I Need Help...... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jugernot · 11-24-2004, 06:48 PM

No not medical or mental, I need mechanical help.. How do I remove the busings on the rear trailing arms. I tried a plumber's touch, but that did not do much, except sink up my garage. Do anyone have any ideas.

jugernot · 11-24-2004, 07:45 PM

anyone?????

Sweet72 · 11-24-2004, 07:59 PM

If you don't have a oxy acetylene torch, a sawzall with a metal blade or a hacksaw will do the trick. Cut through the inner steel shell from the center out and be sure not to cut into the outer shell cause this part may not come with your new bushings. They weren't included with my polyurethane set.

**JIMs70GMC** · 11-24-2004, 09:43 PM

You could "drill" the bushings out, use a small bit and drill in to the bushing and chunk it out. That's how I got the bushings out of my leaf springs.

jugernot · 11-24-2004, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JIMs70GMC

You could "drill" the bushings out, use a small bit and drill in to the bushing and chunk it out. That's how I got the bushings out of my leaf springs.

I had not thought of that, I have a drill and plenty of bits. Unfortunetly not jigsaw or sawsall. Thanks I will have to try that...

CG · 11-24-2004, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jugernot

I had not thought of that, I have a drill and plenty of bits. Unfortunetly not jigsaw or sawsall. Thanks I will have to try that...

a man without a sawsall??? tsk tsk

Tx Firefighter · 11-24-2004, 10:03 PM

I promise you, a 12 pack of good beer under your arm will get them knocked out at pretty much any shop in the country.

The secret is a big heavy duty air hammer. Usually takes about 10 seconds each. Let the professionals buy the high dollar air hammer, you just rent them with the beer.

It works...

jugernot · 11-24-2004, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sweet72

If you don't have a oxy acetylene torch, a sawzall with a metal blade or a hacksaw will do the trick. Cut through the inner steel shell from the center out and be sure not to cut into the outer shell cause this part may not come with your new bushings. They weren't included with my polyurethane set.

Sweet72,

I modified your idea, put my hack saw through the bushing and started sawing away. I made two cuts, collapsed the inner steel shell and pushed the bushing out. thanks

Sweet72 · 11-24-2004, 11:04 PM

Are you using poly replacements or rubber? I kinda wish I had gone with the poly-graphite ones like PST sells. Heard that the poly ones eventually squeak like crazy even if you use silicone grease on 'em. Guess I'll find out for sure when the '72 is back on the road.

jugernot · 11-24-2004, 11:15 PM

I am leaning more towards the poly-graphite ones, Dave at ECE recomended using them. I don't know if I will hear the sweak, I am going to run dual delta flow 40 series mufflers.

*Gee_Emm* · 11-24-2004, 11:16 PM

The way I do it is to basically set fire to them, seems like the only thing that works.

crews · 11-24-2004, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CG

a man without a sawsall??? tsk tsk

allright I must confess I do not possess one either....

Where do we go to be properly punished....

Sweet72 · 11-24-2004, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crews

allright I must confess I do not possess one either....

Where do we go to be properly punished....

To the wood shed of course!

crews · 11-24-2004, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sweet72

To the wood shed of course!

Thats not where I go when I want to be "punished"...OHHHHH that kind of punished, yeh, the wood shed!!!

11-24-2004, 06:48 PM	#1
jugernot Life, Be In It..... Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Novato, California Posts: 1,498	I Need Help...... No not medical or mental, I need mechanical help.. How do I remove the busings on the rear trailing arms. I tried a plumber's touch, but that did not do much, except sink up my garage. Do anyone have any ideas. __________________ Project Name: LEMON DROP. Reconstruction started "December 2000". Projected completion date "Who knows" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200082

11-24-2004, 07:45 PM	#2
jugernot Life, Be In It..... Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Novato, California Posts: 1,498	anyone????? __________________ Project Name: LEMON DROP. Reconstruction started "December 2000". Projected completion date "Who knows" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200082

11-24-2004, 07:59 PM	#3
Sweet72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Alexandria, VA Posts: 1,534	If you don't have a oxy acetylene torch, a sawzall with a metal blade or a hacksaw will do the trick. Cut through the inner steel shell from the center out and be sure not to cut into the outer shell cause this part may not come with your new bushings. They weren't included with my polyurethane set. __________________ '72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction. Last edited by Sweet72; 11-24-2004 at 10:09 PM.

11-24-2004, 09:43 PM	#4
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	You could "drill" the bushings out, use a small bit and drill in to the bushing and chunk it out. That's how I got the bushings out of my leaf springs. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

11-24-2004, 10:03 PM	#7
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	I promise you, a 12 pack of good beer under your arm will get them knocked out at pretty much any shop in the country. The secret is a big heavy duty air hammer. Usually takes about 10 seconds each. Let the professionals buy the high dollar air hammer, you just rent them with the beer. It works... __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

11-24-2004, 11:04 PM	#9
Sweet72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Alexandria, VA Posts: 1,534	Are you using poly replacements or rubber? I kinda wish I had gone with the poly-graphite ones like PST sells. Heard that the poly ones eventually squeak like crazy even if you use silicone grease on 'em. Guess I'll find out for sure when the '72 is back on the road. __________________ '72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction.

11-24-2004, 11:15 PM	#10
jugernot Life, Be In It..... Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Novato, California Posts: 1,498	I am leaning more towards the poly-graphite ones, Dave at ECE recomended using them. I don't know if I will hear the sweak, I am going to run dual delta flow 40 series mufflers. __________________ Project Name: LEMON DROP. Reconstruction started "December 2000". Projected completion date "Who knows" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200082

11-24-2004, 11:16 PM	#11
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 4,002	The way I do it is to basically set fire to them, seems like the only thing that works.



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