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11-06-2004, 07:39 PM
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#1 |
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my gas saver
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 2,046
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help p/s removal
i`ve been fighting this stupid thing for 30 minutes. i can`t get this little arm loose and this suspension was just redone. i`m sure tx firefighter or someone has a tip for doing this, thanks, eric.
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85' SWB, 4.3/TH350, getting ready for paint 84`SWB, 462ci./TH400, cowl hood, 15" billet spec., flows, blazer buckets/console, flat black 71`SWB, project ebay feedback |
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11-06-2004, 07:42 PM
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my gas saver
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 2,046
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i`ve tried both ends and i`d rather not remove it at the splined part on the p/s box. i`d rather get it at the other end where it connects to the steering bar across the front.
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85' SWB, 4.3/TH350, getting ready for paint 84`SWB, 462ci./TH400, cowl hood, 15" billet spec., flows, blazer buckets/console, flat black 71`SWB, project ebay feedback |
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11-06-2004, 07:44 PM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
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You just need to get a pickle fork to seperate that joint. About $14 or some parts stores will even rent them out to use
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11-06-2004, 07:45 PM
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#4 |
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Active Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 249
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You need a tie rod fork for the other end. Autozone will lend you one for a few bucks deposit.
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69 C10 LWB Project 47 Cushman Scooter Project It is better to have loved and lost than to live with a psycho all your life.  
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11-06-2004, 07:50 PM
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Delta,Pa
Posts: 14,950
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you either need a tie rod fork for the one end or a pittman arm puller for the other end you will not get it off without it. dont beat on that stud with a hammer you will mushroom it and not be able to get the nut back on it
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Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member. |
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11-06-2004, 07:54 PM
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#6 |
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my gas saver
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 2,046
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yeah i tapped on it with a block of wood and it didn`t budge, i figured it needed a special tool, thanks fellas.
__________________
85' SWB, 4.3/TH350, getting ready for paint 84`SWB, 462ci./TH400, cowl hood, 15" billet spec., flows, blazer buckets/console, flat black 71`SWB, project ebay feedback |
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11-06-2004, 08:35 PM
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#7 |
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Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Hook a prybar over the top of the center link and underneath the frame or the crossmember, or whatever and pry the center link in the downward direction, hard. Then, while holding the downward tension, hit the center link where the stud goes through with a serious hammer thump.
Sometimes, it takes a couple of thumps, but they always pop loose evetually. I'm talking about hitting the center link on the side of where the stud goes through. Hit it perpendicularly to the stud. Don't hit the stud. It will work, I haven't used a pickle fork in years, since I learned this trick.
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
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11-07-2004, 07:10 PM
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#8 |
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my gas saver
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 2,046
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bought the tie rod end remover for $9 today at o, o, o, o,reilly`s and it popped off in seconds, thanks again, eric.
__________________
85' SWB, 4.3/TH350, getting ready for paint 84`SWB, 462ci./TH400, cowl hood, 15" billet spec., flows, blazer buckets/console, flat black 71`SWB, project ebay feedback |
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