10-04-2004, 11:42 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 80
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1963
I am a first time poster. Just getting started restoring a 1963 fleetside shortbox. Bought a completely rusted out 1972 longbox that runs good and the idea is to get the front end, rear end, V8, 350 turbo, power brakes and power steering out of the 72. Just got the frame of the 63 stripped down to find that the last crossmember at the rear of the frame is not "square." It is riveted in like it is stock, but there is about an inch difference. This is back where the sway control arm mounts to the frame from the rear end. Can anyone tell me if this is normal?
Also, since the frame seems to have a bit of other trash welded onto it and a few extra holes, I have been thinking of using the 72 frame. It looks like I would just have to cut the cab mounts off the 63 frame and put them on the 72. Is this right? Then it looks like I would have to cut the 72 frame behind the cab as well as at the rear to make the longbed into a shortbed. Is this more trouble than sticking with the 63 frame? I am also going to need the trans mount off the 72. The 63 has coils in the rear and the 72 has leafs. Is one better than the other? Lots of questions but could use some advice before I go too far. Thanks. |
10-04-2004, 09:58 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cranston, RI
Posts: 162
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Use the 63
I am also doing a 63 restoration shortfleet. The cross member you are referring to is OK. I had that same question with mine, but after looking at a few I realized it was made that way. I am doing a conversion to automatic, and it is very easy.you will need the automatic cross member from a later model truck, Also you need to remove the tranny cross member and the beel housing cross member from the 63 for everything to work. All you will have to do then is get the engine mounted and bolt the tranny to it and put the mount under the tail of the tranny, center it with a tape measure then you can tack it. I find a light tack weld is good to keep things in line if you have other things to do that require more work. So next drill the holes and put the bolts in. So that's it in a nutshell. If you use a later model frame you can get away with it, but if you donr redo the vin numbers on the chassis, it could pose a problem (maybe, but chances are it wont. I have some pictures of how mine is going if you would like to see them. I am doing disc w/ dropped spindles on front also.
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10-05-2004, 01:56 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 80
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Thanks
Thanks Raphyel, that's good news about the cross member. I will stick with the 63 frame after filling a few holes and cleaning it up a bit. It would be great to see your pictures.
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10-06-2004, 02:02 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cranston, RI
Posts: 162
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some pics of my progress
here are a few pics of my progress thry are a little old as I will be ready to put the cab back on the frame in a few weeks. DAMN BODYWORK!!!!
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