravity feed one with the white plastic cup.

[COBALT]

Well, my opinion is Harbor Freight = Harbor Fright, but I digress.

I agree 100% with rattle-can engine paint. I've only used it once, and will NEVER again. Getting it to adhere is one problem, but once your engine heats up a few times watch the paint come off in crusty little flakes. It's terrible, and later on it looks downright amaturish.

If you have a compressor, and a good spray gun it's also a good way to practice before you commit to painting a put-together expensive engine. Get your hands on some old junky intake, or something else that's steel or cast iron. Take it to a machine shop and have it dipped for $25. Then take it home and use your engine paint and the spray gun on it to see how it turns out. If it turns out sucky (won't adhere, runs, looks like hell), then take it to have it dipped again, and try a different paint. Of course this doesn't help with seeing how it reacts when it reaches operating temp, but at least you wont' be shooting your engine with paint you aren't sure about.

I think it's money well spent to practice, (especially if you have ZERO auto painting experience like me) because once you have that expensive engine ready to paint you'll know what to expect from the paint itself. Just my opinion.

[smokekiki]

The biggest reason to paint the complete package is speed.You only have to tape off a few openings instead of taping each individule piece.At home do it how You want,production shops just don't take the time.

[Zumo]

Unfortunatly all I have access to is rattle can so that's what I will be using. I try to get what I call a "high quality" paint and paint to my heart's desire.

[Shane65]

Here's what I did since I don't have access to a spray booth or equipment. I cleaned and prepped the block. Got the closest colour I could to what I wanted(Chevy engine orange in my case) and brushed on two coats being careful not to get any runs. Once It had dried I gave it a top coat with the rattle can. The advantage here is the base coat seems to stick real good and the paint is thick enough. Had I used a rattle can to get the same thickness, I'd have worn out my index finger not to mention the cost of many rattle cans. The rattle can is more to correct the colour although my base was really close. Turned out great.

[TEXAS 68]

[QUOTE=Tx Firefighter]I use only POR-15 engine paint or normal automotive urethane paint on my engines. I feel that painting it all together does help to stave off leaks somewhat.

Tx, so your saying you can use the same paint on engine as the body panels? ie:bc/cc

[smokekiki]

POR-15 works good brushed on to.When you buy one of thier engine kits it actually comes with brushes.And yes you can spay the engine in body color.

[Tx Firefighter]

[QUOTE=TEXAS 68]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I use only POR-15 engine paint or normal automotive urethane paint on my engines. I feel that painting it all together does help to stave off leaks somewhat.

Tx, so your saying you can use the same paint on engine as the body panels? ie:bc/cc

Yep, base clear PPG urethane. I saw an article in a magazine many years ago about how Boyd Coddington's crew used plain old car paint on all of their stuff. I tried it and it works superbly. High gloss, real tough, and it matches the vehicle's color exactly.

[Tx Firefighter]

If you will do a search on here, you will see tons of pictures of my 454 that I painted with POR-15 and a brush. There's even a couple of pics that show me painting it. The girls usually like those a lot.

[72bigblock4wd]

If you use rattlecans, I recommend the VHT paint. I've used it before and for me it's always held up well. I think the main thing is prep. I wasn't tearing my 454 apart, so dipping it was out of the question for obvious reasons. I went through 5 cans of degreaser with a wire scrub brush. Let it dry for a while, then took a wirewheel with a drill to it to get the last remnants of the grease. Lastly, I sprayed the motor down with brake parts cleaner to remove any grease, and it preps the surface pretty good. I put three coats of Chevy Orange VHT engine paint on my 454 and it turned out great.

[Budweis]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I feel that painting it all together does help to stave off leaks somewhat.

your kidding yourself then cus if it leaks it will just bubble the paint and come out eventually.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Budweis

your kidding yourself then cus if it leaks it will just bubble the paint and come out eventually.

I think you must have never used POR 15 engine paint then. Something under no pressure like valve covers gaskets, timing cover or oil pan gaskets is less likely to leak because the gasket is further sealed by the paint.

I assure you, I don't make it a habit to kid myself. I find myself to have no sense of humor when kidded by myself. (that sounds weird)

[71Longbed]

A great product for degreasing an engine before paint is Castrol Super clean any of you thinking of degresing as well as stripping paint with minimal scrubbing this one is for you i used it on my 350 i had tons of grease i soaked the engine in this stuff and it melted all the grease and eventually the paint came of them i hit the block with the paint and it looks great care full not to use it around stuff you dont plan on painting or while engine is in truck cuz this stuff will srtip the grase and paint right off of your chassyand engine bay
for around five bucks a gallon its a product well worth it

[68cajun]

I like to smooth the block with a sanding disc on a die grinder after cleaning several times. then cleanit one more time and paint it in peices. I also like to install brass freeze plugs after the block has been painted, i think it makes the engine look more factory and profesional. The pan and timing cover, and valve covers painted a different color look better to me also. JMO

[junkyardjohn]

WHEN I REBUILD A MOTOR, I LIKE TO DEBURR THE WHOLE BLOCK, REMOVING ALL CASTING FLANGES, & ALL SHARP EDGES. (TAKES ABOUT 15 MIN.) NEXT I SAND THE LIFTER GALLY SMOOTH & FREE OF ALL CASTING PORES. THIS TAKES 5 OR 10 MINUTES LONGER THAN DEBURRING THE BLOCK, BUT MAKES THE OIL RETURN TO THE PAN FASTER. (SAME AS PAINTING, BUT WITH NO FEAR OF THE PAINT COMING LOOSE OR PEALING, & GETTING INTO YOUR CYLINDERS OR BEARINGS) I WASH THE INSIDE & OUT SIDE OF THE MOTOR WITH DISH SOAP. VERY VERY WELL .BEFORE I PAINT, I WIPE THE MOTOR DOWN WITH LAQUER THINNER.NEXT I PAINT THE OIL PAN OFF THE MOTOR. THEN I PAINT THE OUTSIDE OF THE MOTOR. I MASK OFF THE HEAD BOLTS & THE BRASS FREEZE PLUGS. I LIKE MY CHEVY MOTORS ALL CHEVY ORANGE.
JOHN

[bucket]

FWIW, i have had god luck with the rattlecan VHT. Bought from northern auto. Has held up perfectly except around the center ports on the intake manifold.

[68w/sbc406]

i also have good luck (so far, only got 5000 miles out of the motor so far) with VHT. i used orange (high temp of course) on the block and water pump and simi-gloss black on the pan timing cover and headers. when i painted everything, i degreased the piss out of the surface so the paint would stick. there is also directions (yes i read the directions) on the side of the can about a baking process to set the paint harder to with stand the 1500 degrees but who has an oven that goes up to 600 degrees that a set of headers can fit in?