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Old 08-08-2004, 11:35 PM   #1
ocbaud
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speaker box diagrams?

okay, i wanna make a amp/sub box for behind my seat. i need to get it done soon.

i wanna have it cover the whole area behind the bench seat. it needs to hold 2 amps and 2 10's.

i was planning on doing it off of the plans that mike made for his truck and just adjusting them some, but the measurements he has wouldnt work without having to have my seat pretty far up.

from what i measured i would need the depth of the box to be around 6"-7" at the bottom and around 3"-3.5" at top.

anyone wanna make me a plan? if its good i'll paypal ya 5 bucks i need measurements and all that stuff. i want the box to be about as tall as mike's is(all he way to the bottom of the hump before the rear window.
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Old 08-09-2004, 12:25 AM   #2
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When i build mine i always measure the bottom ledge and the top figure out my airspace wich is very important Pretty pointless to build a box that isnt for your paticular speakers I dont recall the formula to figure airspace off the top of my head.

Its pretty hard to build a box that keeps legroom unless you use a cheapo speaker most good speakers are really deep due to an enormus magnet.
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Old 08-09-2004, 12:40 AM   #3
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also, you will need to know the depth of your speakers. JL W7's wont fit
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Old 08-09-2004, 01:34 AM   #4
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specs on subs i may get:
top mount depth: 5-9/16"
sealed box volume: 0.75 cu. ft.
ported box volume: 1.75 cu. ft.

would this box be good?
5 1/8" top depth
9 1/8" bottom depth
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Old 08-09-2004, 01:42 AM   #5
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You want to build a sealed box or ported Im a fan of a sealed box myself But I can miter all the joints for an air tight seal.
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Old 08-09-2004, 01:50 AM   #6
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probably a sealed box i suppose
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Old 08-09-2004, 01:51 AM   #7
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Will 9 1/8 on the bottom let your seat back all the way . I will contact my friend tommorow he knows the formula.
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Old 08-09-2004, 01:56 AM   #8
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9 1/8" will be fine with me. my old box with one 12" was the same size
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Old 08-09-2004, 01:58 AM   #9
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Ill get something figured out for you tommorow.
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:00 AM   #10
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To seal the last box I built, I covered it entirely with fiberglass, and siliconed the inside of the box, then used bondo over the whole box to make it perfectly smooth, and painted with with some metallic red stuff, my buddy loved it, and it POUNDS
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:04 AM   #11
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Friend of mine wanted to build a fiberglass box. I want to make another Mdf box and get a router put a rounded edge all the way around and under coat it.
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:07 AM   #12
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i have a large sheet of 1/2" mdf i'll be using. my friend works at a car audio shop and will help some. he does a bunch of installs and crap.

i just need to make a plan on what i need to cut and that stuff. i would like for the amps to be recessed into the box of course. maybe a plexiglass window covering the amps or something like that
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:09 AM   #13
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you going with one speak right? If it was mine i would build the back to go however wide you want then put the sides and front on and leave the back be mount your amps then get creative just be sure to have some airflow.
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:13 AM   #14
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If you are going with a single sub, stick it into the middle, and put an amp on either side, if you are going with two subs, mount the subs on either side, and recess the center part of it and install the amps there if they will fit, or put one amp there, and the other under your seat.
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:14 AM   #15
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two 10" subs
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Old 08-09-2004, 03:15 AM   #16
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quick mockup i did in paint:

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Old 08-09-2004, 03:24 AM   #17
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Make sure that the two subs are separated, if they share the same airspace, it can cause some interference if one sub is getting more power than the other, or something...
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Old 08-09-2004, 03:28 AM   #18
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We used to bridge our amps and cross one speaker But that was back in the day on bandpass's
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Old 08-09-2004, 04:11 AM   #19
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1 amp is gonna be a 2 channel for the subs

the other amp is gonna be a 4 channel for the 5.25 components and the 3.5 speakers
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Old 08-09-2004, 10:01 AM   #20
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I use coarse drywall screws and predrill with a countersink bit Brush the seams with elmers carpenters glue and so far so good. i put some silocone on one Friend of mine insisted on it I vaugly recall reading somewhere that you can use polyurethane glue for better joints on MDF but you have to brush water on the board first. ? I think they were talking about gorilla glue in paticular.
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Old 08-09-2004, 10:02 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1972C10
... I want to make another Mdf box and get a router put a rounded edge all the way around and under coat it.
Use a belt sander or D/A and course paper instead. MDF is pretty hard and creates a lot of heat when rounding the corners with a router bit. It cuts down really quick with a sander.....

To seal the box when using MDF build it where the back is removeable. Use wood glue and an air nailer. If you don't have an air nailer you can use drywall screws to put everything together. I prefer to pre-drill pilot holes if I use drywall screws.

Once all the front is together run a healthy bead of clear silicone at every joint inside the box. When your sure everything is to your satisfaction use the same process to glue/screw/nail the back on.....
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Old 08-09-2004, 10:45 AM   #22
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If you really want a sub box that pounds hard, mix fine blasting sand with polyester resin and liberally coat the inside of the box with it. It'll be heavy and it sure won't leak. You may even want to put several layers to get enough of it on all surfaces.
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Old 08-09-2004, 11:57 AM   #23
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Eric,

I think your pic looks good but I would put the amps in the middle and the subs to the outside. This way, you can recess the middle so the amps don't stick out into the seat back. Subs are non directional, but I believe it would sound better with the greater separtion. Plus with the amps in the middle, it's easier to wire them up because all the wire can be run on the hump.
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Old 08-09-2004, 12:38 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N2TRUX
Use wood glue and an air nailer. If you don't have an air nailer you can use drywall screws to put everything together.
Substitute Liquid nails(for projects) for the wood glue.

The formula to calculate airspace is L X W X H/1728
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Old 08-09-2004, 06:53 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gldevall
Substitute Liquid nails(for projects) for the wood glue.
The formula to calculate airspace is L X W X H/1728
Liquid nails works just fine for a single box. I learned the wood glue method from working at the stereo shop that sponsored my stereo compitetion car. Wood glue is much cheaper, cleans up with a wet rag, and doesn't leave an odor. Either one will get the job done though....
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