Front driveshaft - Double cardan joint bad? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**Stocker** · 10-21-2004, 08:59 PM

For quite some time now, I have had a noise I can't really describe. It's road-speed related, kind of a soft ratcheting, whirring sound that comes & goes, presumably with each rotation of the front driveshaft (in 2WD, hubs out - normal "relaxed" rotation from front axle drag).

I pulled out the front driveshaft and the noise is gone, so I'm guessing it's the double carden joint, though I can't see anything obviously wrong.

Can the driveshaft be rebuilt (replace the joint), or do I need a new driveshaft? If I need new, can anyone recommend some good sources?

Thanks, guys (& gals!)

Bill W · 10-21-2004, 10:45 PM

Those joints are rebuildable. I have never rebuilt one myself but Ilve taken the driveshaft into a shop and had it done on my pickup and suburban.

Call around to shops and get a price quote.

Bill

1969 GMC · 10-21-2004, 11:32 PM

My truck was so bad when I got it, that the front driveshaft smacked the exhaust pipe when I put it in 4wd, and it sounded like a machine gun. I got the cardan rebuilt, driveshaft balanced, and some cheapo spraypaint, for $100-$125 or so. I replaced the ujoints myself.

clarkjw24 · 10-22-2004, 12:15 AM

LMC sells a rebuild kit for that joint. Around $30 I believe. I've had them apart and theres not much to them however I'm usually short on time and need my front driveshaft right then so I've never rebuilt one. I just put another driveshaft in. I try to keep about 4 extra front shafts on standby.

**JIMs70GMC** · 10-22-2004, 07:31 PM

Just rebuilt mine. Cost about $80 for the parts. 3 u-joints and centering yoke. The centering yoke is $65 through lmc, I paid $45 at a local drive line shop(spicer part). The centering yoke has a bearing in it.

**Stocker** · 10-22-2004, 09:35 PM

Thanks, guys. Lacking a workbench, not to mention a shop, I dropped off the shaft at a local shop late this afternoon. They'll replace the double cardan joint and the u-joint, so it oughtta be good for another 33 years!

Funny thing is, today I noticed the noise again, but much quieter

. Now I'm guessing it may be coming from the front diff, and is amplified though the driveshaft. Oh well, I haven't put any $$ into the Beast in about 12 years, and the old joints were possibly a bit tired anyway. Guess I'll still be tracking down the noise, or live with it until something is destroyed, lol!

72k5 · 10-26-2004, 05:58 PM

I'm not sure I'm reading your original post right but, if the hubs are unlocked, and the TC is in 2WD, the driveshaft should not be turning. Is it possible that one hub is screwed up and not unlocking? That will defininely cause noises from the front diff.

**JIMs70GMC** · 10-26-2004, 06:50 PM

I don't have the boots on my shifters on my 71 and can watch the front driveshaft turn slowly. It's the parasitic drag of the gear oil causing it to turn. But any resistance should cause it to stop turning.

**Stocker** · 10-26-2004, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72k5

I'm not sure I'm reading your original post right but, if the hubs are unlocked, and the TC is in 2WD, the driveshaft should not be turning. Is it possible that one hub is screwed up and not unlocking? That will defininely cause noises from the front diff.

I'm guessing my front shaft is turning as I've seen on many other 4x4s when in 2WD, due to the parasitic drag mentioned by Jim above. I have Warn Lock-O-Matic hubs, and if I inadvertantly have one in and one out, I get a heavy thumping sound from the front end - so I'm assuming both hubs are out, and working properly. Thanks for the suggestion, though - I've been wrong before, and I'll do what I can to check it out.

*1FaastC10* · 10-26-2004, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clarkjw24

LMC sells a rebuild kit for that joint. Around $30 I believe. I've had them apart and theres not much to them however I'm usually short on time and need my front driveshaft right then so I've never rebuilt one. I just put another driveshaft in. I try to keep about 4 extra front shafts on standby.

3 letters my friend, H-A-D

clarkjw24 · 10-26-2004, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1FaastC10

3 letters my friend, H-A-D

I called H A D and I've got 7 letters N O M O N E Y.

72k5 · 10-27-2004, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JIMs70GMC

I don't have the boots on my shifters on my 71 and can watch the front driveshaft turn slowly.

I'm with ya! I figured you were seeing it turning at driveway speeds. Nevermind!

10-21-2004, 08:59 PM	#1
Stocker 20' Daredevil (Ret) Join Date: May 2003 Location: Jefferson State Posts: 13,567	Front driveshaft - Double cardan joint bad? For quite some time now, I have had a noise I can't really describe. It's road-speed related, kind of a soft ratcheting, whirring sound that comes & goes, presumably with each rotation of the front driveshaft (in 2WD, hubs out - normal "relaxed" rotation from front axle drag). I pulled out the front driveshaft and the noise is gone, so I'm guessing it's the double carden joint, though I can't see anything obviously wrong. Can the driveshaft be rebuilt (replace the joint), or do I need a new driveshaft? If I need new, can anyone recommend some good sources? Thanks, guys (& gals!) __________________ - Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay

10-21-2004, 11:32 PM	#3
1969 GMC Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: The Rubber City Posts: 5,498	My truck was so bad when I got it, that the front driveshaft smacked the exhaust pipe when I put it in 4wd, and it sounded like a machine gun. I got the cardan rebuilt, driveshaft balanced, and some cheapo spraypaint, for $100-$125 or so. I replaced the ujoints myself. __________________ 1969 GMC K2500 1996 Honda Accord 2007 Kawasaki KLR 650

10-22-2004, 07:31 PM	#5
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Just rebuilt mine. Cost about $80 for the parts. 3 u-joints and centering yoke. The centering yoke is $65 through lmc, I paid $45 at a local drive line shop(spicer part). The centering yoke has a bearing in it. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

10-22-2004, 09:35 PM	#6
Stocker 20' Daredevil (Ret) Join Date: May 2003 Location: Jefferson State Posts: 13,567	Thanks, guys. Lacking a workbench, not to mention a shop, I dropped off the shaft at a local shop late this afternoon. They'll replace the double cardan joint and the u-joint, so it oughtta be good for another 33 years! Funny thing is, today I noticed the noise again, but much quieter . Now I'm guessing it may be coming from the front diff, and is amplified though the driveshaft. Oh well, I haven't put any $$ into the Beast in about 12 years, and the old joints were possibly a bit tired anyway. Guess I'll still be tracking down the noise, or live with it until something is destroyed, lol! __________________ - Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay

10-26-2004, 05:58 PM	#7
72k5 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Livermore, CA Posts: 566	I'm not sure I'm reading your original post right but, if the hubs are unlocked, and the TC is in 2WD, the driveshaft should not be turning. Is it possible that one hub is screwed up and not unlocking? That will defininely cause noises from the front diff. __________________ 350 ETec 170 heads, Performer, HEI, Holly TBI, 700r4, 14 bolt rear, F&R lockers, lots of off road improvements.

10-21-2004, 10:45 PM	#2
Bill W Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Oregon Posts: 229	Those joints are rebuildable. I have never rebuilt one myself but Ilve taken the driveshaft into a shop and had it done on my pickup and suburban. Call around to shops and get a price quote. Bill

10-22-2004, 12:15 AM	#4
clarkjw24 I like cheese Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: McBee, SC Posts: 192	LMC sells a rebuild kit for that joint. Around $30 I believe. I've had them apart and theres not much to them however I'm usually short on time and need my front driveshaft right then so I've never rebuilt one. I just put another driveshaft in. I try to keep about 4 extra front shafts on standby.

10-26-2004, 06:50 PM	#8
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	I don't have the boots on my shifters on my 71 and can watch the front driveshaft turn slowly. It's the parasitic drag of the gear oil causing it to turn. But any resistance should cause it to stop turning. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm



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