How to replace HO52 axle seals?

[Stocker]

While cleaning up my wheels (topic for another post), I found one drum covered with oil, so I need to find out if I can replace the seal or farm the work out. I have basic hand tools and a concrete driveway, but not a lot of time - and the weather's been a bit dicey lately. What needs to be done, and how difficult is it? As always, thanks for the advice!

[Fred T]

It's not that difficult to replace the seals. The axles come out by removing the 8 bolts in the center hub. Inside the hub you will find two nuts with a locking washer between them. Start removal by bending the tabs on the lock plate back, then use a screwdrive and hammer to loosend the nuts. With both nuts out, the entire hub and brake drum can be pulled straight off. This hub/drum is heavy and akward. You might have to back off the brake adjusters to get the drum off the shoes.

The seal is just inside the inner end of the hub. It can be a pain to pry out. When installing the new seal, look inside the rubber and you should find a spring that keeps the seal against the differential. This spring needs to be located so it is always in the diffential gear lube. I usually tap the seal in with a 2X4 and a hammer.

Other things that need done. Replace the seal on each side. Be sure the differential breather is open, it's a hose on the top drivers side. If it is clogged, ther is no where for the expanding gasses, and will blow out your new seals.

Brake shoes will need replaced. The gear lube fills the lining and cannot be completely removed.

The hardest part is placing the hub on your truck. First, apply a little grease to the axle shaft and carefully place the drum on the shaft. The rubber nicks easily, so you must slide the seal over the S&W pistol.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by Fred T

The hardest part is placing the hub on your truck. First, apply a little grease to the axle shaft and carefully place the drum on the shaft. The rubber nicks easily, so you must slide the seal over the S&W pistol.

Thanks, Fred, great instructions and sounds fairly straightforward. I figured the brakes would be soaked, but I hadn't thought about the vent hose. What's not clear to me, however, is the last part of your post, above. I have a Dan Wesson .357, but not a Smith & Wesson, lol!

[Fred T]

Dang. I must have gone to sleep at the switch last night. That whole last sentence don't make sense, looks like my kid wrote it.

First, apply a little grease to the axle shaft and carefully place the drum on the shaft. The rubber nicks easily, so the hub must be held on the axis of the shaft. There is usually a step on the shaft just before the inner bearing, the seal has to go over the step.

I made an adapter for my floor jack that bolts onto the lugs and lets me set the hub where all I have to do is slide it on, haven't cut a seal since.

Another thing I have found, but don't think the newer trucks have, is on my 52 the brake drum is a separate part from the hub. I can place the hub, the screw the drum to the hub.

I think it must be time to go back to sleep and dream about my guns again.

[Stocker]

Thanks for the clarification! After reading that a few times, I thought I was losing it! No need to pay $$ for this, I'll get the parts & do the job myself.

[Stocker]

Turned out to be very easy, especially since the oil somehow didn't make it to the brakes after all - just seeped between the hub and drum. Got everything cleaned up quite nicely and replaced the seal. Took about two hours with simple tools and lots of paper towels. I don't have a vent hose on the diff, just a small dirt-encrusted vent cap, which I wire-brushed clean and hopefully it works. I am able to wiggle the cap on it a bit.

[68w/sbc406]

did you remember to slide the seal over the S&W pistol???