No power to fuel tank sending unit - What - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

kxmotox247 · 09-07-2004, 08:26 PM

does this mean? Where should I check next? I can't get any voltage out of the fuse block tab.
I'm not good with wiring but I'm definately trying to learn.
Thanks!

Bill72BB · 09-07-2004, 08:28 PM

Turn the key on ,check the fuse .

kxmotox247 · 09-07-2004, 10:37 PM

There is a fuse for this in the fuse panel? I don't see one. It has a single wire plug that simple fits in the receptacle. Is the fuse adjacent to where you plug this in?

*rage'nrat638* · 09-07-2004, 10:45 PM

well i am not laying in my truck floor looking....at the fuse box....
but a little story....

my radio kept turning on and off.....
come to find out the little tab's that hold the fuse's in place were rusted not making good contact......

took all the fuse's out and scraped them all...not a lot of fun....but this cured my problem......

just a easy to do thought......

your pal mark....the RAGENRAT638

kxmotox247 · 09-08-2004, 07:54 AM

I'll have to try it and see. There is no fuse though. Just a single tab that the wire clips to. I'll clean it tonight and see what happens. It's worth a try. I have a feeling that the gauge is stuck.

Red68 · 09-08-2004, 09:23 PM

I just rewired my 68 and it does not have a seperate fuse, the power for the sending unit starts with a wire coming directly from the fuse block to the gauge then from the gauge back to the tab on the fuse block you are seeing. The voltage at the tab for the fuse block is less than 12 volts so with a test light it will be dim. When you unplug you sending unit does the gauge go way past full? If so then you gauge is working correctly. Have you checked your wiring to you sending unit? If that is ok try looking at the back of your dash to see if your printed circuit is good. Look for breaks in the copper strips leading to the gauge. Hope this helps.

kxmotox247 · 09-09-2004, 08:14 AM

When I unplug the sending unit, the gauge does nothing. In fact, I can't get a test light to light at all in the fuse block where the sending usnit wire plugs in to. I think the gauge is frozen or like you suggested...the printed circuit is damaged.
I just ordered a tach conversion from GMC Pauls. It comes with a new printed circuit. I also ordered a new fuel gauge and a temp gauge. Once I plug all this stuff in, I'm hoping my problem goes away.
I didn't think there was a fuse for it. I looked all over and didn't see one. There won't be anything to replace when I get done so it better work!
Thnaks for the tips. Hopefully I haven't complicated things by trying to install a tach at the same time. I heard they are easy to put in.

bluec10 · 09-11-2004, 08:17 PM

The wires from the fuse panel to the sending unit run along the kick panel and under the chrome door sill. Those wires take a beating. If the problem isn't in the fuse panel, take off your sill plate and make sure that the wires are in good condition.

I had the same problem - gunk under the sill plate had rubbed the insulation off the wires and rusted them.

kxmotox247 · 09-11-2004, 08:50 PM

I don't know whether to be thankful...or be scared. My old printed circuit was in horible shape. Replaced it but still had power issues. So I decided to take off the fuse panel to make sure wires weren't damaged feeding into it. I didn't see anything unusual. I jiggled it around and put the panel back in place and all of a sudden, the fuel gage tab in the panel had juice. I plugged in the lead for the fuel sender and the gage worked!
Thanks for everyone's help. What a pain in the rump. I wish I knew what fixed it so if it happens again I could easily figure it out. Thanks!

chickenwing · 09-12-2004, 02:41 AM

I just happen to have my old harness out of my 72 so I can answer the sending unit power feed question. The sending unit power from the fuse block comes from pin 4 of your dash connector, wich is fed from pin 3 of your dash connector through your printed circuit board, wich is fed through the cluster feed fuse. Corrosion is a troublesome thing. I think ragin rat has it right with corrosion on the cluster feed fuse terminals.
Rich

Kleantouch · 09-12-2004, 09:30 AM

Clean electrical connections and GOOD GROUNDS are our friends. Sounds lie you jiggled the clean back into your fuel guage- I'd agree with the earlier posts and "at least" pull the fuses and run some sandpaper thru the holders to avoid problems- once you get your tach, - from GMCPauls- same place I got mine from- great people- gmcpauls- only 2 wires to hook it up- on from disty and on +12vdc- just remember it gets it's ground from the dash, so make sure the black wire from your instrument cluster plug is properly grounded.
Good luck.

09-07-2004, 08:26 PM	#1
kxmotox247 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Champaign, IL Posts: 1,397	No power to fuel tank sending unit - What does this mean? Where should I check next? I can't get any voltage out of the fuse block tab. I'm not good with wiring but I'm definately trying to learn. Thanks! __________________ Baby Blue's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=652776 Project 68's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...17#post8442117 www.stonecolumnclassics.com Email: Josh@stonecolumnclassics.com

09-07-2004, 08:28 PM	#2
Bill72BB Thats the Hillbilly way Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Torrance,Ca Posts: 5,979	Turn the key on ,check the fuse . __________________ BILL Torrance Calif 90504 Member DUF Club Member Old Farts Club 72 3/4ton Custom Camper BB402/400 trans Dynomax Cerama-coat headers , Hei distributor ,Edelbrock 1411 air,ps,pb,leafsprings ,98 chevy 60/40 seat,S10 shoulder belts tilt,3.54 Dana 60 rear. 16" Eagle wheels with LT265/75 16 tires,Gaylord Lid,H4 headlights with 100W relay conversion. " If I knew I was going to live this long I would have taken better care of myself " Marriage changes passion...suddenly you're in bed with a relative. A GUY'S PRAYER.... Lord, I pray for a nympho with huge boobs who owns a liquor store and likes to fish and hunt and has a Harley .Amen ,

09-07-2004, 10:37 PM	#3
kxmotox247 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Champaign, IL Posts: 1,397	There is a fuse for this in the fuse panel? I don't see one. It has a single wire plug that simple fits in the receptacle. Is the fuse adjacent to where you plug this in? __________________ Baby Blue's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=652776 Project 68's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...17#post8442117 www.stonecolumnclassics.com Email: Josh@stonecolumnclassics.com

09-08-2004, 07:54 AM	#5
kxmotox247 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Champaign, IL Posts: 1,397	I'll have to try it and see. There is no fuse though. Just a single tab that the wire clips to. I'll clean it tonight and see what happens. It's worth a try. I have a feeling that the gauge is stuck. __________________ Baby Blue's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=652776 Project 68's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...17#post8442117 www.stonecolumnclassics.com Email: Josh@stonecolumnclassics.com

09-08-2004, 09:23 PM	#6
Red68 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Rhome, TX Posts: 209	I just rewired my 68 and it does not have a seperate fuse, the power for the sending unit starts with a wire coming directly from the fuse block to the gauge then from the gauge back to the tab on the fuse block you are seeing. The voltage at the tab for the fuse block is less than 12 volts so with a test light it will be dim. When you unplug you sending unit does the gauge go way past full? If so then you gauge is working correctly. Have you checked your wiring to you sending unit? If that is ok try looking at the back of your dash to see if your printed circuit is good. Look for breaks in the copper strips leading to the gauge. Hope this helps. __________________ 1968 C10 LWB 327 bored 40 over, RHS heads, KB pistons, Eagle rods, Edlebrock carb & intake 1968 C10 flatbed 307 w/ 4 spd manual (dads old ride) 1936 1/2 tn pickup, 400sb 350 turbo (partially restored) 1949 1/2 tn, needs complete restore (future project) 1969 Chevy impala 4 dr no post (wifes future car) 2010 GMC Serria 4x4 crew, leveling kit Last edited by Red68; 09-08-2004 at 09:24 PM. Reason: wording

09-07-2004, 10:45 PM	#4
rage'nrat638 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: THE FALL GUY CHICAGO IL Posts: 5,883	well i am not laying in my truck floor looking....at the fuse box.... but a little story.... my radio kept turning on and off..... come to find out the little tab's that hold the fuse's in place were rusted not making good contact...... took all the fuse's out and scraped them all...not a lot of fun....but this cured my problem...... just a easy to do thought...... your pal mark....the RAGENRAT638

09-09-2004, 08:14 AM	#7
kxmotox247 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Champaign, IL Posts: 1,397	When I unplug the sending unit, the gauge does nothing. In fact, I can't get a test light to light at all in the fuse block where the sending usnit wire plugs in to. I think the gauge is frozen or like you suggested...the printed circuit is damaged. I just ordered a tach conversion from GMC Pauls. It comes with a new printed circuit. I also ordered a new fuel gauge and a temp gauge. Once I plug all this stuff in, I'm hoping my problem goes away. I didn't think there was a fuse for it. I looked all over and didn't see one. There won't be anything to replace when I get done so it better work! Thnaks for the tips. Hopefully I haven't complicated things by trying to install a tach at the same time. I heard they are easy to put in. __________________ Baby Blue's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=652776 Project 68's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...17#post8442117 www.stonecolumnclassics.com Email: Josh@stonecolumnclassics.com

09-11-2004, 08:17 PM	#8
bluec10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 663	The wires from the fuse panel to the sending unit run along the kick panel and under the chrome door sill. Those wires take a beating. If the problem isn't in the fuse panel, take off your sill plate and make sure that the wires are in good condition. I had the same problem - gunk under the sill plate had rubbed the insulation off the wires and rusted them. __________________ Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said.

09-11-2004, 08:50 PM	#9
kxmotox247 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Champaign, IL Posts: 1,397	I don't know whether to be thankful...or be scared. My old printed circuit was in horible shape. Replaced it but still had power issues. So I decided to take off the fuse panel to make sure wires weren't damaged feeding into it. I didn't see anything unusual. I jiggled it around and put the panel back in place and all of a sudden, the fuel gage tab in the panel had juice. I plugged in the lead for the fuel sender and the gage worked! Thanks for everyone's help. What a pain in the rump. I wish I knew what fixed it so if it happens again I could easily figure it out. Thanks! __________________ Baby Blue's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=652776 Project 68's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...17#post8442117 www.stonecolumnclassics.com Email: Josh@stonecolumnclassics.com

09-12-2004, 02:41 AM	#10
chickenwing Lovin' Life in Miss.! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, Mississippi Posts: 1,937	I just happen to have my old harness out of my 72 so I can answer the sending unit power feed question. The sending unit power from the fuse block comes from pin 4 of your dash connector, wich is fed from pin 3 of your dash connector through your printed circuit board, wich is fed through the cluster feed fuse. Corrosion is a troublesome thing. I think ragin rat has it right with corrosion on the cluster feed fuse terminals. Rich __________________ The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!!

09-12-2004, 09:30 AM	#11
Kleantouch Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Lake Charles LA Posts: 138	Clean electrical connections and GOOD GROUNDS are our friends. Sounds lie you jiggled the clean back into your fuel guage- I'd agree with the earlier posts and "at least" pull the fuses and run some sandpaper thru the holders to avoid problems- once you get your tach, - from GMCPauls- same place I got mine from- great people- gmcpauls- only 2 wires to hook it up- on from disty and on +12vdc- just remember it gets it's ground from the dash, so make sure the black wire from your instrument cluster plug is properly grounded. Good luck.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.