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Old 10-20-2004, 09:43 AM   #1
bluec10
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Wood Bed vs. Metal Bed

Solver put me up to starting this thread…good idea. What do you like better, a metal floor bed or a wood floor bed?

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Old 10-20-2004, 10:03 AM   #2
djracer
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I'd prefer wood for a show truck or metal for a work truck!
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Old 10-20-2004, 10:10 AM   #3
Solver
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Since I got you started I'll jump in
I have wood in most of my trucks
I prefer it to metal because it can be easily replaced with new.
Here in Iowa the metal floors don''t last long and I think the wood is better looking.
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Old 10-20-2004, 10:29 AM   #4
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What they said...................
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Old 10-20-2004, 10:35 AM   #5
Bamm
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Wood.....


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Old 10-20-2004, 10:52 AM   #6
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Too bad to beat up a nice wood bed if you really have to work your truck!
What the DJ said all the way.
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Old 10-20-2004, 11:32 AM   #7
Hook'em
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I agree. Wood for show, metal for work. I have a metal bed with a spray in liner, but it is not a show truck.
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Old 10-20-2004, 01:02 PM   #8
Canadian694x4
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I have yet to build a show truck but I like my Steel bed...but for a showy type truck wood should prolly be used...only exception being your doing a 100% resto and you want to keep a steel bed that came with your truck I suppose...
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Old 10-20-2004, 03:45 PM   #9
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wood all the way..
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Old 10-20-2004, 03:51 PM   #10
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Wood to show, metal to go.
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Old 10-20-2004, 04:16 PM   #11
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Wood for work or play. Had a wood bed in a '66 1/2 ton once. Hauled fire wood, rubish, gravel, you name it, never had a complaint. Wood won't sag between the bed cross supports like steel does after time.

When money allows I'll be switching my 68 GMC to wood.
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Old 10-20-2004, 08:00 PM   #12
Harold Shepard
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I have a wood floor in my 71 Super, but I would have rather had the steel. But who can find a steel floor that will not take endless hours to straighten? Around here they don't exist, but when I see a truck with a straight steel floor, as wierd as this may seem, I get all excited, because everyone who shows it seems goes with the wood and there is only so much you can do with oak or ash or pine or what ever....
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Old 10-20-2004, 08:06 PM   #13
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Wood, you have to baby metal too much.
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Old 10-20-2004, 08:47 PM   #14
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Wood. With all the stuff I've done with my rotted wood bed, the metal bed would have fallen through by now. Besides, if you want hold down straps, drill some holes and put a couple eye screws with backing nuts on it. Perfect. I'd take wood for both. Also, wood is cheap, and when it rots, replace it. When metal rots, good luck finding a new floor.
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Old 10-20-2004, 08:59 PM   #15
c-1072
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Converting steel to wood

has anyone changed a bed from steel to wood ? i want to do my short bed but i am not sure if its doable and fairly cost affective . I know the front panel is different but not sure what else .
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Old 10-20-2004, 09:00 PM   #16
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I have 2 with wood and 4 with steel, I seem to prefer steel as long as there strait.and since we're on the subject of steel beds ,I just purchased one more truck ,I'll post pics next week when I get it home. it's a 67
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Old 10-20-2004, 09:11 PM   #17
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Wood both ways, A nice oak for show and PT for work nothing slips around, when you bang the wood to much or nail into it to much just bolt in new PT and go.
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Old 10-20-2004, 09:34 PM   #18
Dean23
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i like the looks of a wood bed they look great.When it comes time to do the floor on my 68 resto. IM going to go with a nice sheet of brushed aluminum
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Old 10-20-2004, 09:52 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c-1072
has anyone changed a bed from steel to wood ? i want to do my short bed but i am not sure if its doable and fairly cost affective . I know the front panel is different but not sure what else .
i was told that the front are different and the back are dirrerent, but the bed sides and wheel wells where the same. you would need the cross supports for the wood too
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Old 10-20-2004, 10:13 PM   #20
Harold Shepard
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Mine was originally a steel floor. The swap is easy enough but you have to change headgates $150, crossmembers $30 or so each x 5 and bed bolts, strips and wood. It is as stated easy and very do-able I used a MAR-k kit with red oak but I think I would use Bruce Horkey kit next time. The MAR-K kit was good but I think Horkey does a good job putting his stuff together plus he is a nice guy. Just my .01 worth
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Old 10-20-2004, 10:22 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harold Shepard
Mine was originally a steel floor. The swap is easy enough but you have to change headgates $150, crossmembers $30 or so each x 5 and bed bolts, strips and wood. It is as stated easy and very do-able I used a MAR-k kit with red oak but I think I would use Bruce Horkey kit next time. The MAR-K kit was good but I think Horkey does a good job putting his stuff together plus he is a nice guy. Just my .01 worth

what is a headgate ? also do you have web sites for the kits your talking about?

thanks,
ondrew
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Old 10-20-2004, 10:42 PM   #22
djracer
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All 4 of mine are steel but I'd like a nice wood one!
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My Pass Time Show http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p...Chapter1-0.mp4

So Far my best Times are:

Motor only:
6.44 1/8 @ 104.13
10.39 1/4 @ 125.83

Nitrous Times:
5.785 1/8 @ 118.65 with a 1.336 60ft
9.168 1/4 @ 142.58 with a 250 shot dead out of the hole!
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Old 10-20-2004, 11:00 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roj2323
what is a headgate ? also do you have web sites for the kits your talking about?

thanks,
ondrew
www.mar-k.com

By headgate,he means the front panel. You can replace it if it is beat up, or there is an angled strip that you can install to your existing front panel.

Besides the wood and strips, you need a new rear cross sill, a reinforcing strip, and cross sills (3 for SWB, 5 for LWB). Sides and wheel tubs are the same.

Oh yeah, my 68 LWB in my avatar pic will be a SWB Yellow Pine wood floor when completed.
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Old 10-20-2004, 11:29 PM   #24
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wood it is easier to repair and looks better
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Old 10-21-2004, 12:06 AM   #25
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Werent some of the people on here replacing their rusted steel beds with aluminum diamond plate? Thats somthing I would like to see pics of if anyone has done it.
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