WTB: Floor sections with front cab mount holes - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

glock35ipsc · 11-22-2004, 01:55 PM

Does anyone have any good used floor sections that includes the front cab mount holes? The PO of my 68 welded in bolts, and there is just no good way to cut them out without destroying the floor and the holes.

So, all I really need is enough of the floor to include the cab mount hole and 2" - 5" of good metal to make a good cut-n-weld. Both sides are needed.

PM me or post here what you might have and how much $$.

Thanks! Bob

72swbcamo · 11-22-2004, 02:22 PM

Hi Bob:

I have a 68 cab that has the froint bolts welded in also. It looked to me as though they were welded by the factory. I would suggest you get yourself a goo quality carbide rotery file and use it with a air powered die grinder. You can file of the top of those bolts in no time and not have to getinto rewelding the floor sections.

Jim

J.Lance · 11-22-2004, 02:29 PM

The cab mount bolts are actually welded in at the factory in most cases. Sometimes they were not or just had a tiny spot weld. The welds on my 68 looked like a big blob but were not melted into the floor pan real well. To my surprise they popped out with a couple hits of the hammer from below. Don't push it too hard. If it is a good weld, you may tear the the sheet metal. Unfortunately they can not be ground very well due to the depression they sit in. If they don't pop out with a hammer, I'd go with the drill bit. I'd actually contemplated going with a hole saw just big enough to cut the weld away from the bolt but never have tried it. Seems like it should work though!?

Jason

**JIMs70GMC** · 11-22-2004, 02:32 PM

The 70 Cab I put on my 71 was like that also. Came loose with a couple taps of a hammer.

glock35ipsc · 11-22-2004, 03:30 PM

Well I'll be damned! I figured with the goober of a weld that was laid down, that it had to be the PO that did it. Well, I guess I will try to knock them out from the bottom.

Thanks for the info guys! Ya'll were a BIG help!!!!!!

11-22-2004, 01:55 PM	#1
glock35ipsc Next project: 1970 K10 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524 Posts: 6,685	WTB: Floor sections with front cab mount holes Does anyone have any good used floor sections that includes the front cab mount holes? The PO of my 68 welded in bolts, and there is just no good way to cut them out without destroying the floor and the holes. So, all I really need is enough of the floor to include the cab mount hole and 2" - 5" of good metal to make a good cut-n-weld. Both sides are needed. PM me or post here what you might have and how much $$. Thanks! Bob __________________ *Bob* 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 *next project!!* 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE

11-22-2004, 02:29 PM	#3
J.Lance Too many is never enough! Join Date: May 2003 Location: Idaho Falls, ID Posts: 455	The cab mount bolts are actually welded in at the factory in most cases. Sometimes they were not or just had a tiny spot weld. The welds on my 68 looked like a big blob but were not melted into the floor pan real well. To my surprise they popped out with a couple hits of the hammer from below. Don't push it too hard. If it is a good weld, you may tear the the sheet metal. Unfortunately they can not be ground very well due to the depression they sit in. If they don't pop out with a hammer, I'd go with the drill bit. I'd actually contemplated going with a hole saw just big enough to cut the weld away from the bolt but never have tried it. Seems like it should work though!? Jason __________________ Jason 1968 K10 SWB Fleetside 1971 K2500 GMC LWB 1968 K20 (later frame, donor body) 1972 C20 LWB parts truck 1993 K2500 Suburban, tow rig, 454, 4L80E NEW!! 18' Siem's car hauler 2004 Honda Odyssey (family man!)

11-22-2004, 02:32 PM	#4
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	The 70 Cab I put on my 71 was like that also. Came loose with a couple taps of a hammer. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

11-22-2004, 03:30 PM	#5
glock35ipsc Next project: 1970 K10 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524 Posts: 6,685	Well I'll be damned! I figured with the goober of a weld that was laid down, that it had to be the PO that did it. Well, I guess I will try to knock them out from the bottom. Thanks for the info guys! Ya'll were a BIG help!!!!!! __________________ *Bob* 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 *next project!!* 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE

11-22-2004, 02:22 PM	#2
72swbcamo Active Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Waterbury, CT Posts: 591	Hi Bob: I have a 68 cab that has the froint bolts welded in also. It looked to me as though they were welded by the factory. I would suggest you get yourself a goo quality carbide rotery file and use it with a air powered die grinder. You can file of the top of those bolts in no time and not have to getinto rewelding the floor sections. Jim



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