11-16-2004, 10:57 AM | #1 |
my gas saver
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 2,046
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manual to auto help
i got my chassis paint in yesterday and want to remove the old manual x member but it seems to be riveted in, should i just grind em off? i also have the auto x member from my old truck but it`s been awhile and i don`t remember if the holes should already be done for it??? any help is much appreciated, eric.
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85' SWB, 4.3/TH350, getting ready for paint 84`SWB, 462ci./TH400, cowl hood, 15" billet spec., flows, blazer buckets/console, flat black 71`SWB, project ebay feedback |
11-16-2004, 11:46 AM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: South Texas....the Valley
Posts: 199
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Drill the rivets out. Easier with your setup. Holes will already be there for the auto-trans X-Member.
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11-16-2004, 11:57 AM | #3 |
It's a catastrophic success.
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,077
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Grind the rivets flush then punch out with a chisel.Holes should be there for auto member
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11-16-2004, 02:39 PM | #4 |
Got Light Emitting Diode?
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Newberg, OR
Posts: 2,485
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i tried to drilled mine out, then torched them out. worked great
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler |
11-16-2004, 04:50 PM | #5 |
my gas saver
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 2,046
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thanks
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85' SWB, 4.3/TH350, getting ready for paint 84`SWB, 462ci./TH400, cowl hood, 15" billet spec., flows, blazer buckets/console, flat black 71`SWB, project ebay feedback |
11-16-2004, 07:15 PM | #6 |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,684
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Another way is to use a cut off tool and slot the head of the rivit, like a big slotted machine screw. Then use a flat chisel on an air hammer, or a chisel and a BFH, they will blow off real easy. Put the chisel here ~~~> (l) Hopefully that made sense LOL
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Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
11-16-2004, 07:22 PM | #7 |
my gas saver
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 2,046
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glock that`s what i was thinking, take a die grinder to it and chisel it off in sections.
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85' SWB, 4.3/TH350, getting ready for paint 84`SWB, 462ci./TH400, cowl hood, 15" billet spec., flows, blazer buckets/console, flat black 71`SWB, project ebay feedback |
11-16-2004, 09:20 PM | #8 |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,684
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Works like a charm!
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Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
11-17-2004, 01:04 AM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: saskatoon, planet earth
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I tried grinding them off the rivets but I still couldn't get er out. The cab was still on tho. So I got a sawzall and a real good blade ( Bosch- Rescue & Demolition model) It cut like butter thru the member. I cut it near the frame rails so the "Y" section just fell out. But then I wasn't saving the old parts. Not sure what the blade is worth ( my neighbor is a rep & had a handfull of "samples". If I ever win the Lotto, I'm gonna just buy cars & cut 'em up, those blades work GREAT!
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11-17-2004, 08:31 AM | #10 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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That's how I do it, a sawzall and a sledge hammer.
Cut the middle of the crossmember out to where there a just 4 wings left riveted to the frame. Then, take the sawzall and slice the rivet heads off. Now, whack the wing with the sledge hammer and it will pop off with the remnants of the rivets left in it.
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11-17-2004, 10:56 AM | #11 |
Senior Moment
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pittsburg Ca
Posts: 4,185
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Why ruin the part buy cutting it in half. Take some time and grind off the rivets then punch them out. Someone might be interested in the manual Xmember.
I hate when people ruin good parts
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1970 CST LS 1 6 speed Ford 9 inch Detroit Tru Track, Dakota Didgital, Vintage Air, QA1 Coil Overs Front & Rear Lots of FUN 2013 GMC PU, Oldest Son 71 GMC LWB. QA1 Suspension, Angry SB. Youngest Son 2019 GMC Diesil Dually. Youngest Son 2017 Toyota SUV Daughters car 2018 Traverse , Wife’s Ride Pittsburg Ca 94565 |
11-17-2004, 11:45 AM | #12 |
Got Light Emitting Diode?
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Newberg, OR
Posts: 2,485
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i havent heard of anyone changing from a auto to a 4 speed.
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler |
11-17-2004, 12:56 PM | #13 | |
Left Foot Functioning
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Duncan, OK
Posts: 350
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Quote:
SSOW
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69 C10 (#1 son's ride) 72 C20 (Dad's farm truck) 82 K30 (Ex - brush pumper project) |
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11-17-2004, 01:04 PM | #14 |
Got Light Emitting Diode?
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Newberg, OR
Posts: 2,485
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i guess i am just thinking of the old sm420 4 speed i had. no performance what so ever, althought with a L6 only firing 4 that could have been more of my problem
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler |
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