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Old 09-16-2004, 02:03 AM   #1
poff
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Stock temp. sending unit in a Vortec engine

As many know the new Vortec heads have a 3/8" NPT hole for the temp. sending unit, stock for my '70 at least is 1/2" NPT. Well for lack of a better solution, I ended up putting my temp. sending unit in the intake. This interfered with my thermostat housing. I found a solution if anyone has the same problem. A company called PRC or Performance Rod and Custom makes a 1" thermostat housing spacer. I think the real purpose is a bypass for aluminum heads or something. It has two 3/8" NPT holes in it, I just pluged them and put them faceing back. Their # is 812-997-5905.
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Old 09-16-2004, 07:33 AM   #2
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or you could have tapped the head for 1/2 NPT & kept the sender where it is more accurate. on the norm there is about 10* diff. between the head & intake. I recommend using your new spacer to plumb some lines from back of intake to bottom of therm.
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Old 09-16-2004, 10:18 AM   #3
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I talked to several different people about it and came to the same conclusion about accuracy. I considered drilling out the head but I did not want mess with my brand spankin' new engine. Especially didn't want to chance voiding the warranty. Never really had cooling problems before, plus the radiator is huge. I do not recall seeing any provisions for coolant hoses on the rear of the intake.
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Old 09-16-2004, 11:01 AM   #4
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There was a post about this before. What you need is a temp sender for a early 70's volvo. It is the right size and calibrated for the stock guage. Sorry I don't have a p/n.
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Old 09-16-2004, 12:21 PM   #5
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I had the same problem on my 350, but lucked out and found an OEM t-stat housing (from an 80s or 90s engine, I think). The hose neck on the OEM housing sits higher and angles upward more than on aftermarket chrome housings. The Performer EPS manifold t-stat mounting pad is also higher relative to the 1/2" pipe port, compared to something like a regular Performer manifold.

I also have a mechanical gauge connected to the cylinder head just to test and calibrate my OEM gauge (no numbers). So even if the head temp is 10 degrees higher, it doesn't matter with an OEM gauge.

In fact, my 55 Chevy has gauges in both the head and manifold ports, and there is a little difference at idle, but virtually none at highway speeds. Heat rises, does it not?
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Old 09-16-2004, 01:52 PM   #6
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Certainly worth investigation. Thanks.
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Old 09-16-2004, 02:29 PM   #7
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Poff,

Someone posted a brand & p/n of a sending unit that worked. I know I printed it off & put it in my file of 67-72 truck tips. Yuo might try a search or wait a little longer and see if someone else posts what you need. Sorry I don't have the info at work here or I would post it.
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Old 09-16-2004, 03:38 PM   #8
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Woody --- If you could find the brand/PN somewhere Me and lots of others would be very greatful. Have a new crate motor with vortec heads and have a patch job now --- a sender that fits the 5/8ths threads would be fantastic. Thanks, Noel
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Old 09-16-2004, 06:30 PM   #9
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FWIW,
I tried the Volvo sender and it didn't work for me. The Volvo sender has straight threads and a gasket - like a spark plug. The head is a tapered pipe thread. I had visions of stripped aluminum threads and leaking coolant.

I like the photo of the stock sender in the intake. It would never work with my stock outlet, but you give me hope that I might find an outlet that would.

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Old 09-17-2004, 02:40 AM   #10
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Will a 1/2" x 3/8" reducer bushing work?
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Old 09-17-2004, 09:19 AM   #11
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I looked at them, they stuck out too far and did not have enough clearance for coolant flow. I was afraid I would get more exhaust heat than coolant temp.
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Old 09-17-2004, 11:45 AM   #12
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Ok Guys, I'll try to look it up this evening after I get home.
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Old 09-17-2004, 05:46 PM   #13
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I ran into the same problem. I just used a thermostat housing from a 67 V8 and upper radiator hose and mounted the original sender in the intake.
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