rusty cab floor (rear) - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

sicksanta · 11-27-2004, 10:02 AM

Just managed to get a 69 c10 stepside (the one with the spare stuck to the side).
When I took the seat out I found the rear portion of the cab to be badly rusted.
I can find patch panels for the front but as yet I cannot find anything for the rear.

Anyone know where I can get this kind of stuff or do I need to cut it out of a wrecked cab ?

Thanks

OhioDan · 11-27-2004, 10:07 AM

Mine was that way when I started also. Never found a patch panel, never thought to cut from another cab. Just removed rusted area, and manufactured repair panel my self.

dave2953 · 11-27-2004, 10:22 AM

Are you searching for cab corners or the rear section of the cab floor? You can get cab corners with Early Classic Enterprises or GMC Paul's. I think the Paddock also carries those parts. LMC has all the pieces to rebuild the cab but they are a little higher priced than most everyone else. Hope this helps.

sicksanta · 11-27-2004, 10:31 AM

its the floor itself, the part that bolts to the chassis just under the fuel tank

sicksanta · 11-27-2004, 10:45 AM

I don't know who LMC is could you expand or post the link, also for paddock
Thanks !!

*Gee_Emm* · 11-27-2004, 12:24 PM

http://www.lmctruck.com/

they make great catalogs :p

gr8scott51 · 11-27-2004, 12:25 PM

If you go to the home page for this website (not the message board) you find links for lots of vendors. Here's the link for the home page if I'm not clear. http://207.44.196.117/

poink 71 chev · 11-28-2004, 12:33 AM

I have do the same. Do the floors keep extending parallel into the corners? Mine are completely gone,and i didnt know if they recessed down or not......Thats probably where my factory jack went! lol

hobby67stepside · 11-28-2004, 01:14 AM

santa (I hope you are not really sick

). When I repaired all the rust in my cab I could not find patch panels for the rear area. I made what I needed. I did this 2 or 3 years ago and maybe by now there are replacement parts available. Here's a couple pics. In the one where the floor is coming together anything not blue is what I made from scratch. Not shown in the 2nd pic is the rear main crossmember that I removed to completely rebuild. This is to explain the void under the cab.

72MARIO · 11-28-2004, 01:41 AM

Wow ! I though I was the only one on Crack that was crazy enough to drill all of the spot welds out of the back wall and cab frame and fab up my own rear cab frame. Lot's of work Eh ? I kinda wish I would have bought a southern truck sometimes.

hobby67stepside · 11-28-2004, 02:29 AM

Mario, I'm not on crack, but sometimes I get an overdose of Budweiser :p Here's a couple more pics of the support. Oh yeah, it's a lot of work. I guess 70 to 80 spot welds to remove to get this critter out.

kingsolver72 · 11-28-2004, 03:02 AM

I would like to see what you could get done if you drank Bud light.

MOTHERTRUCKERS · 11-28-2004, 09:55 AM

There is no patch for the rear inner corners, we have made templates that we use and cut it out of 18ga. I have templates for firewall,floor,rear wall and dash to save time when doing a customers cab.

sicksanta · 11-28-2004, 01:49 PM

I got the cab of the chassis and onto the garage floor,
is it ok to roll it back onto the rear of the cab so as to work on the bottom more easily ? Whould this deform anything ?

*Randy70C-10* · 11-28-2004, 02:15 PM

I've made those same patches from scratch as well.
hobby67stepside- That looks great!

72MARIO · 11-28-2004, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Mario, I'm not on crack, but sometimes I get an overdose of Budweiser

Well Mabye Crack was the wrong word. But crazy would decribe it better. I used weld thru primer between the rear frame and floor pan befor plug welding the back into place.

hobby67stepside · 11-28-2004, 03:46 PM

Yeah, it was crazy, I'll agree with that.

At the time I was doing the work I was trying to roughly keep track of the hours I put in. I've forgotten now , but it was a lot. Thanks, Randy. Santa, I rolled my cab onto the firewall to do a lot of the work.

*Gee_Emm* · 11-28-2004, 03:51 PM

I prefer to roll them onto the firewall, the metal is more structurally stronger there and there is less of a risk of cosmetic damage to the sheet metal

sicksanta · 11-29-2004, 10:14 AM

Thanks for all the input, its my first rebuild so all this is usefull stuff

11-27-2004, 10:02 AM	#1
sicksanta Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: MASS Posts: 13	rusty cab floor (rear) Just managed to get a 69 c10 stepside (the one with the spare stuck to the side). When I took the seat out I found the rear portion of the cab to be badly rusted. I can find patch panels for the front but as yet I cannot find anything for the rear. Anyone know where I can get this kind of stuff or do I need to cut it out of a wrecked cab ? Thanks

11-27-2004, 10:07 AM	#2
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	Mine was that way when I started also. Never found a patch panel, never thought to cut from another cab. Just removed rusted area, and manufactured repair panel my self. __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started. Last edited by OhioDan; 11-27-2004 at 05:11 PM.

11-27-2004, 12:25 PM	#7
gr8scott51 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Bremerton, WA Posts: 1,839	If you go to the home page for this website (not the message board) you find links for lots of vendors. Here's the link for the home page if I'm not clear. http://207.44.196.117/ __________________ Silence is golden, duct tape is silver. - Scott

11-28-2004, 01:14 AM	#9
hobby67stepside Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 952	santa (I hope you are not really sick ). When I repaired all the rust in my cab I could not find patch panels for the rear area. I made what I needed. I did this 2 or 3 years ago and maybe by now there are replacement parts available. Here's a couple pics. In the one where the floor is coming together anything not blue is what I made from scratch. Not shown in the 2nd pic is the rear main crossmember that I removed to completely rebuild. This is to explain the void under the cab. Last edited by hobby67stepside; 11-28-2004 at 01:18 AM. Reason: addition

11-28-2004, 01:41 AM	#10
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	Wow ! I though I was the only one on Crack that was crazy enough to drill all of the spot welds out of the back wall and cab frame and fab up my own rear cab frame. Lot's of work Eh ? I kinda wish I would have bought a southern truck sometimes. __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

11-27-2004, 10:22 AM	#3
dave2953 Dave's not here, man Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Winder, Georgia Posts: 2,000	Are you searching for cab corners or the rear section of the cab floor? You can get cab corners with Early Classic Enterprises or GMC Paul's. I think the Paddock also carries those parts. LMC has all the pieces to rebuild the cab but they are a little higher priced than most everyone else. Hope this helps.

11-27-2004, 10:31 AM	#4
sicksanta Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: MASS Posts: 13	its the floor itself, the part that bolts to the chassis just under the fuel tank

11-27-2004, 10:45 AM	#5
sicksanta Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: MASS Posts: 13	I don't know who LMC is could you expand or post the link, also for paddock Thanks !!

11-27-2004, 12:24 PM	#6
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 4,002	http://www.lmctruck.com/ they make great catalogs :p

11-28-2004, 12:33 AM	#8
poink 71 chev Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 55	I have do the same. Do the floors keep extending parallel into the corners? Mine are completely gone,and i didnt know if they recessed down or not......Thats probably where my factory jack went! lol

11-28-2004, 02:29 AM	#11
hobby67stepside Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 952	Mario, I'm not on crack, but sometimes I get an overdose of Budweiser :p Here's a couple more pics of the support. Oh yeah, it's a lot of work. I guess 70 to 80 spot welds to remove to get this critter out. __________________ '05 2500 HD Silverado 6.0 liter '97 2500 4X4 454 eng '92 2500 4X4 350 eng '78 K20 4X4 400 eng '70 Boss 302 (owner for 27 years) '57 Ford shortbox 383 stroker TH350 tranny '23 T-bucket (built in '78) '02 Explorer '67 C-10 short step NW Iowa

11-28-2004, 03:02 AM	#12
kingsolver72 10/30/19 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: ottawa kansas Posts: 5,244	I would like to see what you could get done if you drank Bud light.

11-28-2004, 09:55 AM	#13
MOTHERTRUCKERS Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: BRADENTON FLA Posts: 3,269	There is no patch for the rear inner corners, we have made templates that we use and cut it out of 18ga. I have templates for firewall,floor,rear wall and dash to save time when doing a customers cab. __________________ Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.

11-28-2004, 01:49 PM	#14
sicksanta Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: MASS Posts: 13	I got the cab of the chassis and onto the garage floor, is it ok to roll it back onto the rear of the cab so as to work on the bottom more easily ? Whould this deform anything ?

11-28-2004, 02:15 PM	#15
Randy70C-10 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A. Posts: 15,320	I've made those same patches from scratch as well. hobby67stepside- That looks great!



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11-28-2004, 03:46 PM	#17
hobby67stepside Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 952	Yeah, it was crazy, I'll agree with that. At the time I was doing the work I was trying to roughly keep track of the hours I put in. I've forgotten now , but it was a lot. Thanks, Randy. Santa, I rolled my cab onto the firewall to do a lot of the work.

11-28-2004, 03:51 PM	#18
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 4,002	I prefer to roll them onto the firewall, the metal is more structurally stronger there and there is less of a risk of cosmetic damage to the sheet metal

11-29-2004, 10:14 AM	#19
sicksanta Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: MASS Posts: 13	Thanks for all the input, its my first rebuild so all this is usefull stuff

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