Pinion Oil Seal leaking: Need help with the right tools

[Edmond]

Okay this is the problem: I have a leaking Pinion Oil Seal. It's not leaking much
but enough to make the underside of the bed pretty greasy.
Anyway this is a job I just can't do my self, so I brought the truck to my local garage.
They couldn't do the job because they didn't had the right tool to remove the nut that holds the oil flange.
They tried everything but did not succeed.
Is the special tool (as mentioned in the 1971 Service Manual on page 4-27) available to buy?
Or can anybody give me an alternitive on any other tool they can use?
Remember, I'm in the Netherlands, so I won't be able to go to Autozone or anything like that very easy :p

Any help on this is much appreciated.

Cya,
Edmond

[jhow66]

Will have to use 3/4 drive socket and pull handle with a "cheater " on end of pull handle. Use long pipe wrench resting against floor to hold yoke. The special tool is just something to hold yoke which the pipe wrench does. Can't remember what size socket fits the nut.(1-1/16 or 1-1/8). Done this just recently on my son's 72 Blazer.

[StingRay]

Take a piece of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 1/8 angle iron acouple of feet long and grind a semi circle part way out of one of the flanges on the angle near one end so that you can overlay the angle onto the pinion flange such that you can mark two of the u-joint bolt holes on it yet still be able to access the pinion nut. Drill holes and bolt it the the pinion yoke. Use this as a lever to hold the pinion from turning. Aquire an impact socket big enough for the nut and make sure that the piece of angle has a big enough area clearanced to allow the socket on the nut. Count the number of threads exposed past the nut and mark the nut for clocking in relation to the pinion shaft with a punch for reference. You will need to get the nut back to exactly where it was plus a hair when you tighten it back up. Use your impact wrench on a medium air setting to get the nut started but don't let it spin it more than a fraction of a turn or you won't be able to count the number of turns the nut takes to come off. You should know how many turns it takes so you have a better ideal of how far it has to turn back on to be in the same place. If you can get the nut off with regular hand tools go for it but they are usually way to tight whenever I try them. With the nut off remove the pinion yoke(use a puller if necessary) and examine it's condition. If it has a substantial groove in it get a speedy sleeve to repair it. Install your new seal and then use some non hardening sealant on the yoke splines. I'd use some on the seal where it seals between the outer edge of the seal and the diff housing too. Reasemble all of the parts as they came off and tighten the nut back up to exactly the same # of turns it took to get it off. Line up your marks and verify that the same # of threads are left exposed. You may need the impact for this also. You want to get it a teensy bit tighter than it was to make sure the sleeve is in compression but not crushed any further. It's really not that tough once you do one.

[Tx Firefighter]

Or you can have someone hold their foot on the brake pedal to keep the yoke from turning.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

A good impact wrench will usually break the nut loose. I have done dozens of rear end pinion removals and have not run into one that could not be broken loose with an impact.

If you are installing a new crush sleeve than you will need a tool to hold the pinion. Otherwise just replacing the seal should not be a very big job.

Be sure to check the vent tube as they do plug up and the pressure will force fluid out of the rear end.

Jim

[gmc67swb]

Mine was an ''1 1/8. I had my wife stand on the brake and I used a half inch drive rachet and a cheater pipe. Now there is a special tool to drive the seal in properly. I didn't use one and it turned out fine. I found out a few years later (about the tool)when I had the gears and carrier swapped by a shop.

Just a note..my rear end is a Dana..my pinion is shimmed and does not use a crush sleeve. Not sure if they're all like that. I believe the torque is around 200 ft/lbs.

[Edmond]

Thanks for all the ideas guys!!

Cya,
Edmond

[badpeanut]

I've done three of these myself. StingRay's advise on counting the turns and using non-hardening sealer are good. I also mark the nut position with paint to insure I don't miscount. I did mine with only a 1/2" drive breaker bar, appropriate size socket, floor jack (jack on the breaker bar for loosening and tightening), and piece of wood with a clearance hole drilled in the center (for driving the seal in). I set the parking brake and block the rear wheels.

[LONGHAIR]

gmc67swb, is right. This should be a Dana axle and it does not have a crush sleeve. You don't need to do all of that counting, it is strictly a torque thing.

[nu2-72]

There you go Edmond. Could not have helped any more myself. I should have the Max about broke in by the time you get here. Good luck buddy.

[Edmond]

The Axle is not a Dana by the way, but an Eaton. (HO52)

Kevin, hope to see you in august my friend. Can't wait to see the shop you've built.

Cya,
Edmond