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Old 07-29-2004, 03:34 PM   #1
72BLAZERDUDE
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Alternator replacement

I want to replace my tired old stock alternator and reg with a higher amp internally regulated 3 wire alternator. Did this come stock on anything or what do I need to ask for at the parts store. Counterman looking up parts without a year and make is sometimes scary. Most dont know what to do if its not an exact replacement.
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Old 07-29-2004, 05:38 PM   #2
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i used one from a 79 suburban when i completed my conversion. it puts out alot more amps than the factory piece.
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Old 07-29-2004, 05:54 PM   #3
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I used one from an 84 Camaro.
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Old 07-29-2004, 08:26 PM   #4
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This is what I did....http://classicgmtrucks.proboards33.c...num=1089998112
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Old 07-29-2004, 10:36 PM   #5
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I put a 100 amp alt. on my truck from a mid 80's caprice. I think if you go to the ever popular www. madelectrical.com that also help you out especially with the wiring.

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Old 08-18-2004, 03:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miket
I have a CS130 alternator from an '89 C1500 that I'm swapping into my '69 C10. The CS only had one red (heavy gauge) wire and one brown (16 or so gauge) on the factory setup. I read Mike's post above about the requirement for a 47-ohm resistor in the circuit on the brown wire.

On the chevelles.com site, there's another pretty good article on the swap to SI/CS alternators, and it says that the resistor is needed on the brown wire only if you're not running an idiot light. If you have the idiot light in the circuit, the bulb provides enough resistance for the alternator to behave correctly.

Can someone confirm or correct this before I wire it up? Appreciate the help.

Thanks...SSOW
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Old 08-18-2004, 03:38 PM   #7
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If you are going to remove your old generator with an external regulator and convert over to an internal regulated altenator it really isn't that hard more amps less problems well worth the time.just remember to disconnect the voltage regulator on your rad support and you can jump pin 1 to pin 3 ,and jump pin 2 to pin 4 this can be done from either side. OR buy a jumper plug that you just plug in which you can get from somone or somewhere on this board.You can also get the conversion plug as well for your altenator without having to cut any wires at allit will just plug in to your old plug and install to your new altenator.Some models have a black wire as well and all you have to do is ground it to your new altenator casing the large red wire goes on the back blue and white go into the side and black to the casing for ground. good luck hope this is a help..for those with a singal wire it is posted in this thread.
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Old 08-18-2004, 04:30 PM   #8
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Thanks ChevMan, already jumped that hurdle and eliminated the external regulator.

I found another article (this time on NovaResource.com) that covers this information, specifically about the CS alternator, and confirms that the resistor is only needed when the idiot light is not present, such as with a voltage gauge. Guess I just need to make darn sure the bulb is good .

SSOW...
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Old 08-18-2004, 05:14 PM   #9
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Sitckshift that is correct. I had a gauge. Make darn sure you test the circuit the idiot light is on before doing all this----no need to get everything done just to fry an alternator. :p
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Old 08-18-2004, 06:44 PM   #10
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earlier thread
That will tell you how to rewire it.
stickshift_or_walk. This is basically that setup from the chevelles site, just with pictures.

chevyman-67 said:
Quote:
you can jump pin 1 to pin 3 ,and jump pin 2 to pin 4
uhhhh.... no.
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Old 08-18-2004, 07:13 PM   #11
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By the way--I did a diagram---think I posted it earlier in this thread.

http://classicgmtrucks.proboards33.c...num=1089998112
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