How to Cargo light?

[lamar]

Just ordered and got my cargo light and switch. Do I just drill a whole big enough for the wire and then just mount? Also where does the switch belong?

[Ironhorse]

My '71 4x4 originally did not have a cargo light but wasn't hard to install. After using the weather seal to locate the correct cab center position I marked out a small rectangular hole, drilled a pilot hole (careful here inner cab skin is close to outer skin) and cut it using a small hack saw blade. Run the wires up inside the driver's side door pillar and under the step plates. Hooked it into the fuse box for power with ignition on and used a lighted when on toggle switch under the dash. The original in-line switch mounts centered just under the inside dome lamp lens if I recall correctly. Just a quick and dirty explination but not really a hard to do install. Good luck with it. Nice item to have.

[WRMZ71]

The switch goes on the inside right underneath the dome light. That is where it comes from the factory at least. As far as the light on the back you will need to cut a hole for the cargo light and drill 2 small holes for the screws that secure it to the cab. You shouldn't have to drill any seperate hole for wires as they will go up the same place that the dome light wires go.

[lamar]

Thanks guys, sounds easy enough. Just wanted to double check before I screwed up my cab. So I will have to actually cut a hole, I was hoping the rubber would house all of the light and just need a hole big enough for the wires.

[Longhorn Man]

Also, you can't just mount it to the metal, you have to have the rubber inserts...at least, if you hook it upas stock.
In a stock set up, the positive wire is always hot, and the ground side is switched. The power comes from the dome light, and then to the switch, then out to the lamp. This way, if the switch was in the on position, the cargo would work with the door or the head lamp switch.

[1972C10]

I just Added the holes for a cargo light for my 85 Does it have to be mounted with the rubber you think? I looked it over and it apears to be self contained two wires going in

I had planned on putting it in with self tapping screws since i couldnt find a scientific way to measure and mark the holes for the grommets with the screwhole in them.

But i had wondered if the housing being grounded would matter i assumed the grommets were there stock to allow movment. That or they had a lack of High Tech self tapping screws

[Longhorn Man]

i have no idea on the 73 & up...but it does still work off the ground wire...I would imagine it will matter.

[1972C10]

It has two wires One Is Constant Hot And the other is the switched ground that applys when the door is open or the knob is twisted to the left all the way.

I assume it will be fine without the grommets but i do have them just in case. I figure if the self tapping screws wont work i can remove them and drill 3/8 holes for the use of the grommets.

[Longhorn Man]

I know on the 69 - 72 ones, if you mount directly with outthe grommets, the light will come on even when it isn't suposed to, and the dome light will come on too.