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08-16-2004, 07:13 PM | #1 |
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Need input on a 67 SWB I'm thinking of buying
Found this one recently and it looks pretty good to me, but what do I know? It has a good running 350 with a carter carb, aluminum intake and hei ignition. looks like one front fender has some rust through, as does on floor pan. should i be worried about what might be under the shiny red paint?
Thanks,
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-Guff 1969 C10 LWB, 350, 700R4, 3.73 gears |
08-16-2004, 07:17 PM | #2 |
The LuvShack Garage
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Well It Needs Floor Pans, Rad. Support, And Front Fender New / Or
Repaired With Bottom Section, Look At The Cab Corners, Rockers, And Body Support Real Good, It All Depends On Price And Your Level Of Work You Are Willing To Take On, It Appears To Be A 67 Though, And A Small Back Window W/ A Slider, How Much Do They Want
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Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T Last edited by LUV2XCLR8; 08-16-2004 at 07:19 PM. |
08-16-2004, 08:01 PM | #3 |
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With that bondo rust repair I would definatly take a magnet to the rest of the body to see what else might be covered up. Like LUV2 said it depends on how many $ and how good and how much sheet metal work you want to do.
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08-16-2004, 08:55 PM | #4 |
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I forgot to mention that I think I can get this truck for 2000, definately 2200 or less. So you guys are saying that is a bondo repair that has failed on the front fender? I'm not too concerned about having to do some sheet metal work, as long as the repairs are not too costly, are the floorpan repairs needed on this truck labor intensive? As long as the bondo repairs are limited to the typical rust areas, that;s fine as long as the cab is pretty solid. I want to drive the truck for a couple years before I start restoring it with my son. What do you guys think about it now knowing the price?
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-Guff 1969 C10 LWB, 350, 700R4, 3.73 gears |
08-16-2004, 08:58 PM | #5 |
67 is sold
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That bed looks tweaked?? Check the frame close for signs of being straightened.
The rust you posted pics of is quite common. I don't understand the pocket designed into the front of the fenders - great breeding ground for rust... |
08-16-2004, 08:58 PM | #6 |
i love summertime
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small back window slider!!! didnt know such a thing existed...i want one
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1967 shortbox stepside Chevy, 365 hp 327, th400. GLOVE BOX LIGHTS FORSALE, click link for info http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=273724 |
08-16-2004, 09:07 PM | #7 |
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Are Those Wheels Old School Slots, What Tranny Is In It, What
Rear End, Assuming It Has Trailing Arms, A/c, Power Anything, A Pic Of The Glovebox Sheet Would Help Determine Value Better.
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Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T |
08-16-2004, 09:15 PM | #8 |
just can't cover up my redneck
Join Date: May 2004
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The cab/bed alignment may be the rear body mounts also....
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08-16-2004, 09:19 PM | #9 |
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In my part of the country that might be a little high. Of course we don't use salt on the roads down here.
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"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck" |
08-16-2004, 09:58 PM | #10 |
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like Trav said, there was bondo rust repair in that fender, there is most likely more. Take a magnet to it before you even think of buying it.
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08-16-2004, 11:16 PM | #11 |
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Thanks for all the input guys. The truck is from northern arkansas originally. I have not looked at it in person yet but am seriously thinking about making the trip. I've heard that the rust in the passenger side floorpan could have been caused by a leaky heater core, is that a possibility? Also, the rust in the rad. support and front fender is usually caused by a battery leak? Maybe it's wishful thinking but, if those are the two problems that caused the rust, it's possible there isn't much more bondo on the truck, correct?
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-Guff 1969 C10 LWB, 350, 700R4, 3.73 gears |
08-17-2004, 01:44 AM | #12 |
Saving 1 truck at a time!
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Way too much money and way too much rust! That cab will need corners, supports, floors front and rear, probably all the cab mounts, kick panels and front and rear pillars. This will be lots of work unless you have done a couple of these already and have the welder and all the sheet metal tools. Good luck!
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08-17-2004, 03:17 AM | #13 |
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Welcome to the board Guff, I would suggest bringing someone that has some experiance with bodywork with you when you go to look at it. I would DEFINITLEY do the magnet treatment (as previously mentioned) on that truck, other than replacing the hood & front quarters panel placement can get pricey if you have a professional do it. VERY nice choice in truck though. Reagards Doug
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08-17-2004, 07:41 AM | #14 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
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Look close in the first picture. There's nasty hidden bondo running up the front door jamb out of sight on the picture. See the scratches under the paint?
Honestly, around here, that would be a drivetrain donor. These trucks are still common enough that dealing with that quantity of rust is really only worth it for an extremely rare truck or one with high sentimental value.
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08-17-2004, 07:49 AM | #15 |
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Magnet ettiquette !
If you pass the magnet over the body of the truck, which is sound advice,
place a tissue on the magnet first so the owner won't try to say you scratched the finish doing so. If unable to do your own work on this body it can become quite costly when the grinding starts and reveals someone else's butcher job. Most body guy's I know hate to repair what some one else screwed with. Good luck however you proceed. I found a truck that had 3 cab corners on the same side .
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08-17-2004, 08:24 AM | #16 |
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Thanks for all the input guys, guess I'll let this one go. I honestly wouldn't mind having to replace the sheetmetal since there are quality repro parts available, I just don't want to have to do a ton of work to make the cab right. The only things that I need right now are a straight frame and a decent cab on a truck that runs and drives good (preferably 67 swb). I will not be restoring the truck for another 2 or 3 years. So for $2k, I guess I should look elsewhere. These trucks are nowhere to be found in my area, and what few you can find are usually completely rusted out and barely running if at all. I've been looking for over a year, since my 2002 Sierra was stolen. If any of you know of a truck that fits the above description for $2k or less within 250 miles of south-central illinois, let me know! From Kansas City to Inidanapolis, Peoria IL to Paducah KY....still looking.
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-Guff 1969 C10 LWB, 350, 700R4, 3.73 gears |
08-17-2004, 08:41 AM | #17 |
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Is that red truck in Oklahoma? Tom Myers? Brian
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08-17-2004, 08:48 AM | #18 |
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Guff, you are in the right place to find a decent truck, or at least get good leads. Hang in there and don't get in a hurry, I've learned the hard way, I'd take a rust free body with a non running straight 6 over a rusted shell with perfect running gear any day.
Good luck, Roger
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08-17-2004, 09:46 AM | #19 | |
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Quote:
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08-17-2004, 10:09 AM | #20 |
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Yes, this is Tom Myers' truck in Oklahoma. Have either of you seen the truck in person, or want to take a look at it for me next time you're in the area?
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-Guff 1969 C10 LWB, 350, 700R4, 3.73 gears Last edited by Guff; 08-17-2004 at 10:17 AM. |
08-17-2004, 10:14 AM | #21 |
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I just recognized the place, lots of good stuff there. I bought a NOS rh fender from him. There are some trucks around with less rust for similar money. Fenders, core suppoprt etc not realy an issue, all that stuff unbolts easily, look mostly for good cab metal. Brian
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08-17-2004, 10:24 AM | #22 |
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I've bought from Tom. I'm about 5 hours away so I cant really go look for ya. I bought lots of stuff from him at one time. You do need to check it all out. I would be leary of that truck.....Just looks like it will be needing lots of metal work in 2 years. They can pretty much fall apart in 2 years driving them. I know!
Keep watching the board here there are some nice trucks that come up for sale here. |
08-17-2004, 10:43 AM | #23 |
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Thanks anyway Mudder, I guess I'm about as far away from the truck as you are, I'm 60 miles east of St. Louis On I70. I've been watching the board for over a year, I'll keep watching though.
One more question...Are you saying that if I buy a truck that needs some sheetmetal patched on the cab, I need to do it right away an not wait a couple years because it will rust away to nothing?
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-Guff 1969 C10 LWB, 350, 700R4, 3.73 gears |
08-17-2004, 11:56 AM | #24 |
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I know when I bought my truck it had a lot of bondo in it. I paid 1800. In about 3 years in was getting pretty bad. It went down hill pretty fast. Rust will only grow......I know of a longbed (68) I think near here that is for sale. Has no rust, 37,000 actual miles, 6cyl. Guy bought it then got sick. he paid 6500 for it. It had no rust.
Last edited by Mudder; 08-17-2004 at 11:59 AM. |
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