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10-07-2004, 11:18 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Williston, North Dakota
Posts: 469
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Powdercoating Chassis...
I don't know if this is the right board to post on, if not, please lead me to the right board...
Everywhere I have seen people completely restoring cars, I see that they ussually powdercoat the frame...how important is this? I was planning on having it done. I got a price quote from a powdercoating shop from $800-$1200 depending on color, and how much sandblasting time it will take...the price includes sandblasting and powdercoating the frame and any other pieces I brought in, like front suspension parts...etc. A few people are saying that it is paying an "x" amount of dollars to protect your frame...just curious if it is worth the extra money and time to disassemble to get this step done? Lenny
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Always looking for a 2wd blazer |
10-07-2004, 12:26 PM | #2 |
67 is sold
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,733
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The prep should be the same for powdercoating or painting a frame I would think.
If you have the $$, go powdercoat. If not, painting can work great provided the prep work is done correctly and you use the right product. |
10-07-2004, 03:18 PM | #3 |
Too Many Clubs Club
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Kilgore, Texas
Posts: 443
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Check around on prices. I had my frame, trailing arms, front A-arms, sway bars, lots of brackets, and tons of other small parts sandblasted and coated for around $450.
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How I installed my air bags... |
10-07-2004, 10:49 PM | #4 |
Under construction!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NorCal
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I had my entire chassis, minus the rear-end housing and 4-link, PC'ed for roughly $2,000. The frame is black and all bolt-on's are done in Sparkle Silver and clear coated.
If you have the money or are patient enough to save up like me, I would recommend it. The results will be well worth it, especially when everything comes together.
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2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. *Sold* |
10-07-2004, 11:41 PM | #5 |
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Thanks guys...
that is what I thought... I didn't even think about doing different colors though... I was thinking of doing Yellow, but they didn't have any bright yellows...they were all kind of dull. I want the finished product(the color of the whole blazer) to be Canary Yellow, with black goodies....but I wanted the frame to match...but I didn't even think about doing different colors like that... thanks
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Always looking for a 2wd blazer |
10-11-2004, 08:11 PM | #6 |
MI '69
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 314
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how far should i take the stuff on the frame appart before taking it in to be blasted and PC'd? Obviously all the suspension parts but how bout cross members and drive pillar or other mounts such as cab and bed....??
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1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer |
10-11-2004, 08:19 PM | #7 |
MI '69
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Michigan
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oops, one more thing....
im assuming that PC'd black is the cheapest color.... am i correct?
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1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer |
10-11-2004, 09:24 PM | #8 |
Project92 SWB stepside
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 4,792
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Colors did not matter where I had mine done. The price was $450 for just the frame and the members. Also every nut and bolt that will come out needs to be taken off.
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92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448 |
10-11-2004, 09:33 PM | #9 |
Under construction!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NorCal
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Black is the most affordable color. Other colors can be a 3-step process.....Two layers of PC and one of clear coat. Anything and everything that can be un-bolted from the frame needs to be removed, as phantom dually said.
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2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. *Sold* |
10-11-2004, 09:50 PM | #10 |
MI '69
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Michigan
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should i remove the parts that are riveted to the frame also? if so, will bolting them back on when finished be sufficient or should i get the re-riveted?
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1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer |
10-11-2004, 10:20 PM | #11 |
Senior Member
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Don't remove rivits unless you need to replace something or remove something. the rivets are what make your frame strong. i'll repeat dont remove them unless you have too.
as far as powder coating remove everything that is bolted on. you will end up with a better looking frame and will give you a chance to replace the rusted bolts with new. my frame is going to cost me $450 to powder coat and the guy offered to have it sand blasted for another $200. i figure i'll let him have it blasted that way he is responsable for any rust that may appear later on. hope this helps, ondrew |
10-12-2004, 08:28 AM | #12 | |
67 is sold
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 6,733
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Quote:
As has been stated, unbolt everything you can |
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10-13-2004, 01:41 PM | #13 |
MI '69
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 314
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great, i'll get right on it now that i know for sure what im trying to do!
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1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer |
10-15-2004, 06:33 PM | #14 | |
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Location: Lake Placid, Florida
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Quote:
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10-15-2004, 09:27 PM | #15 |
MI '69
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Michigan
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am i the only one who can't seet he pictures baggedc10 posted? cuz im gettin the little boxes with red x's in them...... just wondering.
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1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer |
10-15-2004, 09:34 PM | #16 |
Under construction!
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The pictures should appear for you now.
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2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. *Sold* |
10-15-2004, 09:37 PM | #17 |
MI '69
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Michigan
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hm.... well things are appearing but i highly doubt they are the intended images.....
some logo about how i can't see them b/c im outside of ImageStation.com....
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1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer |
10-15-2004, 09:39 PM | #18 |
Under construction!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NorCal
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Try this link.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=3014845093 BTW, enlarge the pictures to see how the chassis actually looks.
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2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. *Sold* Last edited by BaggedC10; 10-15-2004 at 09:41 PM. |
10-15-2004, 09:47 PM | #19 |
MI '69
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 314
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ahhh, gotta love technology!
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1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer |
10-15-2004, 09:58 PM | #20 |
MI '69
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 314
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nice pictures, what are those parts towards the back? they don't seem like anything ive got on mine.....
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1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer |
10-15-2004, 11:17 PM | #21 |
17's too small
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 335
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baggedc10-in picture 3 there is a rod or something going into your spring pocket. what is that?
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68 C10 SWB SS 5 lug power disc brake conversion 2.5 inch drop spindles van tilt column Air Ride Technologies Cool Ride air bag kits Performance Online tubular upper control arms and shock relocator kits ECE super track panhard bar 1 piece side windows |
10-15-2004, 11:24 PM | #22 |
17's too small
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 335
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baggedC10-air line i think now that i stare at it. too bad you had to make 2 holes. the frame still looks great. after i cut my holes i took a piece of small vacume hose and sliced it down the middle then glued it around the perimeter of my holes. it looks just like a grommet, but it conforms to add shapes. plus it keeps the lines from rubbing on sharp metal.
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68 C10 SWB SS 5 lug power disc brake conversion 2.5 inch drop spindles van tilt column Air Ride Technologies Cool Ride air bag kits Performance Online tubular upper control arms and shock relocator kits ECE super track panhard bar 1 piece side windows |
10-15-2004, 11:28 PM | #23 |
MI '69
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 314
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bagged - where did u purchase ur air system from?
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1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer |
10-16-2004, 03:37 AM | #24 | |
Under construction!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NorCal
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Quote:
I drilled the first hole too high in the X-member. Oh well, live and learn right? I sanded the openings smooth and as you can see, installed seeth(sp?) to protect the air line from header heat and general wear. cysko9---My truck has a custom backhalf. The front kit is Air Ride Technologies' Cool-Ride kit and out back I have their polished stainless steel parallel 4-link. I have their ARC4800 BIGRed Max compressor system to adjust the ride height. I'll have updated pictures posted soon.
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2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. *Sold* |
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10-16-2004, 11:42 AM | #25 |
MI '69
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 314
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thanks, it looks great.
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1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer |
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