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10-20-2004, 07:08 PM | #1 |
Garage Queen Material
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pictures of my gears/differencial
i cant tell if something is wrong, but the clunking is for sure coming from the rear end.
i dont like the looks of that pin in the differencial though.... |
10-20-2004, 08:26 PM | #2 |
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holy big a$$ picture batman. I'm not sure if that is your noise or not, but something doenst look right to me.
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10-20-2004, 08:27 PM | #3 |
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Looks like the pinion shaft (pin) has been doing some weird stuff. That thing is butchered up for sure. I also see a broken tooth on a spider gear. Is that a gash in the pin I see too?
Take out the pinion shaft bolt and see if it's broken. Looks to me like it might be and it's letting the shaft move back and forth. It's probably hitting on pinion gear. Do you have any broken teeth on the pinion gear? Yep, it's time for some new gears and posi.
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10-20-2004, 08:38 PM | #4 |
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dig around the bottom with a magnet, see if you retrieve any foreign objects out of the case.
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10-20-2004, 09:00 PM | #5 |
huh?
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Ouch..... I see a broken tooth as well, and I think I see a gash in the pin too. Something has gone out of whack for sure, I'm not sure how many miles you'll have left in that beast. Now's a good time to switch to a posi
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10-20-2004, 09:15 PM | #6 |
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By the looks of the pictures showing the end of the cross shaft, it has caused the hole in the carrier to become oblonged. If you look at the picture showing the spiders and side gears, you can see marks on the pin from it spinning between the axles (look in the middle of the spiders). If you look really close you can see that the cross shaft is currently 90 degrees from where it should be (two skuff marks from where the axles have been ridding for many years) This photo also shows the cross shaft slid down when you rotated the carrier for the picture.
Time for you to get the Posi unit you have been talking about, that carrier is Junk!! Last edited by NeCrOmAnCeR; 10-20-2004 at 09:27 PM. |
10-20-2004, 10:22 PM | #7 |
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Lots of good advice so far, and I also see some pinion marks on the case, it must be wandering where it doesn't belong too. I'd say it's time for a major overhaul.
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10-20-2004, 11:36 PM | #8 |
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yeah, the retaining bolt that holds it in place broke.
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10-20-2004, 11:44 PM | #9 |
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stick a fork in it, its done.
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10-20-2004, 11:46 PM | #10 |
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Just worn smooth out .. Ive seen people have similar problems and just weld the cross pin to the carrier.. Not a very servicable fix but would get you by that pin has been falling down and hittin the case i imagine.
What series carrier is that>? I may have one |
10-20-2004, 11:53 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
no way another 10 bolt is going under there. i'm gonna try to find a 12bolt out of a truck like ours so that it will bolt up smoothly, or possibly a 9" |
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10-20-2004, 11:57 PM | #12 |
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maybe now you can finally get rid of that dinky ol' 10 bolts and step up to a 12
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10-20-2004, 11:59 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
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10-21-2004, 01:06 AM | #14 |
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If you get a 12-bolt, be sure you get a 3/4" longer drive shaft to go with it.
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10-21-2004, 06:56 PM | #15 |
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Ive got a pair of ford 9"s If you need one.
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10-21-2004, 07:12 PM | #16 |
paper or plastic?
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I've got 3 12 bolts rears if you need one and I've got a ford 9" with disk ready to bolt in a 73-87 truck
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10-21-2004, 10:19 PM | #17 |
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I bolted a 12 bolt in place of my 10 bolt in my 4x4 shortbed and didn't need a longer driveshaft, theres enough slip in the yoke to allow for an extra 3/4".
I have always wondered if a 12 bolt is really any stronger, the pinion is actually smaller, the only real advantage is slightly larger bearings and a slightly larger ring gear. I thought everybody pretty much said a 12 bolt is just as strong as a 10 bolt. But, I never really listen, if its got bigger measurements it must be better right? hehe. I wouldn't waste money on a 10 bolt either, I would buy an open carrier and install an aftermarket posi unit, don't use GM stock junk.
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10-21-2004, 10:52 PM | #18 |
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yeah, eaton posi all the way!
and the CAR 12bolts are supposed to be very very strong. the truck ones, not so much. its just to bad that the car ones are getting so hard to find. |
10-21-2004, 11:11 PM | #19 |
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The only difference is the pinion shaft size right? I know the car pinion shafts are bigger than the truck versions, not sure why though, I would expect a truck axle to be stronger.
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1985 Scottsdale Shortbed 4x4 Stout 350 with some "upgrades"-700r4-33x12.5" Mud Tires, Warn 8274-50 winch. 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Regular Cab 2wd 4-banger, 5 speed, Street Pack with 3.73 axle. |
10-22-2004, 04:26 AM | #20 |
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ive had a 10 bolt do that same exact thing before. But i didnt know it till that shaft had come out allowing the spider gears to move around and get chewed up. Then one shot out the bottom and out the top. Needless to say it was time for a new rear end.
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10-23-2004, 09:39 PM | #21 |
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Many a salvage yard has 12 bolt rear ends available. A 3/4 ton truck rear end will work, you will have to change the axles to the five bolt pattern that you have. I put a 12 bolt under my son's truck and put all new brake assemblies on the axle. The posi unit should be purchased new, unless you trust the guy that is selling it. I had one that I got from a salvage yard and it needed a lot of work. I bought a new carrier unit for what I would have to put into the rebuild. I recommend a complete new set of seals and brakes when you do it, no need to go back and do it twice.
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10-24-2004, 02:50 AM | #22 |
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a 14 bolt (3/4 ton+ unit) will in fact bolt right in, but its way more weight than he needs. what the 12 bolt has in strenght in the bearing and ring gear areas, it lacks in the pinion gear area. you have a 10 bolt, build a 10 bolt. no sense in throwing money away on a 12 bolt when you're not going to gain anything.
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10-24-2004, 05:42 AM | #23 |
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Axles are larger Diatmer 12 Bolt Vs 10 Bolt.
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