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Old 12-04-2004, 11:43 PM   #1
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Parts checklist for 5-8 install?

Ok, Im sure I have all the proper tools for the flipkit /w the 2in shackles for the rear. But im unsure of what im gonna need for the spindles up front. All my parts are ordered (thank you thanksgiving bonus!) and they should arrive next week. So I wanna get this badboy LOW asap. any special tools I need to get ahold of for the front for spindles?
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Old 12-05-2004, 12:40 AM   #2
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Try a Ford tool (good size hammer) to smack those ball joints so that they pop apart. Take the front end and jack it up and support it with a good set of stands, loosen the upper and lower ball joint bolts (DO NOT take the nuts clear off YET). Smack the spindle knuckle on each end a couple times and the spring will do the hard work for you and pop the tapered bolts out of the spindle, the steering joints come apart in a similar fashion, but you will have to tap them on the top of the nut head. Lower the truck onto a block or a heavy board, and take the nuts off of the ball joints. Now jack up the truck and the front A frame will seperate. The springs can be reinstalled without compressors and the front can be re-assembled easily, just use the trucks weight to do the work.. REMEMBER always put stands under the truck for safety.
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Old 12-05-2004, 12:54 AM   #3
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Which spindles/springs are you installing in the front? When I did my spindles/springs, it was really easy, the rear was even easier.
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Old 12-05-2004, 02:02 AM   #4
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thanks pieces! thats exactly what I needed.

Tim- Im going western chassis 2.5" spindles since I didnt wanna grind the DJM ones. Im cutting 1/2 a coil off my belltech springs to get it down to 5" in the front. I got a western chassis c-notch and flip kit for the rear also shock extenders with some doesch tech shocks for the rear. Ill be keeping my KYB's for the front. I just grinded my bumpstops completely off. This is the second truck ive done that for, so it only took me an hour and a BIG@SS pryarm It also gave me an excuse to rotate my tires.

Im hoping for a Thursday install if its here by then.

Ill post lots of sittin pretty pics.
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Old 12-05-2004, 03:50 PM   #5
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I thought you were going to run 17's? If so, why NOT get the DJM Spindles? Also, no need to cut your bumpstops ALL the way down. On mine, I just cut them so they're square and have no point on them, and they're plenty short.
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Old 12-05-2004, 03:53 PM   #6
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No, Im notching the frame so the bumpstop had to go. One last question. Easiest way to move the axle, unbolt half the leaf and move the axle or unbolt the leafs all the way and move them?

And im gonna be running 18's/20's, but for the time being im gonna run my 15's.
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Old 12-05-2004, 04:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0lf-
No, Im notching the frame so the bumpstop had to go. One last question. Easiest way to move the axle, unbolt half the leaf and move the axle or unbolt the leafs all the way and move them?

And im gonna be running 18's/20's, but for the time being im gonna run my 15's.
My bad, I thought you mean the front's. Yeah, my rear bumpstop's/brackets are LONG gone.
IMHO, the easiest way was to unbolt the entire leaf spring.
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Old 12-05-2004, 04:42 PM   #8
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Cool. I need to regrease everything back there anyhow. With this cold weather its being quite squeaky
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Old 12-06-2004, 06:35 PM   #9
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OK!!! WOOOOO!!! MY PARTS CAME EARLY!!!!

Gonna try to get the front down tonight. and the rear down tommorrow. Any special tools im gonna need for the front? How do i get the disc brake stuff off? thats the only part im questioning?
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Old 12-06-2004, 06:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
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How do i get the disc brake stuff off? thats the only part im questioning?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it's like a 19 or 21mm Deep Socket, for the spindle nut? Wished I was closer, I'd help ya out
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Old 12-06-2004, 07:31 PM   #11
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Unbolt&remove caliper&pop the grease cap off, remove the cotter(sp?) pin and you should be able to unscrew the nut even without a socket, it should not be very tight. It may have seized in which case you need the socket, i don't remember the size. Then just pull the disc out.
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Old 12-06-2004, 08:23 PM   #12
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A torch is the easiest way to remove the rear u-bolts, they are real tight and normally rusty. You might also encounter trouble with the shackle bolts if you drop the leaf springs loose or you might get lucky and they will come out. I have had the bolts sieze up in the sleeve inside the rubber spring bushing. The bolts are hardened so a sawzall won't like them. Good luck.
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Old 12-07-2004, 12:04 AM   #13
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The disc brakes calipers are held on with two long pins that are threaded into the back of the units. You will need a big allen head wrench or socket wrench to get these off. I would but the socket and use a ratchet to take them off, it makes it easier. When you put them back on, I would coat them with anti-seize to make them thread in easier. I agree with the use of a torch for the rear spring bolts, unless you have soaked them really well with penetrating oil for the last week. You will also have to notch the cross member piece in the bed to get clearance for the shackle swing. Sign onto the Bell Tech website and down load their install instructions for a lowering kit. They have it down to a science.

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Old 12-07-2004, 03:00 AM   #14
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WELP, the sprindles that were marked GM, WERE INFACT LOWERING SPINDLES! Sucks that I had to get one side on to figure this out. So im gonna have some fun with the coils tonight and see what I can do. Looks like ill be returning some spindles. Jeez, dont I feel dumb. I put em side by side with the WC parts and the rod is in the exact same spot.

That means I have 2.5" spindles already on there. Im thinking chopping off a loop on the spring will take it down another 1.5", then my flip in the rear wont look so massive. Jeez. Welp, back to the garage
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Old 12-07-2004, 11:58 AM   #15
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I guess that there are some ways to kill anything. The guys at Bell Tech have a 3" spindle and then they offer a spring with a 1" drop to boot. That will put your front into the weeds. I personally don't like chopping springs, because you still have the same spring rate, but with fewer coils. This makes for a lousey ride, but it will help you mix that milkshake quicker. My truck has the 3" spindles and then I put the 1" drop coil on, it put me too low for my taste, so I put a 3/8" spacer back under it. The ride is good and I can still do 100 MPH plus on the highway without tearing my a$$ off.
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Old 12-07-2004, 12:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piecesparts
My truck has the 3" spindles and then I put the 1" drop coil on, it put me too low for my taste
I have a 3" spindle, and a 2" drop spring, and I'm STILL not as low as all the other C10's running around out here.
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Old 12-07-2004, 01:41 PM   #17
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Tim, im about as low as you are now. With my 255/60/15's Im almost tucking tire up front, I have about an inch gap after I took off a coil. When the springs settle a bit, id bet it goes down more. Now I have to get it aligned. I have about 4 inches under the LCA's.

Now the tough part. Getting this dang bed off. The hidden hitch aint helping to get to those bolts any easier.
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Old 12-07-2004, 04:16 PM   #18
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Good luck on alignment.
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