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Old 11-16-2004, 10:57 AM   #1
CHEVYE
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manual to auto help

i got my chassis paint in yesterday and want to remove the old manual x member but it seems to be riveted in, should i just grind em off? i also have the auto x member from my old truck but it`s been awhile and i don`t remember if the holes should already be done for it??? any help is much appreciated, eric.
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Old 11-16-2004, 11:46 AM   #2
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Drill the rivets out. Easier with your setup. Holes will already be there for the auto-trans X-Member.
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Old 11-16-2004, 11:57 AM   #3
sneakysnake
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Grind the rivets flush then punch out with a chisel.Holes should be there for auto member
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Old 11-16-2004, 02:39 PM   #4
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i tried to drilled mine out, then torched them out. worked great
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Old 11-16-2004, 04:50 PM   #5
CHEVYE
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thanks
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Old 11-16-2004, 07:15 PM   #6
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Another way is to use a cut off tool and slot the head of the rivit, like a big slotted machine screw. Then use a flat chisel on an air hammer, or a chisel and a BFH, they will blow off real easy. Put the chisel here ~~~> (l) Hopefully that made sense LOL
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Old 11-16-2004, 07:22 PM   #7
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glock that`s what i was thinking, take a die grinder to it and chisel it off in sections.
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Old 11-16-2004, 09:20 PM   #8
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Works like a charm!
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1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!!
1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck

LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here!
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Old 11-17-2004, 01:04 AM   #9
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I tried grinding them off the rivets but I still couldn't get er out. The cab was still on tho. So I got a sawzall and a real good blade ( Bosch- Rescue & Demolition model) It cut like butter thru the member. I cut it near the frame rails so the "Y" section just fell out. But then I wasn't saving the old parts. Not sure what the blade is worth ( my neighbor is a rep & had a handfull of "samples". If I ever win the Lotto, I'm gonna just buy cars & cut 'em up, those blades work GREAT!
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Old 11-17-2004, 08:31 AM   #10
Tx Firefighter
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That's how I do it, a sawzall and a sledge hammer.

Cut the middle of the crossmember out to where there a just 4 wings left riveted to the frame. Then, take the sawzall and slice the rivet heads off.

Now, whack the wing with the sledge hammer and it will pop off with the remnants of the rivets left in it.
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Old 11-17-2004, 10:56 AM   #11
1970 CST Short Wide
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Why ruin the part buy cutting it in half. Take some time and grind off the rivets then punch them out. Someone might be interested in the manual Xmember.

I hate when people ruin good parts
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Old 11-17-2004, 11:45 AM   #12
68w/sbc406
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i havent heard of anyone changing from a auto to a 4 speed.
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags

'02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car)

1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler
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Old 11-17-2004, 12:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68w/sbc406
i havent heard of anyone changing from a auto to a 4 speed.
He, he ... you have now, check the user name...

SSOW
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Old 11-17-2004, 01:04 PM   #14
68w/sbc406
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i guess i am just thinking of the old sm420 4 speed i had. no performance what so ever, althought with a L6 only firing 4 that could have been more of my problem
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags

'02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car)

1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler
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