Rear Fender Patch - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

bluec10 · 10-27-2004, 11:35 PM

Just started the process of patching the rear fender rust on my '76. Now, I know this is a very rare phenomenon for 73-87's (LOL), but does anyone have any advice for me before I really get into it?

Any advice about measuring for the new fender opening?

NeCrOmAnCeR · 10-29-2004, 12:17 PM

I would recommend cutting the patch down so it does not cross over the body line . I have one I did not do that on and the line where the replacement panel is is not as sharp. Plus the bedside seems weaker.
Place the patch panel (trimmed as said above) as tight against the bed as you can get it, then trace around it with a marker. remove the panel and redraw another line about 1 inch inside of the traced line. If you plan on flanging the joint, do so and start welding. If you are going to cut to fit, cut a little at a time until you have the opening you need. When welding use a bunch of short welds to heep the heat down.

bluec10 · 11-01-2004, 12:13 AM

Thanks for the advice. What I'm most concerned about is getting the fender properly aligned over the wheel. I was concerned about getting the body crease aligned properly; your advice confirms my concern.

86dieselburb · 11-01-2004, 01:31 PM

Try to make your patch so you dont have to worry about the creases. If your taking care of the rust on the rear lower wheel opening you shouldnt have any creases to worry about. I've done both sides on my 80 longbed and it was a breeze.

Try these panel clamps. They are awesome at making sure the panels match up.

Panel Clamps

10-27-2004, 11:35 PM	#1
bluec10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 663	Rear Fender Patch Just started the process of patching the rear fender rust on my '76. Now, I know this is a very rare phenomenon for 73-87's (LOL), but does anyone have any advice for me before I really get into it? Any advice about measuring for the new fender opening? __________________ Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said.

11-01-2004, 12:13 AM	#3
bluec10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 663	Thanks for the advice. What I'm most concerned about is getting the fender properly aligned over the wheel. I was concerned about getting the body crease aligned properly; your advice confirms my concern. __________________ Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said.

11-01-2004, 01:31 PM	#4
86dieselburb Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Crestline, CA Posts: 128	Try to make your patch so you dont have to worry about the creases. If your taking care of the rust on the rear lower wheel opening you shouldnt have any creases to worry about. I've done both sides on my 80 longbed and it was a breeze. Try these panel clamps. They are awesome at making sure the panels match up. Panel Clamps Last edited by 86dieselburb; 11-01-2004 at 01:35 PM.

10-29-2004, 12:17 PM	#2
NeCrOmAnCeR Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Hodgenville, Ky Posts: 735	I would recommend cutting the patch down so it does not cross over the body line . I have one I did not do that on and the line where the replacement panel is is not as sharp. Plus the bedside seems weaker. Place the patch panel (trimmed as said above) as tight against the bed as you can get it, then trace around it with a marker. remove the panel and redraw another line about 1 inch inside of the traced line. If you plan on flanging the joint, do so and start welding. If you are going to cut to fit, cut a little at a time until you have the opening you need. When welding use a bunch of short welds to heep the heat down.



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