Bad bondo in drip guard - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Red69stepside · 07-20-2004, 02:28 PM

I'm seeing that the drip guard around the top of my cab has beex "fixed" by basically filling it up with bondo, welding garbage or some goop. Looks like the joint between the roof and sides of the cab had been rusted out and fixed with a heavy hand.

I'd like to remove the gutter completely and install one of those chrome or stainless ones.

Does this sound possible or will the top fall off and sides collapse if I remove the existing drip guard?

**CPNE** · 07-20-2004, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red69stepside

I'm seeing that the drip guard around the top of my cab has beex "fixed" by basically filling it up with bondo, welding garbage or some goop. Looks like the joint between the roof and sides of the cab had been rusted out and fixed with a heavy hand.

Take a pic for us. Believe it or not, what you describe could possible be the factory seam sealer, not a PO fix. If it's been leaking you'll most than likely have rust thru in the inner roof skin above the windshield and rust around the windshield under the gasket. If rust in those area is not a problem, you can scrape out the old and apply new if you so wish.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red69stepside

I'd like to remove the gutter completely and install one of those chrome or stainless ones.

I may be wrong on this but the gutter trim is just that, trim pieces not replacement pieces. Similar to a door edge guard.

If it were mine, I'd clean out the gutter and reseal, getting rid of any surface rust while at it. Removing and replacing sounds to drastic unless there is serious cancer involved.

Bamm · 07-20-2004, 04:03 PM

Shave it!!!!!!! Really, CPNE is right, when I first got my truck home I thought that their must have been a half gallon of bondo in the drip rail, turns out it was badly dried out and cracking factory seam sealer of some sort.........Jerry

Harold Shepard · 07-20-2004, 04:40 PM

The stainless drip moldings clip over the existing factory rails and are a pain to put on. They rely on a interference fit and if everything is not perfect they can be a real b----!!!! I know from experience- had to have rails repainted after attempting to put a set on... Shave what you've got or fix them, you mght check on '73 up pieces and see if they would work out for you- they do bolt on.

Dick Dale · 07-20-2004, 04:47 PM

I have the same factory sealer on mine. It was rust free ten years ago when my dad picked it up in Oklahoma. 10 years in the Chicagoland area and used as a work truck means it now needs rockers, door skins, corners, you know. But that crap is factory. What do you replace it with or should I just take it out and paint it?

Harold Shepard · 07-20-2004, 05:29 PM

I used the duramix self leveling seam sealer. It's about $20 bucks a pop a NAPA and requires a special gun to put it in but it turns out nice.

07-20-2004, 02:28 PM	#1
Red69stepside Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Washougal, WA Posts: 110	Bad bondo in drip guard I'm seeing that the drip guard around the top of my cab has beex "fixed" by basically filling it up with bondo, welding garbage or some goop. Looks like the joint between the roof and sides of the cab had been rusted out and fixed with a heavy hand. I'd like to remove the gutter completely and install one of those chrome or stainless ones. Does this sound possible or will the top fall off and sides collapse if I remove the existing drip guard? __________________ 69 Stepside. Rebuilt 327, HT 350 tranny, Holley carb, Edelbrook intake; Flowmaster dual 2.5-inch exhaust.

07-20-2004, 04:03 PM	#3
Bamm Cowboy Fan for Life!!!!!! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Amelia, Virginia Posts: 2,921	Shave it!!!!!!! Really, CPNE is right, when I first got my truck home I thought that their must have been a half gallon of bondo in the drip rail, turns out it was badly dried out and cracking factory seam sealer of some sort.........Jerry __________________ 1967 ShortBed Fleetside 3/4 Drop 350/700R4 Tilt wheel 18 x 8 Torque Thrust II's Future mods: All new gauges & wood bed My Zip is 23002 I ship UPS, USPS

07-20-2004, 04:47 PM	#5
Dick Dale Excelsior, You Fathead. Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Valparaiso, In Posts: 937	I have the same factory sealer on mine. It was rust free ten years ago when my dad picked it up in Oklahoma. 10 years in the Chicagoland area and used as a work truck means it now needs rockers, door skins, corners, you know. But that crap is factory. What do you replace it with or should I just take it out and paint it? __________________ Go Navy. The Sea Is Ours. Budget 350 Build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...38#post2264638

07-20-2004, 04:40 PM	#4
Harold Shepard Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Canton North Carolina Posts: 466	The stainless drip moldings clip over the existing factory rails and are a pain to put on. They rely on a interference fit and if everything is not perfect they can be a real b----!!!! I know from experience- had to have rails repainted after attempting to put a set on... Shave what you've got or fix them, you mght check on '73 up pieces and see if they would work out for you- they do bolt on.

07-20-2004, 05:29 PM	#6
Harold Shepard Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Canton North Carolina Posts: 466	I used the duramix self leveling seam sealer. It's about $20 bucks a pop a NAPA and requires a special gun to put it in but it turns out nice.



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