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Old 11-08-2004, 07:35 PM   #1
cliffsta
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Changing shocks, hep me.

A ight. Apparently changing my shocks isn't as easy as it was conveyed to me by many people. Sucks when people assume you know things. So, how the heck do you do it? You need 2 jacks? What do i torque the bolts to when i put the new ones on? Help! I might as well take the wheels off so i can check my brakes, cause they are starting to squeal.
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1980 Chevy C10 Custum Deluxe Stepside 305 V8, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock 1406 600CFM 4-barrel, TH350C. Bent rod. SOLD
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1999 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder, 17" Motegi Wheels 215/45/17 Sumitomo tires, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, KYB GR2 shocks, Acura TL 20mm rear swaybar, debadged, blackhoused headlights, Short-Ram Intake
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Old 11-08-2004, 07:50 PM   #2
low 84
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you dont need any jacks. just unbolt the shock and the top and bottom eyes. the shock dosen't support any load so you don't need to jack anything. you might have to put some pressure on the shock with you hand to get the bolt to slide out easily
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Old 11-08-2004, 08:17 PM   #3
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You sure? I don't wanna catch a shock in the face when i loosen a bolt.
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1981 Chevy C10 Custom Deluxe Stepside 350 V8, headers, side exhausts, 3-speed auto SOLD
1980 Chevy C10 Custum Deluxe Stepside 305 V8, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock 1406 600CFM 4-barrel, TH350C. Bent rod. SOLD
1984 GMC Sierra Classic Longbed 6.2L Diesel SOLD
2009 Kawasaki KLX-250S too many mods for this signature
1999 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder, 17" Motegi Wheels 215/45/17 Sumitomo tires, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, KYB GR2 shocks, Acura TL 20mm rear swaybar, debadged, blackhoused headlights, Short-Ram Intake
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Old 11-08-2004, 08:33 PM   #4
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Nope, he's right. Just unbolt the ends, compress the shock slightly, & wiggle the shock until all the crap & crust breaks loose & it will come right off. Installation is opposite of removal w/o all the dirt.

Did the new shocks not come w/destructions?
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Old 11-08-2004, 08:55 PM   #5
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yeah i'm sure, i've replaced 1 or 2 before...... actually more like 50+, lol
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'05 1500 Crew Cab

RIP
'84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker
'80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's
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Old 11-08-2004, 09:17 PM   #6
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well, some el crapo squiggle drawings on the box, if those count as destructions. Well, i feel much better. Anything else i gotta do? Just striaght out and in? If so, ill do it tomorrow after school.
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1981 Chevy C10 Custom Deluxe Stepside 350 V8, headers, side exhausts, 3-speed auto SOLD
1980 Chevy C10 Custum Deluxe Stepside 305 V8, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock 1406 600CFM 4-barrel, TH350C. Bent rod. SOLD
1984 GMC Sierra Classic Longbed 6.2L Diesel SOLD
2009 Kawasaki KLX-250S too many mods for this signature
1999 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder, 17" Motegi Wheels 215/45/17 Sumitomo tires, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, KYB GR2 shocks, Acura TL 20mm rear swaybar, debadged, blackhoused headlights, Short-Ram Intake
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Old 11-09-2004, 02:21 AM   #7
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yes its that simple. They will not shoot out and get you.

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Old 11-09-2004, 07:34 AM   #8
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If they need replaced, they probably are very weak and will compress very easy. The new shocks should be alot more stiff, but compressable by hand. Clean the bolt threads that are showing to help when removing the lower shock bolt and nut.
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Old 11-09-2004, 05:17 PM   #9
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Another little trick in installing new shocks is to leave the plastic banding on the new shock in place until you're installing it. This will save you some of the effort in compressing it. Install one end, then cut the band and guide the other end into place.

You may need an impact wrench if some of the nuts are really rusty. But, there's really not much to it. What you see is what you get!

Good luck!
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Old 11-09-2004, 05:37 PM   #10
76sierraclassic
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The only other thing that could potentially give you trouble is if the original bolts/studs are bad and you have to replace them. Other than that, it's as easy as the guys have already said.

Good luck....

Mike
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:08 PM   #11
cliffsta
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What torque do i tighten the bolts up to?
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1981 Chevy C10 Custom Deluxe Stepside 350 V8, headers, side exhausts, 3-speed auto SOLD
1980 Chevy C10 Custum Deluxe Stepside 305 V8, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock 1406 600CFM 4-barrel, TH350C. Bent rod. SOLD
1984 GMC Sierra Classic Longbed 6.2L Diesel SOLD
2009 Kawasaki KLX-250S too many mods for this signature
1999 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder, 17" Motegi Wheels 215/45/17 Sumitomo tires, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, KYB GR2 shocks, Acura TL 20mm rear swaybar, debadged, blackhoused headlights, Short-Ram Intake
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Old 11-10-2004, 12:07 AM   #12
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Changing shocks

Cliffsta;

Rear shocks:
Upper Attachment - 150 ft/lbs
Lower Attachment - 115 ft/lbs

Front shocks:
Upper Attachment - 140 ft/lbs
Lower Attachment - 60 ft/lbs

From the 1980 Light Duty Service Manual

Hope this helps.

Doug

Last edited by dswancutt; 11-10-2004 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 11-10-2004, 12:21 AM   #13
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cliffsta, exact torque on the bolts is not that critisal on shocks as it would be on heads for instance.
If you have the type (generally the top on the front) that has the rubber bushings and nut over the shock piston shaft, the tighten til you just start to compress the rubber bushings then tighten the lock nut.
You dont want to mash the bushings flat.
One other piece of advice I can share with you is something my Father told me when I first started wrenching.
He said: now remember, Tight is fixed, too tight is broke.
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Old 11-10-2004, 10:59 AM   #14
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Let me tell you a story about shocks. About 30 years ago when I was in High School me and a friend of mine decided we were going to add some fluid to the shocks on the front of his dirt bike. I was sitting on the bike when we took the first big bolt off of the top of one shock and I was leaning over the shock. Well, I thought that it might pop out when we took the bolt off so I leaned back as we loosened it. Well when it came loose it shot up about an inch. Little did we know that all of the weight went on the other shock so when we took loose the other shock the spring shot up and hit me in the cheek and then hit the ceiling of the garage. Man did that ever hurt. Well I went to the hospital for stitches and blood was everywhere. Big ol' black eye. It just took a couple of stitches but boy did I learn a lesson about front shocks on motorcycles. I still have a scar to this day.
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Old 11-10-2004, 11:15 AM   #15
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Dont scare the kid. I dont think he will be taking apart his shocks. But, good story anyway.
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Old 11-10-2004, 05:56 PM   #16
cliffsta
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Well, it was successful last night. Ill make a nice story thread later tonight.
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1981 Chevy C10 Custom Deluxe Stepside 350 V8, headers, side exhausts, 3-speed auto SOLD
1980 Chevy C10 Custum Deluxe Stepside 305 V8, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock 1406 600CFM 4-barrel, TH350C. Bent rod. SOLD
1984 GMC Sierra Classic Longbed 6.2L Diesel SOLD
2009 Kawasaki KLX-250S too many mods for this signature
1999 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder, 17" Motegi Wheels 215/45/17 Sumitomo tires, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, KYB GR2 shocks, Acura TL 20mm rear swaybar, debadged, blackhoused headlights, Short-Ram Intake
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