Rear wheel bearings

[rays68]

I need to change out my rearend bearings in the blazer and was wondering how hard would it be to do this so I thought I would ask all of you for your input.

[RockHQ]

Wheel bearings on 10/12 bolt are easy, though time consuming. You need to pop the differential cover open, then remove the bolt holding the spider gear shaft on the carrier. After that the shaft should slide out. Then push the axle shafts in and remove C-clips. Pull out axle shafts, remove oil seals, take a heavy slide hammer and a suitable pivoting clamp and hammer the old bearings out. Now's a good time to clean the axle tubes real well.

When installing new ones put them in the freezer and install while they're still cold. You'll need to hammer new ones in. Be careful when doing this, you need something to drive the new bearings in straight and without binding. If nothing else is found, the old bearings can be used as a guide. Never hit the inner diameter of the bearing with anything. If you need more detailed instructions PM me.

[rays68]

Thanks for the info Rockhq but now not sure if its the rearend bearings. Today on my way home form work I heard a squeaking noise when I push on the gas. As soon as I let it go it stops not sure if its coming form the rearend or the tranny now. Any thoughts

[Grim Reaper]

Originally Posted by rays68

Thanks for the info Rockhq but now not sure if its the rearend bearings. Today on my way home form work I heard a squeaking noise when I push on the gas. As soon as I let it go it stops not sure if its coming form the rearend or the tranny now. Any thoughts

U-joints. $12 each.

Wheel bearing are wet lub they lube off the gearr oil in the dif. They will never squeak.

Change them joint SOON. if they fail and the shaft hits the ground the repair goes from $24 in parts to a couple hundred for a new drive shaft.

[Zilverado]

Originally Posted by Grim Reaper

U-joints. $12 each.

Wheel bearing are wet lub they lube off the gearr oil in the dif. They will never squeak.

Change them joint SOON. if they fail and the shaft hits the ground the repair goes from $24 in parts to a couple hundred for a new drive shaft.

I agree - that squeak sounds like (pardon the pun) u-joints to me. Like the Reaper said, it's a cheap, and relatively easy fix.

Just remember to block the front wheels when dropping the shaft to keep the truck from rolling away on you. Don't ask me how I know this...

Also, just in case you ever replace bearing races or seals and need to drive them in or out, never use a steel punch. Repair manuals always say to use "brass" because it is softer than the steel parts you are driving or the adjacent hubs and shafts. This way you don't foul up the hubs, races, etc. Used my brass drifts on my Pathfinder wheel bearing races the other day. Sure made the job easier and safer.

Just my $.02.

[rays68]

Ok Im going to change the ujoints in the blazer. Is there anything that I can really screw up or is it pretty simple to change out. Do I need to get a special kind of ujoint or just get a pair form autozone or kragen also does anybody have any tips before I start

[SanitysBane]

i have a tip! get a press or a really big vice. i prefer the first, but yes change thoes suckers out, my front one failed, i had to by a new drive shaft, and front joke, as well as my conversion joint for the rear, plus beat the crap out of my dual exhaust set up, and 1 of my shocks.

[RockHQ]

Zilverado made a very good point about brass/copper punches. 10/12 bolt rear wheel bearings though, don't have separate races to press in/out.

[Grim Reaper]

Originally Posted by rays68

Ok Im going to change the ujoints in the blazer. Is there anything that I can really screw up or is it pretty simple to change out. Do I need to get a special kind of ujoint or just get a pair form autozone or kragen also does anybody have any tips before I start

I have had pretty good luck withthe Brute force u-joints. They are cheap but the doo the job.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4065
Autozone will lend you that tool. It makes doing the U-Joints a breeze.

[rays68]

okay almost done with the ujoint installation but I have a couple of questions before I finish one I scrached the outside of the yoke that goes into the tranny will that be a problem and do I have to grease the inner and outter shaft when I put it back in the tranny. Two the ujoints are stiff not loose like the ones I took out is that correct.

['85Silverado]

Yes they should be stiff and not loose (worn out) like the old ones. If the scratch is deep and rubs on the seal, yes it can be a problem. Try a little emery cloth on the scratch and see if it disapears. You don't want a rough edge rubbing on the seal, it will tear it up. A little tranny fluid on the outside so the seal doesn't tear when you slide it in.