quieter cab - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jackleg · 09-04-2004, 01:03 AM

I just bought a 71 K10 w/headers and 40 series flowmasters. I planned on swapping out the 40 series for either the 50 or 70 delta flow. I also just finished replacing the weatherstripping on the door and vent windows but the cab there's still a lot of wind noise on the highway. I was wondering if dynamat and similar products really work and what else can I do to cut down on noise?

thank you

Russell · 09-04-2004, 02:51 AM

Replace all of the seals and put down some of that dynamat stuff -- I hear it works wonders for quieting stuff down...

How big of an inlet / outlet do the Flowmaster 40s have, and how much would you want for the two of them shipped up to me in Canada?

jackleg · 09-04-2004, 03:17 AM

They're center in/out w/ 2 1/2 in. pipe. I'm in between jobs right now so I'm not gonna replace them for a few weeks. If you want, I'll let you know when I get the new ones and ship'em up to you to from Kalispell, MT for $20 a piece plus shipping.

krue · 09-04-2004, 05:00 AM

Welcome to the board from South Mississippi! My cab is quieter than say a tornado, but that's about it. I think all the air rushing in thru the holes in the floor may have something to with it tho!

**Palf70Step** · 09-04-2004, 06:08 PM

Just knock the muffler off Krue and you'll never notice that wind noise again!!!

neonlarry · 09-04-2004, 07:20 PM

Dynamat (thats what I used) or something simular will certainly reduce the noise inside your cab. But it will not reduce your wind noise, in fact it will probably be more noticeable. I would check to see if all your new weatherstripping is sealing like it should. But no matter how well it seals you are still going to get a certain amount of wind noise.

Curbstone Mech · 09-04-2004, 08:12 PM

You could try checking for air gaps around your door seals by riding with a friend and having him (or her) feel around the door for leaks. Also, check to see if your wing windows fit tight against the seal. If the doors have any gap at the top half, you can bend the door frame in (with the window down)
You could also check for gaps by mixing some chalk dust into a paste, put it around the seal and the close the door- if there is a place where there is no chalk dust transferred, that could be an air gap.
If your wing window doesn't seal tight, you could use a shim, like a dime or penny between the upright and the handle to keep it tighter.

Russell · 09-04-2004, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jackleg

They're center in/out w/ 2 1/2 in. pipe. I'm in between jobs right now so I'm not gonna replace them for a few weeks. If you want, I'll let you know when I get the new ones and ship'em up to you to from Kalispell, MT for $20 a piece plus shipping.

How much do you figure shipping would be? They sound exactly like what I need

I want a set of Aerochambers, but the flows will work fine for now

thisolechevy · 09-04-2004, 10:13 PM

When I got custom interior in my '69 k-10 I put down FATMAT it works great I put 3 layers on the floor, 2 on the back wall behind the tank, 2 under the dash, d behind door panels...I think thats all :-) and it works great!!!!!!! FOR ROAD NOISE
Now for wind noise also check the drip rail if there are holes in it, it will create a lot of wind noise.

Russell · 09-05-2004, 08:04 PM

TTT

67ChevyC10Stepside · 09-05-2004, 09:25 PM

im interested in those mufflers too....how old are they?

68C15 · 09-06-2004, 08:50 AM

I dont think you will ever get rid of the wind noise due to the design of body. too many parts sticking out causing the air to mix up & cause noise. (eyebrow above windshield, "A" pillars out from door frame, "B" pillars out from door also, etc...) that is why newer cars & truck have everything flush mounted.
side note: what kind of mirror do you have?

kxmotox247 · 09-06-2004, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thisolechevy

When I got custom interior in my '69 k-10 I put down FATMAT it works great I put 3 layers on the floor, 2 on the back wall behind the tank, 2 under the dash, d behind door panels...I think thats all :-) and it works great!!!!!!! FOR ROAD NOISE
Now for wind noise also check the drip rail if there are holes in it, it will create a lot of wind noise.

Did you have any problems with it being too thick on the floor and interfering with the set mounts, gas pedal, etc??
I have some fatmat on the way. I've been worrying that the carpet won't fit right if I put too much down.

09-04-2004, 01:03 AM	#1
jackleg Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 2	quieter cab I just bought a 71 K10 w/headers and 40 series flowmasters. I planned on swapping out the 40 series for either the 50 or 70 delta flow. I also just finished replacing the weatherstripping on the door and vent windows but the cab there's still a lot of wind noise on the highway. I was wondering if dynamat and similar products really work and what else can I do to cut down on noise? thank you

09-04-2004, 02:51 AM	#2
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Replace all of the seals and put down some of that dynamat stuff -- I hear it works wonders for quieting stuff down... How big of an inlet / outlet do the Flowmaster 40s have, and how much would you want for the two of them shipped up to me in Canada? __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

09-04-2004, 05:00 AM	#4
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	Welcome to the board from South Mississippi! My cab is quieter than say a tornado, but that's about it. I think all the air rushing in thru the holes in the floor may have something to with it tho! __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

09-04-2004, 06:08 PM	#5
Palf70Step State of Confusion! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Gulfport, MS USA Posts: 46,820	Just knock the muffler off Krue and you'll never notice that wind noise again!!! __________________ Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!

09-04-2004, 07:20 PM	#6
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	Dynamat (thats what I used) or something simular will certainly reduce the noise inside your cab. But it will not reduce your wind noise, in fact it will probably be more noticeable. I would check to see if all your new weatherstripping is sealing like it should. But no matter how well it seals you are still going to get a certain amount of wind noise. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

09-04-2004, 03:17 AM	#3
jackleg Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 2	They're center in/out w/ 2 1/2 in. pipe. I'm in between jobs right now so I'm not gonna replace them for a few weeks. If you want, I'll let you know when I get the new ones and ship'em up to you to from Kalispell, MT for $20 a piece plus shipping.

09-04-2004, 08:12 PM	#7
Curbstone Mech Active Member Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Carroll County Maryland Posts: 300	You could try checking for air gaps around your door seals by riding with a friend and having him (or her) feel around the door for leaks. Also, check to see if your wing windows fit tight against the seal. If the doors have any gap at the top half, you can bend the door frame in (with the window down) You could also check for gaps by mixing some chalk dust into a paste, put it around the seal and the close the door- if there is a place where there is no chalk dust transferred, that could be an air gap. If your wing window doesn't seal tight, you could use a shim, like a dime or penny between the upright and the handle to keep it tighter. __________________ 68 short fleet 383 stroker, 700r4 373:1 posi 72 GMC 3/4 ton- weekly driver 700r4 351;1 posi Last edited by Curbstone Mech; 09-04-2004 at 08:15 PM.

09-04-2004, 10:13 PM	#9
thisolechevy Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Gainesville, Fl Posts: 382	When I got custom interior in my '69 k-10 I put down FATMAT it works great I put 3 layers on the floor, 2 on the back wall behind the tank, 2 under the dash, d behind door panels...I think thats all :-) and it works great!!!!!!! FOR ROAD NOISE Now for wind noise also check the drip rail if there are holes in it, it will create a lot of wind noise. __________________ Man I need another 67-72!!!

09-05-2004, 08:04 PM	#10
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	TTT __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

09-05-2004, 09:25 PM	#11
67ChevyC10Stepside Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Butler PA Posts: 3,034	im interested in those mufflers too....how old are they? __________________ 67 c-10, 400 SB, TH350, 4.10 gears, Blazer tank,camaro tach, sidemarker fuel fill (soon) WTB: stepside parts, 67 front end parts, 67 small window cab. posi for 3.73 or 4.10 for 12 bolt and 10 bolt.

09-06-2004, 08:50 AM	#12
68C15 blood type; Retumbo Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: next to my reloading bench Posts: 10,269	I dont think you will ever get rid of the wind noise due to the design of body. too many parts sticking out causing the air to mix up & cause noise. (eyebrow above windshield, "A" pillars out from door frame, "B" pillars out from door also, etc...) that is why newer cars & truck have everything flush mounted. side note: what kind of mirror do you have? __________________ Man rule #77...if you own a 67 stepside with a caddy 472 you will never be in danger of loosing you man card



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