08-08-2004, 11:35 PM | #1 |
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speaker box diagrams?
okay, i wanna make a amp/sub box for behind my seat. i need to get it done soon.
i wanna have it cover the whole area behind the bench seat. it needs to hold 2 amps and 2 10's. i was planning on doing it off of the plans that mike made for his truck and just adjusting them some, but the measurements he has wouldnt work without having to have my seat pretty far up. from what i measured i would need the depth of the box to be around 6"-7" at the bottom and around 3"-3.5" at top. anyone wanna make me a plan? if its good i'll paypal ya 5 bucks i need measurements and all that stuff. i want the box to be about as tall as mike's is(all he way to the bottom of the hump before the rear window. |
08-09-2004, 12:25 AM | #2 |
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When i build mine i always measure the bottom ledge and the top figure out my airspace wich is very important Pretty pointless to build a box that isnt for your paticular speakers I dont recall the formula to figure airspace off the top of my head.
Its pretty hard to build a box that keeps legroom unless you use a cheapo speaker most good speakers are really deep due to an enormus magnet. |
08-09-2004, 12:40 AM | #3 |
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also, you will need to know the depth of your speakers. JL W7's wont fit
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08-09-2004, 01:34 AM | #4 |
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specs on subs i may get:
top mount depth: 5-9/16" sealed box volume: 0.75 cu. ft. ported box volume: 1.75 cu. ft. would this box be good? 5 1/8" top depth 9 1/8" bottom depth |
08-09-2004, 01:42 AM | #5 |
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You want to build a sealed box or ported Im a fan of a sealed box myself But I can miter all the joints for an air tight seal.
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08-09-2004, 01:50 AM | #6 |
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probably a sealed box i suppose
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08-09-2004, 01:51 AM | #7 |
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Will 9 1/8 on the bottom let your seat back all the way . I will contact my friend tommorow he knows the formula.
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08-09-2004, 01:56 AM | #8 |
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9 1/8" will be fine with me. my old box with one 12" was the same size
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08-09-2004, 01:58 AM | #9 |
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Ill get something figured out for you tommorow.
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08-09-2004, 02:00 AM | #10 |
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To seal the last box I built, I covered it entirely with fiberglass, and siliconed the inside of the box, then used bondo over the whole box to make it perfectly smooth, and painted with with some metallic red stuff, my buddy loved it, and it POUNDS
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08-09-2004, 02:04 AM | #11 |
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Friend of mine wanted to build a fiberglass box. I want to make another Mdf box and get a router put a rounded edge all the way around and under coat it.
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08-09-2004, 02:07 AM | #12 |
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i have a large sheet of 1/2" mdf i'll be using. my friend works at a car audio shop and will help some. he does a bunch of installs and crap.
i just need to make a plan on what i need to cut and that stuff. i would like for the amps to be recessed into the box of course. maybe a plexiglass window covering the amps or something like that |
08-09-2004, 02:09 AM | #13 |
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you going with one speak right? If it was mine i would build the back to go however wide you want then put the sides and front on and leave the back be mount your amps then get creative just be sure to have some airflow.
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08-09-2004, 02:13 AM | #14 |
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If you are going with a single sub, stick it into the middle, and put an amp on either side, if you are going with two subs, mount the subs on either side, and recess the center part of it and install the amps there if they will fit, or put one amp there, and the other under your seat.
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08-09-2004, 02:14 AM | #15 |
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two 10" subs
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08-09-2004, 03:15 AM | #16 |
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quick mockup i did in paint:
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08-09-2004, 03:24 AM | #17 |
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Make sure that the two subs are separated, if they share the same airspace, it can cause some interference if one sub is getting more power than the other, or something...
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08-09-2004, 03:28 AM | #18 |
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We used to bridge our amps and cross one speaker But that was back in the day on bandpass's
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08-09-2004, 04:11 AM | #19 |
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1 amp is gonna be a 2 channel for the subs
the other amp is gonna be a 4 channel for the 5.25 components and the 3.5 speakers |
08-09-2004, 10:01 AM | #20 |
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I use coarse drywall screws and predrill with a countersink bit Brush the seams with elmers carpenters glue and so far so good. i put some silocone on one Friend of mine insisted on it I vaugly recall reading somewhere that you can use polyurethane glue for better joints on MDF but you have to brush water on the board first. ? I think they were talking about gorilla glue in paticular.
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08-09-2004, 10:02 AM | #21 | |
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Quote:
To seal the box when using MDF build it where the back is removeable. Use wood glue and an air nailer. If you don't have an air nailer you can use drywall screws to put everything together. I prefer to pre-drill pilot holes if I use drywall screws. Once all the front is together run a healthy bead of clear silicone at every joint inside the box. When your sure everything is to your satisfaction use the same process to glue/screw/nail the back on..... |
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08-09-2004, 10:45 AM | #22 |
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If you really want a sub box that pounds hard, mix fine blasting sand with polyester resin and liberally coat the inside of the box with it. It'll be heavy and it sure won't leak. You may even want to put several layers to get enough of it on all surfaces.
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08-09-2004, 11:57 AM | #23 |
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Eric,
I think your pic looks good but I would put the amps in the middle and the subs to the outside. This way, you can recess the middle so the amps don't stick out into the seat back. Subs are non directional, but I believe it would sound better with the greater separtion. Plus with the amps in the middle, it's easier to wire them up because all the wire can be run on the hump.
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08-09-2004, 12:38 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
The formula to calculate airspace is L X W X H/1728
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Gary -1986 SWB: lowered 4/6, SOLD!!! -Best 1/4 mile: 14.51 @ 91.01 MPH -2001 Pewter Tahoe, billet grill, Corsa Sport Cat-back, K&N FIPK SOLD!!! -2004 Z-71 Extended cab with a flowmaster, BDS 6.5", 3" BL, 35x12.5x18 Trail Grapplers on Pro-Comp 18x9 wheels Last edited by gldevall; 08-09-2004 at 12:49 PM. |
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08-09-2004, 06:53 PM | #25 | |
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