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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washougal, WA
Posts: 110
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Bad bondo in drip guard
I'm seeing that the drip guard around the top of my cab has beex "fixed" by basically filling it up with bondo, welding garbage or some goop. Looks like the joint between the roof and sides of the cab had been rusted out and fixed with a heavy hand.
I'd like to remove the gutter completely and install one of those chrome or stainless ones. Does this sound possible or will the top fall off and sides collapse if I remove the existing drip guard?
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69 Stepside. Rebuilt 327, HT 350 tranny, Holley carb, Edelbrook intake; Flowmaster dual 2.5-inch exhaust. |
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#2 | ||
Resident Curmudgeon
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: NH
Posts: 6,664
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Quote:
Quote:
If it were mine, I'd clean out the gutter and reseal, getting rid of any surface rust while at it. Removing and replacing sounds to drastic unless there is serious cancer involved.
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Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter ![]() Maybe I need to sell some of this crap ![]() Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all |
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#3 |
Cowboy Fan for Life!!!!!!
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Amelia, Virginia
Posts: 2,921
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Shave it!!!!!!! Really, CPNE is right, when I first got my truck home I thought that their must have been a half gallon of bondo in the drip rail, turns out it was badly dried out and cracking factory seam sealer of some sort.........Jerry
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1967 ShortBed Fleetside 3/4 Drop 350/700R4 Tilt wheel 18 x 8 Torque Thrust II's Future mods: All new gauges & wood bed My Zip is 23002 I ship UPS, USPS |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Canton North Carolina
Posts: 466
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The stainless drip moldings clip over the existing factory rails and are a pain to put on. They rely on a interference fit and if everything is not perfect they can be a real b----!!!! I know from experience- had to have rails repainted after attempting to put a set on... Shave what you've got or fix them, you mght check on '73 up pieces and see if they would work out for you- they do bolt on.
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#5 |
Excelsior, You Fathead.
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Valparaiso, In
Posts: 937
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I have the same factory sealer on mine. It was rust free ten years ago when my dad picked it up in Oklahoma. 10 years in the Chicagoland area and used as a work truck means it now needs rockers, door skins, corners, you know. But that crap is factory. What do you replace it with or should I just take it out and paint it?
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Go Navy. The Sea Is Ours. Budget 350 Build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...38#post2264638 |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Canton North Carolina
Posts: 466
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I used the duramix self leveling seam sealer. It's about $20 bucks a pop a NAPA and requires a special gun to put it in but it turns out nice.
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